I have some Rainshadow blanks and I wanted to get some opinions as to what type of Rod's they would be best suited for. I have the following RX 7 SW967 RX 6 RCLB70L RX 6 RCLB70XL I've had these for a while and the bug has bitten me to build them now after several years of them sitting around gathering dust!!! Thanks in advance for any input. Tommy
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Thanks... Funny I just stumbled onto their site by looking at his photos in his gallery.... Checking it out now....
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Does anyone carry the composite foam already in blocks in the 8# density? Looking to finally do my Carbon grip but don't want to make the molds and pour it... rather buy it and shape it. I did check a few vendors on the left but couldn't find it other than the materials to pour it. Thanks
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Once you have sanded the finish down on a Butt or Guide wrap finish. What do you use to clean it up before re-applying the next coat? In this case it is Diamondite. Not sure if what you use varies based on the type of finish your using but I'm guessing it could.
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Thanks Tom... Looking at it under magnification that appears to be the case. As a novice at this I thought it looked pretty good. The look actually isn't that bad not what I wanted but the rod is for my 6 year old son and has a Camo theme.... The screwup on my part actually gives the guide wraps a breakup sort of look... My son likes it so thats all that matters for now. Once I get better a
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I'm having issues with CP's. I have used the Old Gudebrod, Now I have tried Diamondite. I did my underwraps and put on 1 coat of Diamondite this time the mounted my guides and wrapped them. Did a second coat of diamondite over everything. I followed this with the Diamondite finish. I really really liked this finish no bubbles long pot life. levels easire then flex coat I had been using... anyway
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Actually using a waxing pad type applicator. I may get some cheese cloth for a recoat. Based on your recommendation from an earlier post. If I do the cheese cloth for the next coat well saturated should that improve the look you think or am I going to have issues since I didn't usse perhaps a better applicator first? Also if I wait 2-3 hours so I can get the cheese cloth any issues with the 2nd/
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OK.. I finally sanded off all the old epoxy where the guides were. It left the blank dull in those areas. I applied one goat of PG and it looks pretty good but those areas are still dull. Is this normal? Should I skuff the entire blank to make it look even or will this diminish after a couple more coats of PG? If I color the PG would that help? Thanks Tommy
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Thanks guy's... for those who are cutting the tag before pulling it completly through how many wraps ovr the pull thread are you acustom to doing? I've tried but seems the 5-6 wraps I'm doing isn't enough. What's your experience with that? Gonna get a set of those Cuticle clippers tomorrow ;)
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I'm having trouble getting a clean cut when I pull the thread through with my pull string. I am using a Exacto knife. I have a New blade in it but when I lay the blade on the thread and pull it down against it I either get the angle wrong and fuzz the thread underneath or the thread I'm intending to cut. Is this normal? Is ther a certain # of wraps that one should do over the pull thread before
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OK... I read quite a bit before asking this and tried several methods folks have used in the past. 1. Heating it (Didn't work for me ) 2. Credit card or other means of scraping it. (Didn't work for me) 3. GooGone seemed to clean the area nicely but again didn't soften or help with the old Epoxy. Is it possible to sand this down with fine grit wetsand perhaps and refinish the rod with Permag
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Thanks Jay....
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Thanks Guy's... Jay are you suggesting I rough up both the inside of the Reel seat and the rod at the position of the reel seat? If so what grit should be used for this? Tommy
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Never had the issue of a reel seat fitting exactly where I wanted it to without having to build it up with tape or an Arbor of sorts. On the blank I am currently working on the reel seat fits perfectly right where I need it. Is it OK to glue it in place directly to the blank? Are there any issues to be concerned with in doing that? I know plenty of other items get glued to the blank but didn't kn
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I'm Using the Gudebrod. Didn't fles the rod I don't think... I never even took it off the Lathe.... I'm using a embroidery thread 40wt Sulky for the most part but ther is one other in there and I forget the name..... I'm guessing I goofed somewhere... Tom... Nope not thinned at all. I asked that one a while back and followed your advice :) Don't really understand it but I'm gonna strip it
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The blank is black! I thought I packed th threads closely... Perhaps not. I guess your indicating if the threads have spaces it is the blank I'm seeing and perhaps not the Thread getting dark! I'll see if I can ge a pic!
