If you want the longest casting mono, look for a tight-tolerance smooth line, such as Berkley Ironsilk. It is available again. Berkley claims it's the longest casting line on a baitcaster. Other tight-tolerance lines you might want to try are Stren Super Knot, Stren Duratuf, and Berkley Hi-Test. The last two have been discontinued, but can still sometimes be found. Don't expect miracles. I als
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The braid diameter-for-diameter is stronger than mono if you are just talking straight-strength. But it's not so simple - there are different types of line strength, including straight strength, knot strength, shock strength, and abrasion resistance. In the real world, when actually fishing, you'll probably have to tie a knot in your line at some point... monos generally have much better kn
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I know they are all metal, but are the Minima guides one piece like the recoils or do they have a separate metal ring glued in?
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There was a company that made a graphite rod they claimed could be run over with a truck - I think it was Graphite USA. I think the series was DHX. I don't know if they are still around.
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I use a bigger top than my running guides. With 10lb. test or above (0.30mm), I like size 5mm top to get better line payout from the tip when tying or clearing a lure. This is without leader knots. I use 3.5mm - 4.5mm for running guides. I would assume you could go smaller with .28mm mono and down (a typical 8lb. size), as this diameter mono and smaller is processed differently during production
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The benefit of a Tennessee handle is it's lighter weight.
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Line slap would be a problem if it were happening on the cast - it will rob distance. Slack line retrieve is no problem.
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David Dosser quote: Quote...Pflueger makes certain Gander Mt. GSX reels with a metal body. Very good reel for about $10 less than the President. You have to look at them and compare them to find the ones that are made by Pflueger. I think they are the GSX Tournament series. - I forgot about those. They are even better than the President with their all metal construction.
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I think the Daiwa Aird would be one of the lightest in that price range, but it may even be out of that price range. Be careful with the Pflueger President - there are two models - the cheaper one is all plastic - the other is a metal re-enforced body. I recommend the latter.
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He said he did not want a Tennessee handle, so I would say the next lightest would be a small size 16 split-seat. Add cork insert for comfort. Grips - Cork is soft and comfortable, and very light because it is porous (EVA and foam too). A split-grip and no fore-grip will make it even lighter if you find it comfortable enough - the less grip material you have on the rod, the lighter it will be.
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"Feel the bite" sensitivity is primarily stiffness-to-weight ratio. So, a heavier rod could be more sensitive than a lighter rod if it is significantly stiffer. Faster rods tend to be more sensitive, everything else being equal.
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I've been catching Largemouth up to 13lbs. on worms and Senkos in 40' of water for years on a popping rod rated for 1/4 - 1/2oz. lures.
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I use Testors gloss paint marker - black also. Looks and works like a magic marker, but it is paint. I use it to touch up guides and black decals. I apply rod finish directly over it with no problems.
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Snyder Rods "feel the bite" sensitivity test - take two blanks - hold them vertically, one in each hand, slightly above the floor - drop them butt-first onto a solid concrete, terrazzo or similar floor - tile will work but not as well - whichever one has the higher tone wins.
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Fluorocarbon does not have resiliency like monofilament does. Once it is stretched out on the first couple of fishing trips, it does not bounce back to it's original length and looses it's shock strength. It works great the first couple of days, but on subsequent trips many experience breaking problems. There may be a fluorocarbon with resiliency on the market, but expect to pay top dollar for it
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A split-seat would be more sensitive. However, I don't think that sensitivity is a big factor for flipping - you are typically fishing with a short length of line, and a short length of line will tend to be more sensitive. You may also be holding the line which will also boost sensitivity. For a tournament, you just need something sensitive enough to prevent gut-hooking and killing fish. On the o
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I'll admit I don't like the rings and usually use a Batson A16 seat - split with cork in the middle. The rings are typically lighter and more sensitive though. You can also tape the reel on.
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3" cable ties. They make them that small. Swampland has them.
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Hold a flosser against the edge of the wrap. Works when turning by hand also. Cheap and disposable too!
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If it will EVER be used for flipping where you grab the line between reel and first guide, you may want to use a larger guide than a micro to make it easier to do that. I use two larger transition guides for the first two on all my builds, the first guide being anything from an 8 to a 12. On that portion of a casting rod, there will be no noticeable real world effect due to the extra weight. As y
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If you are getting the football shape, I believe it's because of too much finish. Apply less, and/or try a "medium" or even a light-build epoxy.
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I fish down in the Florida Keys on occasion. In the daytime we fish for small Snapper, Grouper, and Sea Trout with the same custom popping rods I make for bass. At night, I'll throw a small 3.5" - 4" live bait out on a balloon for small sharks and tarpon. I use a 25lb. rod and a 5000 size spinning reel. We catch sharks up to 5' long. Every now and then, a big one will hit and spool
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The Castaway 843P popping blank mentioned above would be good. Any popping blank rated up to 1/2 oz. lure and moderate to fast action will match it so closely you won't be able to tell a difference fishing with it. You can trim from the butt to match the length if you wish.
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Make sure you put a "Non-conveyable" sticker on it. All the broken rods I've seen, the pvc pipe was folded near the middle.
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I was just thinking last week about about all the written works and contributions Tom Kirkman has made to this industry, including Rod Maker magazine, and I realized he is a living legend. I don't know if anybody has done more for rod building.
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Do you think they will make it illegal in tournaments in the future?
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The new Pacific Bay FX zirconia micros are very strong and light, but hard to wrap.
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Please add me to the list or feel free to contact me anytime, I am in Ft. Lauderdale... you can reach me through my site, SnyderRods.com/Rods
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Keep in mind also that a light-weight rod is a benefit by itself... a lighter rod will be more fun and reduce fatigue. All that's need to build a light rod is a common scale. Building a light rod is straightforward. It's not rocket science. And because you are addressing one of the mothers of sensitivity, they tend to be very sensitive also. When I got back into rod building after a long hi
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Rod sensitivity is determined by a couple of things. One is stiffness-to-weight ratio. A heavier rod could be more sensitive than a lighter one if it is stiffer to some degree. The rod sensitivity tester Bill Stevens teases us with should be able to tell us what we need to know with some hard math numbers and science. Will it be ready for the show? However, the big question is whether it wi
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