Building on the spine is to rod builders what pins and clips or oar locks is to white water boaters. I built on the spine when I first started building rods now 30 years later. I don't worry about it and look for the straightest axis. I can't tell the difference between a rod built on the spine and one built on the axis. Any more i have a hard time even finding the spine on most rods and some h
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Clemens' books are hard to beat. I have done several wraps from Billy Vivona's book his explanation on laying out the wrap is easy to understand and the wraps really look good.
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Mathew Don't worry about the spine. That book is a good book and has a lot of good information in it. The spine was written about fiberglass blanks that had a prominent spine and in certain applications it probably was good information. With today's modern graphite and manufacturing many time you can find the spine or you may feel several different spines. If you want to build on it fine if
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I have no problem filing or grinding the side of the foot on larger guides it makes for a lot smoother transition from the guide to the blank.
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All wraps and buttwraps particularly trap air. Put the first coat on thindon't mess with it just let it turn that will seal the wrap. The thin coat will let out any bubbles that form then put on a second coat. all you are doing when messing with the finish after you apply it is causing problems.
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Bill That's certifiable. There is a difference.
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Usually the fighting butt epoxies into the bottom of the reel seat and the blank butts up against it. The fighting butt will give you something to grip with your other hand. It usually is used to place against the body and gives you a fulcrum to fight the fish with while reeling and palming the reel with the off hand. I think for loss of grip you would be better off with a larger grip as John
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You may be putting on too much. My drier turns at 7-8 rpm and the epoxy levels out nicely.
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It takes a little practice to get your wrap the proper distance up the foot so when you throw your loop it will pack against the wrap. Done right They look great. I use them all the time on my fly rods because I like the way they finish the wrap. Don't really need them for the strength but it doesn't hurt and they really look nice when done.
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As Herb says. The extension is designed to epoxy inside the reel seat and butt the blank up against it.If the threads in the adapter are open to the inside you will need to put a piece of tape over it to keep epoxy out of the threads. You do want to rough surface up a little to give it some tooth for the epoxy.
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I don;t know about prices but there are several of the sponsors on the left carry fuji guides. I have done business with anglers workshop and mudhole.
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If you are casting properly there is no slack in the line until you introduce it as you are laying the line down on the water in order to affect the float time of the fly. ie. when casting down stream just before fly contacts water i will give a side to side flick to the rod to put a wave i the line for a longer float.
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Does Batson offer a 6 pc?
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Craig As Herb said your wraps aren't tight enough and the guide probably scored the blank. As far as using CP for a finish you can if you want. Finish primarily protects the thread from abrasion and there is some UV protection also. If the guide is not wrapped tight enough. It will eventually start to move regardless of the type or amount of finish. hopefully Lamiglas will be able to help y
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I don't know that Gudebrod was any better than the threads now available. At one time it was about the only thread available. All manufacturers and builders used it. It was readily available and good quality. Now that they have gone out of business you still have a demand for it primarily for color match. It is very dificult to get an exact color match from one manufaturers line to another.
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I find that on occasion my epoxy will remain tacky for a day or two after application. It seems to be just a surface tackiness. At other times it cures in about 12 hours and no tack. It might be humidity. I used to mix in the cup measuring by sight as you do, now I use syringes. It doesn't seem to make any difference. I just mix with a plastic stick for stirring until the mix clears up. Prob
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As the above posters have said the best way to drill a handle is with a lathe. If you don't have the lathe or chuck to use a lathe, A drill press will work but , having the table level is not going to insure you will have a straight hole the drill bit must be square to the table. Most drill press table are adjustable so you can square them up to the bit.
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You can put any weight line you want on that reel. You may be able to put a little more backing on the reel with the lighter weight lines.
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I use a toothpick wedged under the ring so it is held upright. This also keeps th eepoxy out so the ring is free once I remove the toothpick.
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I don't think there is any inexpensive aluminum tubing. I use 160or 220lb pvc it is thin wall compared to schedule 40 and lightweight and easy to cut.
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The purpose of the NGC is to tame the line coming off a spinning reel. The line on a float rod or center pin comes off in a more or less straight line. I'm not sure what you would accomplish by using the NGC.
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I was told by one of the people on the counter at angler's workshop that talon builds the blanks for angler's workshop.
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You just set your guides as if it is a standard build then rotate the guides to the bottom side. You may want to add a guide at the 90degree position when making the transitionfrom top to bottom.
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Maryann If you are looking for a blank The Batson IST 1024F is great. I built one last winter as a spinning rod used it this august on the Santiam and Deschutes (Macks Canyon). It work so well with plugs and spinners I am building another this winter as a casting rod. Can't have to many rods rigged when steelheading.
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Angler's Workshop lists 15 to 20 different types of xmg 50 blanks. Which do you want?
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Batson IST 1024F works really well drifting plugs.
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Yes, most people start out applying finish by hand. You will need to block out a 4 hour or so window that you can be near the rod. once the finish is on you will need to turn the rod 180degrees every 5 minutes or so for about a 1/2 hour then you can go to 10 min interval for awhile eventually you will be able to work out to a 20 min or so interval. Keep the container of unapplied epoxy near a
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Try anglers workshop. They are having a Lamiglas closeout. I don't know if that blank is listed. I'm sure they would walk across the parking lot if they needed one for you and might give you the closeout price. Bruce Johnstone
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Frank Merrick Tackle is a wholesale distributor. They sell only to retail businesses. You can buy there products from their retailers. They have sev eral #'s and an email that you can communicate with them and find a retailer near you or mail order.
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Permagloss is the way to go. Do it the way Bill says. Let the paint dry for 2 or 3 days or more if possible. One coat of permagloss and be fast. If you're slow or go back you'll ruin the paint. The permagloss softens the paint within seconds of going on. If you don't touch it the paint and permagloss will set up and it will look good.
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