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I am working on a Copper and black wrap. I applied 2 coats of Gudebrod CP to the Butt wrap and let it sit for a couple of days. I then applied CP to the guide underwraps and let it sit for about 6 hours. When I put the epoxy on the underwraps the Black thread bled onto the copper turning it black. I'm guessing I didn't wait long enough on the underwraps CP to dry? I then decided to try the Butt w
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I sanded down a couple of problem areas and reapplied the epoxy.. I'd say it is about 95% now... I used a lighter instead of the Hair dryer on one section and the Hair dryer on another. Honestly the results of the bubbles on the Hair dryer are much better than the lighter. I was very worried about the lighter so it may just be me. I did however try and leave the epoxy to do it's thing this time
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Hey Anthony... Can I get that instruction page as well? Having very similiar issues ;)
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Well Raymond under magnification I see the Hair dryer blew some fuzz on there :) I typically leave it on warm/low. After a few seconds you can see the epoxy start to flow. Once that happens I back off let it turn and check it again in a couple of minutes. If all looks well I leave it if not I may add a little epoxy and repeat the heat. Randy, Mine sounds as you described... I have a few
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OK! Interesting.. Never thought about that... Now to the sanding part... Since this is Marbled what do I sand with? Once sanded I saw a thread talking about using painters tape to remove dust and nothing else. Is that what I need to do? What grit is recommended? Will this ruin the marbled area? Is 24 hours enough or does it need longer? Under normal circumstances how long do you "need&
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I am using Flex Coat High Build on a rod I'm doing and ran into an issue. The first thin coats went on looking really good. I did a Marbled area to put a plate seat on and then went to apply the 2nd coat. I went thin but coated everything fairly evenly. I then took a hair dryer and heated it slightly to make it flow. It looked good but as it started to become more tacky I noticed lots of area
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Mike... I like that idea.. One question though. How do you get the grip over the Butt? I'd think this to be difficult but maybe not?
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Thanks All for the info... Sorry Scott if it was a redundat ?. I actually spent about an hour reading other Epoxy related threads based on a search for "epoxy moving" Didn't see the thread you mentioned though. Sometimes I can be impatient so I decided to ask :)
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I have split grips on a rod I'm doing. I am having issues of the epoxy between the grips creeping at the ends near the EVA . I have the rod level and am using a BBQ Rotissere to turn it. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? The epoxy seems level everywhere but at the ends. I was thinking maybe rotating to fast? If not any ides how I can stop this? I'd like to keep the epoxy from drying on the grips?
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I have a bottle of this. It seems to be very thick? I have put it on and it is seems lumpy looking when going on. It dries clears and you can't really tell it is there once dried. Is this normal? By lumpy I mean when applying it I am holding the brush against the thread and rolling the rod. Once done what was smooth thread prior to the application of CP is not visiably rough/bumpy/lumpy looking
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Thanks for the advice.. I enjoyed the book so reading it again won't be an issue ;) I have looked at the Web page and Yes that helps a lot... I am finishing a rod now and once it is done I'm gonna give this a go.. I did notice that you only have tape on one end? On the end with no tape do you simply follow the pattern? Is any tie off required on that end? Or do you wrap over it to match the o
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I read Billy's book. As a newbie and one not crazy about reading... .It was a very easy read! It helped me a lot with the language and overall getting a better grip on some of the requirements for spacing and such. All in All a very good book!!! I do have a question about starting a decorative wrap. In the book it stated you "could" wrap these 1 thread at a time. Understand this ta
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Thanks Guy's..... Now that I have that straight. Here is the next issue. I have a Loomis 1266 I'm setting up as a spinning rod. My intention is to use the New Guide Concept system. I mounted the reel seat and selected the reel I want on the rod and measured the spool lip (47mm) I then take the 47mm x 27 = 1269. Is that 1269mm? If so that is like 49.9 inches. So I used 50 inches to make it
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I have some Fuji SVOG Guides I picked up to use for the New Guide Concept. I read the article and for the Spinning rod I am building basically a M/H rod it indicated the "Choker guide" might be an 8 - 10. I got out what was call and labeled a 10. Looked a little small. I decided to measure it with my Calipers. It measures I.D 7 and O.D 10 of inner ring. Is this the correct way to meas
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