Sensitivity is only important sometimes, such as for slack-line techniques like worms or jigs to prevent gut-hooking fish, or for pure fun. In many areas a heavier rod with more damping can help keep a fish hooked up. Note the reference to the seeker glass rods above.
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I actually recommend a light popping rod, Batson has some in their RX7 line.
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I use a ML Popping blank rated for 1/4 - 1/2 oz. lure, but I'm using small #1 gamakatsu hooks which take a lot less pressure to penetrate than those big bass hooks he's using. I would recommend either a popping or MB blank rated for 1/4 - 5/8 oz. lures. You could go with an even heavier blank, as long as it won't break the line, but casting may suffer.
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I've wrapped several micro bass/inshore rods with size 00 Gudebrod silk. I stopped using it because of availability issues... standard "A" size is easier to find. I just don't think it saves that much weight, I think there is a point of diminishing returns in rodbuilding, and I think size "A" thread and micros is about as good as it gets. In other words, I can tell the diff
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Very generally, fast action jig rods may cast further with one-handed casting. Moderate to moderate-fast popping rods tend to cast better with two hands (need more power to load). So, it may depend on your casting style. That said, there might not be that much difference with light action pan fish rods. You would have to try each to know for sure.
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Oh, reading comprehension, LOL... I did not realize it was D size, that might explain things.
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It could be that particular color is not transparent. You could try some other basic red over a red metallic. Another option - have you ever tried Gudebrod Garnet by itself? I have a rod here with Garnet Gudebrod silk which matches an aluminum red anodized reel exactly. Mudhole claims their Prowrap 316 Raspberry matches it.
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I have always waited one hour with Flex Coat, never had any problem.
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All I'll say is that when I asked my supplier about Gudebrod, they suggested Pac Bay, so that's what I use now.
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I've been wrapping micro fly guides as a tip on my spinning rods for a couple of years now. First I started with 3.5mm, but found that it pinched 10 - 12lb. mono when there was more than a 90 degree angle in the line, so I went to a 4.5mm fly guide for tops. That cured that problem. It does look like a broken rod... unless you match all the colors, such as black guide, black thread, black pain
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Parts used and how you assemble the rod can make a big difference also. (Split-grip, lighter guides) Build it light.
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So that is the May issue? Is it on store racks now, or did you get it in the mail (subscriber)?
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There are several different attributes to rod performance, total weight is only one. "Feel the bite" sensitivity is another. There is also tip weight. Since a rod is like a lever, any weight placed near the tip will be magnified. The closer it is to the tip, the greater the effect weight has on momentum and apparent rod weight in use. Try this... affix a sinker to the butt guide and mov
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Most of what we do when building rods are compromises... as in life, when we do something to add one benefit, we have to give something else up; there is no free lunch. Micros - Even if you use the old standard small 6mm guides, the line will often hit the loaded blank, unless it is a broomstick. Just another reason to build spiral or spinning instead. Split grip - A little weight saved her
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I like a split-seat with cork insert and hidden hood.... when finished, only a small portion of the threads are exposed, the rest of the seat and handle are 1" diameter cork... very good combination of light weight, comfort. It's secure, and as quick and easy to change out reels as a standard handle.
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That's all I do is fish with weightless worms. I prefer a "popping" blank rated up to 1/2 oz. lures, such as the Batson XP842. The StCroix 4SW76MLF would be their equivalent.
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Cabelas and Daiwa used to have the rods in their catalogs. I think the only way you'll find one today, is if you get lucky and find a used one for sale.
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Pacific Bay is advertising a new one:
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I use the Elmer's Golden Oak and Natural colors... never heard of "Light Oak", and I don't see it on Elmer's site.
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I use 4" Cable ties from Home Depot for the larger guides.
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Pac Bay has come out with new heavy duty single foot micros:
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Line does make a big difference in sensitivity. With line, how sensitive it is seems to depend on two things... a combination of the density and the stretch. I like mono for the handling characteristics. Different brand/models of monofilament can stretch anywhere from about 16% to 28%. With the light bass rods I build, and the low stretch mono I use (Stren Magnathin, 18% stretch), I can feel the
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Sensitivity is stiffness to weight ratio. Any weight you put on the rod will reduce sensitivity... this includes the weight of rod building components, the weight of the reel, and even what type of reel in some cases (clue: some spinning reels are plastic, others metal). For a blank, I'd look at an unpainted blank with carbon scrim first.
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The number one rule is to make sure the butt length is not so long as to catch on your clothing during fishing. Maximum total handle (fore, seat, butt) length of 15.5 inches might be a good starting point.
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As Spencer said, look at popping blanks.
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I don't see a problem. Like Bill said, as long as the end does not catch on your clothing in use, you should be good to go.
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The Tennessee is probably the lightest. I prefer something you can quickly change reels with, and something more secure. Try a #16 spinning seat with poly arbor and split it, using a cork insert. Pac Bay G16 has no rubber cushions in the hoods and may be the lightest, but could also scratch the reel foot (you could tape the reel foot so it does not scratch).
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Anything added to a rod increases weight. Weight reduces sensitivity and can add to fatigue during fishing. From this standpoint, the split-grip clearly wins. But rods are always a compromise of several things, including comfort vs. weight. Some say a split-grip is more comfortable, others like a full grip. Some argue the split grip forces good, repetitive hand placement for casting. It's like
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When it comes to guides, everyone seems to be concerned about guide wear. But what about line wear?
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Rod Bond - Rod Builders Adhesive - I have the jar right here... it says, under directions - "6. Cure for 24 hours"
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