Thanks Ken and Dave for your responses . A med.hvy.fast action in a7 1/2 foot length is the way to go just wanted to make sure there wasn’t a reason for something else. A spinner rig is sort of a glorified Eriedeary,an egg sinker ahead of a spinner ,beads and a hook.more of a finesse presentation?? The question was for my brother in law. He laughed and said he’s been going up there for 25 years
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Maybe I have the terminology wrong.i will try to explain it a little better.say the wind is blowing from East to west you cast north or south,when your lure hits the water you start to count when you count say to five(that’s an arbitrary number)you then close your bail or stop your line from coming off the reel. Then your lure or in this case spinner rig will swing upwind of a drifting boat.The i
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I’m looking for suggestions on what length,power and action if not specific blanks for fishing spinner rigs on Lake Erie. The info I have is the lure weight starts at 1/2oz. The rod will be used to cast spinner rigs using ,I think they call it fishing the swing method where you cast at aright angle to the boat on a drift. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
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my brother needs a spinning rod to cast a leach on a slipbobber rig to suspended walleye on a resticted resevoir,no boats allowed.he says the fish are about 13 feet deep in the middle of the lake. he is now using an old glass flyrod(dont know what WT.) he got at a yard sale with a spinning reel.he says that rig cast fairly well but would like to cast farther.he also has trouble getting a good hoo
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hey thanks for the help guys,just to make sure my math is right, how does this sound?spool dia,1.675'' x 27 = 45.225'' from reel spool face to choker guide.this leaves18.875'' from the choker to the tip. hey Tom,using 8 guides how many guides from the choker to the tip do you use ?say choker + ? then the tiptop. thanks again scott
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i am building a spinning rod on a st.croix 6'3" med.power ex-fast action blank. my problem is how many guides to use,6 guides dont seem like enough and 7 seems like too many! i used the 27x meathod for placement of the intersect guide.using 6 OR 7 guides requires moving the intersect guide a good bit using static guide placement.will that matter? does anyone have any experiance with this b
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A friend wants a rod with a university of North Carolina theme.What color of blue should i use?What would be some good trim colors? i am going to use a N.C.decal from mudhole,what would be a good color to put the decal over so it stands out?Maybe not put over thread and just use the dark blank for contrast?
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thanks for your help gentlemen,it seems ncp with 2 coats of color preserver is the way to go.Ron my e-mail is now unhiden ,if you dont mind i would love to see a picture of the rod you mentioned.Thanks again guys. Scott Donley
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I am going to build a rod with ohio state colors, scarlet and grey.I have read on this forum that white will turn translucent when you apply finish and a dark blank will make the white not be as white as it could have been if one would have first painted or otherwise colored the area where the white thead is used.I have never used white or grey.My question is,will grey thread act like white,bein
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hi brian, also check out these handle kits from janns netcraft,cat #215-106 and 215-107.they are on the lines as the ones Eric suggested.I love these .they are very comfortable. scott
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hi john, an induction motor does not have brushes.does the motor make a humming noise when you turn it on?if it doesn't you may not be getting power to the motor.regardless of what a voltage sniffer tells you.it may be that power is going to the motor but the circuit is not being completed because of a faulty switch or an open wire.did you try to help it start by spinning the chuck
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hi all, is it ok to use metallic thread for the entire guide wrap? i'm building a 6.5''med.power spin rod with single foot guides.I think it would look good with metallic blue guide wraps with metallic gold trim.I normaly decrease my thread tension when working with metallics to keep it from fraying.am i going to run into trouble?I use gudebrod thread.
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hi Tom, When you say reel spool face,exactly where on the spool are you measuring from?Or maybe better said,what is the reel spool face? thanks in advance,Scott
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i wonder if anyone knows of an ugly-stick that actually failed ? I use an old ugly-stick flippin rod to speed troll huge crank baits for musky for over 20 yrs..It is stiff enough not to double over from the drag of the bait at 5 or 6 mph.I have had high speed hang ups or snags that would snap lesser cheap rods(drag setting is critical when using this method).been there done that. BUT it is like a
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Jay Hunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Guys , this thread is really sparking my interest. > I remember a little toy we used to get , I think , > in a cereal box. It was a little plastic frog man. > You put Backing Soda somewhere inside this little > man, maybe inside his scuba tank ,stick him under > water and the gas pressure would allo
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hey scott, i also use Tennessee grips allot.But like you said the black tape looks more like a bad repair,not to mention the sticky hands from the tape on a hot day.I just recently bought some heat shrink grip material from mud hole. it worked great.and simple to use.just slide over your rings and hit it with a hair dryer.It definitely made the handle feel much bigger in diameter
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Sometime back in the early 80's,I cant remember the exact year,I was looking at a cabelas catalog and saw they had rod making kits for sale!I never thought about building a rod before and thought that it would be cool to catch fish on a rod I built myself.So I purchased one of their kits, i loved it.I was hooked,soon i was building rods for friends and family at cost,many were gifts.I found ot
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You are probably right Jim,at some point the return on your efort may just not be worth it when you know what results you can expect from another coat of finish, provided you keep the bugs and camels out of it ! Them gosh darn old camels anyway. Just cant trust em. thanks for your response,and thanks again Lou.
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Thanks Lou,that worked out pretty well.After i sanded out the ruff parts and cleaned off the dust i was surprised at how well it looked before i even put on more finish.I wonder if you could keep going with finer sandpaper say 800 then 1200 or 2000 wet sand maybe?Do you think it would polish up to where you wouldent need to use more finish? Im sure someone has tried that. Thanks again L
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a moth got in to my finish as it was drying and made a mess of things,i tried to just apply another coat of finish and made it even worse! it was on the butt end right over the decal i put on.The finish is lumpy and bumpy. i used TM lite finish. Question is,can i fix this?can i sand the finish back smooth and recoat? if so,what grit should i use? Thanks in advance,i know someone will come up
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I just purchased a g.loomis blank,it came with a decal.what kind of decal is it?a water slide or a peel-n -stick?I went to the decal connection site and read how to apply them.this will be my first attempt at using a decal.I would hate to mess it up by putting a sticker in water. I'm sure i will find another way to make a mess of it! LOL Any helpfull tips other than what i read? Thanks
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Thank you all for the info ,this forum is great! I have allready learned a great deal just by reading a bunch of post,and linking over to the sponers web sites.I got answers to questions I didn't know to ask! Thanks again,im sure I will be back with some more questions before its all over. Scott
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Hi all, This is my first post.I have built a few rods for my own use back in the day(25 yrs.ago)not works of art like some of the rods I have seen in your photo gallery,but very functional fishing tools none the less and have served me well over the years.Its been a long time since I have built a rod,and should be considerd a rookie at best.I am going to put a MH spinning rod togethe
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