Some ideas: The first thing I would try is a different browser... that was a good idea. You can also order a paper catalog. I would also try to see if the site will come up with another local computer....a friend's or neighbor's computer? How about your local library computer? Also, you could walk into many stores/business that have Internet access, I'm sure anybody would be happy to see
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What kind of thread? This reminds me of the reason I use color preserver... it knocks down any fuzz.
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S-glass Seeker is less sensitive than graphite so you don't pull the bait away from the fish too quickly on the hookset and miss fish.
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- All brands mentioned are top-notch and very comparable. But I really like the Castaway and the new Batson RX 6 - very light for low-modulus graphite. But I would just buy wherever you will get the bulk of your components from, maybe you can save a little on shipping. Different types of blanks have been used as "crossovers" for many years... spinning blanks for casting rods, Mag Bas
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The 30V butt guide will work, but so will the 25Y... in general, it's better to go with the 25Y for weight reduction, that's the butt guide I use. How I set up the first two guides by test casting: Put the first/butt guide at the lowest position the article suggests, 18". During test casting, start moving only the butt guide forward in small increments, perhaps 1/2" or so, and watch
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Okay, based on the additional info you posted: - I would stick with the braid you like... the braid is lower stretch than anything and will slice through the weeds better. - Fiberglass is much tougher than graphite. However, it's less sensitive. - Sensitivity for bass fishing is needed for two main reasons: A) To insure you feel the hit quickly so you can set the hook quickly and
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If I buy an acme widget from Walmart, and I'm not satisfied with it within a reasonable time period, I return it to Walmart, not the manufacturer.
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Once cured/dried on the finished rod, will it be more flexible than epoxy? What about yellowing?
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Either the Seeker S-glass (at Bingham, Swampland) or a low modulus graphite rod will help keep you hooked up... the slower reaction/recovery, especially with the S-glass, is softer... what often happens with small hooks such as trebles is that a "harder" rod will help work a bigger hole in the fishes' mouth so that the hook will fall out. A very low stretch mono may help with this is
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Steve, I know you have done more testing with the micro guides than I have, thanks for posting that. Steve, do you remember what diameter tip guide you used for the tip?
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I've wrapped and fished rods with 00 gudebrod silk that I have caught 1,500 bass a year on, including accidentally hooking an alligator a couple of times. While it's not as strong as "A" size nylon, it's stronger than necessary.
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You can use the 4mm micro guides as runners, highly recommended. I use 3.5, but 4 is so close there would probably not be a noticeable difference in performance. For the tip, I would recommend at least a 4.5 mm ring for best performance... that's the smallest I've found that won't pinch 10 - 14lb. test line and impede line flow through the tip.
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Popping blank rated for 1/4 - 5/8 oz. lure should handle both of those duties well.
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I agree with Spencer Phipps, IST993F - that's the closest length, lure weight is dead on for bone fish, and lightest line weight I can find in the catalogs.
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You need a jerkbait blank, otherwise known as a popping blank. Many are 7" but you could cut down the butt to get your desired length. As an example, an MHX P843-2 or P842-2. CTS may have an equivalent, but I'm not familiar enough with their blank line to give you model numbers. I don't see any 2-pc inshore St. Croix blanks in my catalog (St. Croix calls their popping blanks "Inshore sa
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I use a hacksaw and a miter box to cut metal seats, then smooth/take the burrs off with a file.
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I agree with several of the others who recommended the RX8+S822.5 ... it's extra-fast, and the carbon scrim makes it one of the most sensitive blanks available. I think anything lighter will have trouble jigging 1/8 oz. in deep water. As others have said, if he adds pork or plastic to the jig, it's now a 1/4 oz. lure.
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Out of curiosity, I did a quick search on the web and came up with this online java program... it's based on web/html color number system, but there are charts you can find on the web which match the numbers to other systems/common color names. I think it's so good I bookmarked it.
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Well, orange is a hot color and sometimes goes better with other hot colors such as red, gold, yellow, beige and tan. Basic black is universal and goes with everything. I think silver/chrome might go best with cool colors such as greens and blues. Perhaps you could find an article on "hot" and "cool" colors (google it!) and get some ideas. A color wheel probably covers this.
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For the blank, you want a medium popping blank rated for 1/4 - 5/8 oz. lure for casting distance. The higher the modulus the better (casting efficiency). It's designed for more powerful two-handed casting. Some of the other popular crankbait blanks are softer so as not to tear a bigger hole in the fishes mouth with little crankbait hooks, but they won't have the casting potential.
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Russell, yes, I have caught numerous Mayans over the years on 6" plastic worms while targeting bass... that said, it's mostly by accident, and we catch a lot more bass, the worms are really too big for them and we probably miss most of them on the hookset. We find them primarily in the everglades during low water conditions when the fish are very abundant and very aggressive. I would prob
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I live in South Florida and catch them often when targeting bass with plastic worms. Like you say, they top out at about 2 pounds. They are not an indigenous species, and I believe they are related to peacock bass... I believe peacocks are simply green cichlids, so you could think of the Mayan's as mini peacocks. Pound for pound, they are stronger than largemouth, at least on the initial run.
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Steve Gardner Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- I prefer flipping/pitching sticks to be > 1-5/8" shorter then the distance to my elbow. - Bingo. That's the way I make all my rods, just short of the elbow so the end does not catch on your clothing.
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Well, 12lb. line diameter can vary by model/manufacturer. If it's .36mm mono/fluoro or less, I'd use: 25Y - 16Y - 10Y - 7V - and then the smallest running guides you will use out to the tip.
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1/4 - 3/4 oz. jigs sound pretty big for smallmouth and walleye, but maybe they are fishing deep and/or drifting/dragging. I would suggest a magbass or Spin bass rated for 1/4 - 5/8 oz. lures, something like the Batson ISB842 7' medium as a good all-around to handle whatever you might encounter. The longer length would help on hooksets in deep water.
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What size and type of line will you be using?
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I was in a similar boat.... I learned how to build rods as a kid in the 70's, then gave it up. Started building again 25 years later. Back then, the standards were: 1) Graphite blanks from Fenwick and glass from Lamiglas. 2) Flexcoat high build finish epoxy - most have gone to this because you only need one coat. 3) Ceramic guides - protect mono lines from heat damage... they are stil
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I've used gudebrod. My preference now is Prowrap. Lots of color choices, NCP thread options, and it comes off the spool well with less twist than some others.
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1) Epoxy has been the preferred wrap finish choice for around 25 years now.... probably because you can finish with as little as one coat... and that's why I like it too. 2) Dust - I finish my rod in a shop which sees multiple uses and is quite dusty... It does not show up in my finish, never had a problem with it. 3) Power outages... it has not happened yet, but I suppose if the lights go
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I have had a little too much cp overlap onto black printed vinyl decals that leaves a purple or discolored hue. Also, cp can give black thread a purple hue.
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