I have split grips on a rod I'm doing. I am having issues of the epoxy between the grips creeping at the ends near the EVA . I have the rod level and am using a BBQ Rotissere to turn it. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? The epoxy seems level everywhere but at the ends. I was thinking maybe rotating to fast? If not any ides how I can stop this? I'd like to keep the epoxy from drying on the grips?

Are the ends of the finish bigger? smaller?

What I do on split grips is dont even take the 1st coat up to the grip, just get fairly near it. Then on the last coat take that coat all the way, but keep it THIN where the finish doesn't have enough body to do much moving. And DONT HEAT the finish, anywhere near the grips, the thinner the finish the more it will move on you. Doing the split LAST when the finish has started to "set up" and it's thicker also helps.

DR

Not sure but do you think that you might be causing a sliding board effect with the grip end being built lower and the finish slides down to the lowest point?
Just an idea.

I don't do split grips much but have one to do soon. I did not think that this would be a problem. I was going to do a butt wrap between the split grips and use winding checks too. Wouldn't using a winding check at both ends solve the creeping of the finish?

Use a winding check at either end of the split. It was talked about last week, search "finish creep" here is a pic the original poster
[www.rodbuilding.org]

a winding check will do the trick
if you don't want a winding check, following DRs instructions will do the trick as well

something that I've done on some of mine, is ramp the epoxy up on the cork (or foam) to provide a smooth transition..in other words, intentional creep

"Let the finish "creep" all it wants. Wait until the stuff is just starting to gel a bit and then take a rag wetted with alcohol and touch the corner to the grip at a point where you want a nice, crisp edge. Hold the alcohol soaked rag corner right there and rotate the rod 360 degrees.

The resuilt is a crisp, even epoxy winding check of sorts right on the front of the grip. If you do this during the proper window of time, the finish will be gelled enough so that it won't creep any further and yet still be soft enough that the alcohol will remove it from any point above where you desire it."

that was posted by Tom Kirkman in another thread about the epoxy getting on the grip

I will sometimes use a rubber O-ring as a winding check, and intentionally build the finish up - in other words, make it creep. When I do this I ensure that the entire ring becomes encapsulated in epoxy. Makes a cool looking, smooth transition from blank to grip. Sounds like exactly what Joshua and Jon (and Tom K) are talking about.

Thanks All for the info... Sorry Scott if it was a redundat ?.
I actually spent about an hour reading other Epoxy related threads based on a search for "epoxy moving"
Didn't see the thread you mentioned though.
Sometimes I can be impatient so I decided to ask :)

Tommy Peace Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Sorry Scott if it was a redundat ?.
> I actually spent about an hour reading other Epoxy
> related threads based on a search for "epoxy
> moving"
> Didn't see the thread you mentioned though.
> Sometimes I can be impatient so I decided to ask
> :)



Don't worry about it, it is only the second time time this subject has come up in the past week. Tiger wraps and the new new concept system have that beat by at least 20 posts each.

A folded coffee filter saturated with alcohol also works very well for removing unwanted finis with a nice crisp edge.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

On my latest project I followed the advice I received and kept the epoxy 3 to 5 thread widths away from the cork while applying finish to the base of a tiger wrap. On the top wrap I just barely let the finish touch the cork and it turned out well. With EVA I would try the coffee filter and alky after the finish starts to firm up.

I usually end up applying finish to the rods after a night in the shop and once on the turners I go to bed so I have not tried Tom's advice yet.

Now if I could just get some help picking out colors.... :)

Want it perfect..... Do your finish trim bands, or decorative work FIRST(prior to mounting grips). Apply finish coats(s) THEN mount your split grip with the butt end coming over the butt of the rod. If you like the look of winding checks, be sure to add them. Takes some additional planning and thought, but the end result is worth it and very clean.

Mike

NERB that types with a bar of Ivory soap in his mouth.

I always do this exactly what MJ said. Look at this example [www.rodbuilding.org]

Anthony Lee

Mike...
I like that idea.. One question though. How do you get the grip over the Butt? I'd think this to be difficult but maybe not?

The rear part of the split is fitted from the butt end. This piece is drilled to butt diameter. It may need a very thin shim on the front end, just behind the finished threadwork. Winding check hides the slight gap. The second check, and section behind the reel seat is fitted as normal.