I would think it is nearly impossible to break the bond between the cork and the blank without destroying the grip.
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Looks cool!! I like it!!
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It is a block of eva or cork people somehow use for doing yoga (don't ask me how) . I've used the cork blocks some but it is heavier than regular cork. The eva blocks are usually in pastel colors. I'm not sure how well it would work for grips, it was just a thought.
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What about using a pink yoga block. I did a google search and found plenty from under $15. I've also seen them, at least in purple, at the big box sporting goods stores.
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I was thinking about this the other day. Sure would make sliding into your rod organizer easier.
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I've used both Thompson's and U-40 and I prefer the U-40.
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I've been following these threads that discuss the UV Krylon fixative and CP to resist fading. I am using Swamplands decal media and have not experienced any fading after a year. Before that I used clear Testors waterslide paper over a painted surface with no fading. Doesn't most of the finishes claim to be UV protective so why bother with UV protective fixative? I am using a can of Krylon Acr
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When this happened to me it was on my second and final coat of finish so air escaping the threads would not be an issue. I am in south Alabama so humidity is crazy here in the summer. Also, I didn't use a tack cloth nor was CP used. I used an oil-less air compressor to lightly blow off the wraps.
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I had the exact same issue a couple of months ago right after all the discussion about humidity affects on finish. I applied my second coat of Threadmaster to the rod with my garage open and it was raining outside. The temperature was stable inside and outside of the garage to make sure nothing condensed on the surface. After I finished applying I closed up the garage and the finish looked goo
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I have used both EVA and composite on my bass rods and l believe the cork is much more durable as far as tears and cuts go. Haven't used rubber yet but that seems like it would work well.
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That's cool!! I'll have to bookmark that.
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I have a XP3 964 blank to start next. Just finished the 7'6" 904 XP3 and it is awesome!!
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I would spray it with acrylic clear, let it dry and apply the label. I've tried CP on decals but get just as good if not better results without it. I haven't used the type of label you are using, instead water-slides and white vinyl.
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I'm kind of thinking out loud here but what about this. If you took piece of scrap blank with an ID that would fit the area of the blank where you want the reel seat placed. Epoxy it to the blank and order the properly sized Minima reel seat to fit. Make the scrap piece long enough to go under the threaded barrel also. I rebuild an old Shimano Crucial casting rod with an exposed trigger that
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I've been using Gimp 2 for a couple of months. It's free and there are lots of tutorials on youtube and such. I've been pretty happy with it so far.
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I just don't see the reason for elevating it. Say your finishing a 45 degree ramp on the turner with the rod elevated at 45 degrees. The top surface is now horizonal and the bottom surface is vertical pulling the finish towards your threads on your reel seat. Now with the same rod set level on the turner the top surface is 45 degrees down pulling the finish towards the tip and the bottom surfa
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I've done a few but I never elevate the rod, I just leave it level.
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Anyone have pictures?
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You can also get microballons from US Composites (who also sells the expanding foam for CF grips).
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Lance is a great guy to deal with. I've learned a great deal in just a few short conversations while ordering. His shipping rates are great!!
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Are you looking for media or someone to make the decals? Have you tried texascraft.com? If you haven't tried the waterproof self-adhesive vinyl I would give it a shot. No more water-slides for me.
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Jay Hunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I vote for the XP3 BB1 also. My guys love them. +1 for the BB1. I built one 7'3" for frogging but I've used it more for pitchin' Brush Hogs, etc. I finishing my second one tonight.
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One advantage is they are lighter which helps to balance the rod better. Lighter also increases sensitivity. They do not hang up on you other rods as bad either in storage. There are more advantages that others will elaborate on. To lay them out, do a static guide placement test that you can find in the library here.
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Mike, Congratulations on the win. Thumbs up. I have stripped and rebuilt a couple of rods with micros for a side by side comparison and it is unbelievable how it has changed the sensitivity and balance of these rods.
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Thanks guys. Glad I ask. All of my rods so far have been for myself or friends and family but none have broken yet (knock on wood). I've always filed the backside of the foot to eliminate any burs that may penetrate the surface of the blank.
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Okay, seeing the post and photos on rods breaking and the cork being too tight got me thinking. Can a guide wrap be too tight with the standard size A threads? The ones I have built have been pretty tight and I broke thread a couple of times on my first couple of rods until I got the hang of it. I just seems to me the thread would break first before it could damage the blank.
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I just completed my first spiral on a frog rod this week and tested it this past weekend. I have another rod conventionally wrap with very similar specs. Casting distance is identical. I was skeptical but for a tip up application I really love it. I don't notice any difference while fishing it.
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I buy mine at Ace Hardware in various sizes.
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Did you use color preserver or NCP thread? I didn't notice in your original post.
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Steven, Are you coating your grips with anything special? I turned a set of split grip yesterday. I think I'll try it on a person rod I'm working on. Thanks, Scott
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