Never had the issue of a reel seat fitting exactly where I wanted it to without having to build it up with tape or an Arbor of sorts. On the blank I am currently working on the reel seat fits perfectly right where I need it. Is it OK to glue it in place directly to the blank? Are there any issues to be concerned with in doing that? I know plenty of other items get glued to the blank but didn't know if there was an issue with doing so with the reel seat.

Thanks
Tommy

Arbors or drywall tape are ONLY used when "Nirvana" cannot be achieved ... Nirvana IS when it fits perfectly. Glue away, Sir.

Jim is right, direct fit is the best for transfering vibrations ie better sensitivity. Here is one I reamed to fit directly in place. It's rosewood and it worked great.
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Am in the process of building 5 heavy fresh water Striper / Catfish rods. Fugi WBPS 20 seats fits perfectly in the correct position without reaming or build up. The front end requires one layer of of "E" thread for a perfect fit there. Rough up the inside, glue up, and she's ready to go. Don't forget the water break free surface on the blank area. I love it when a seat fits that good. Go for it Tommy !

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

Thanks Guy's...
Jay are you suggesting I rough up both the inside of the Reel seat and the rod at the position of the reel seat?
If so what grit should be used for this?

Tommy

Tommy; Before you glue any seats or grips to the blank you should take a piece of Gray Scotch brite pad ( can be bought at any good Auto Parts Store)and knock the shine off the blank in those areas so the rod bond will better adhere to the blank . It is called a "water break free surface" in other words, water won't bead up on the surface you just scuffed, it will actually "wet" the area. You should also rough up the inside of the seat before gluing it up. I do that with a short 6 - 8 " piece of 1/4 " dia. round rod split about 1/2 " on one end and use a strip of Purple Scotch Brite pad which is a little courser grit than the Gray. Chuck it in a drill and just knock the glaze off the inside of the seat. A piece of med. grit sand paper will also work fine ( don't use sandpaper on the blank). It's a good idea to mask off the areas on the blank so you don't scuff up the finish on the exposed areas of the blank.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/06/2008 02:32PM by Jay Hunt.

Thanks Jay....

there are good arguments on both sides of the "scuff up the blank" debate. i would do some research first.

If you feel you need to do some research on the subject "scuff up the blank" I suggest you go to the Library section at the top of the page and read Surface Preparation by Dr. Ralph O'Quinn.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

i've read good arguments on not scuffing up the blank here on the forum. i don't know who wrote them, and i'm not about to read 6 months of backposts to find out.

i'm not saying one is right and one is wrong. i'm just saying there have been good debates on this in the past.