Building my first 10 wt, with a 4" spey type grip below the reel seat. The grip uses a threaded rod extension - cork glues on to long shaft part, and threaded end screws in to threaded insert that is glued in to bottom of reel seat.

My question is this - the thread adapter that glues in the bottom of the reel seat is about an inch long give or take (don't have it here to measure). It's diameter is too big to go inside the bottom of the rod blank, which I would like, so is it OK to glue the seat so the blank is up a little higher in it, and then install the threaded adapter in the bottom of the seat? Or will it not hold up?

Thanks!

Thanks - Marc

Keep it simple - that's all I can handle!

Most of the adapters that go into the reel seat area are not even 1" long. In my opinion adhering the adapter to only the reel seat will be very weak for applying much leverage!

I have used two different methods to correct this issue. #1 turn the insert portion smaller to fit inside the blank. Of course this requires a lathe. #2 add and extension to the adapter to fit inside the blank. This can be done two ways, if the adapter is bored and threaded clear thru, insert a bolt in from the blank side, leaving room for the butt screw. The bolt can be shimmed with reel seat shims or a drilled out wood dowel. If the adapter is not bored clear thru, drill it out yourself and use a piece of metal rod, and proceed as previous. Ideally you need to go at least a couple of inches into the blank.

Do you need that 4" handle to come off the rod ??
If the rod is long enough you can put the butt handle directly onto the blank
OR
Find a scrap piece of blank that fits the butt of the blank and build the handle on it

Bill - willierods.com

I have done that many times with both SH rods and Spey.
I use the REC system that fits into the reel seat 1/2"

I use West System epoxy and you cannot remove the insert even with a torch and water-pump pliers.
So that is not the issue. On the Spey rod - when you cast off the line-hand shoulder it is putting reverse pressure on the threads and it unwinds.
Structurally it is more than adequate - depending on epoxy used.
Herb

As Herb says. The extension is designed to epoxy inside the reel seat and butt the blank up against it.If the threads in the adapter are open to the inside you will need to put a piece of tape over it to keep epoxy out of the threads. You do want to rough surface up a little to give it some tooth for the epoxy.

According to my post
Do whatever you want Since ya don't want to answer my question

Bill - willierods.com

I do need the extension beyond the blank. Sounds like I can build it and butt the extension up to the end of the blank. I'll make sure to get a good bond. I usually use Flex Coat glue, but I am thinking Rod Bond may be a better choice here.

Thanks to all!

Thanks - Marc

Keep it simple - that's all I can handle!

mark,
A little hint:
Insert the plug into the seat after the seat installed and cured on the arbor. Don't try to install the plug first - you will cause an air lock and not be able to slide the seat onto the arbor.
Hint #2 - after inserting the plug into the seat lock it in place with some tape until cured. Otherwise the plug will migrate out because of air back-pressure.
Herb

Thanks Herb!

Herb,
Great tip!
Also, let me add that the same might apply to a butt cap unless there is a way for the trapped air to escape.
One solution on a "Soft" cap is to use a push pin to make a tiny hole in the end of the cap to releave the pressure

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Mark, I've also done as Herb has suggested and had no problems with it.