When you add up the cost of all the rod building tools and supplies you'll need to make a nice rod, the first rod you build may end up costing you several hundred dollars more than a similar store-bought rod. Rods number 2 through 84,999 will cost you less, and there will not be another rod exactly like them in the world.
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The thing is, you want people to be able to read it at a quick glance, it should be very easy to read, you want to get your name out there. But you also want it to look professional and larger than life... if you think big (and look big), you'll be big! I think the trick is to strike a balance between these two things. That said, I Like the decal better. However, I would personally chang
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It seems very simple to me. 1) What is going to flex more, the guides or the blank? - the answer is the blank. 2) Adding anything to the blank, such as guides, adds weight and will make the blank flex more for a given casting stroke ... any extra flex in the blank is a loss of efficiency. The answer is that you want to add as little weight to the blank as possible, especially near the ti
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It's made from expanded polyolefin foam. It's made in sheets and the cork, or in this case the "plastic" rings are cut from a sheet. One or both sides of the sheet are pressed, so this should show up in the rings... one or both ends of the rings will be denser and harder than the rest of the ring. This "plastic" is puffed up during manufacturing to make it porous like cork, so
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I use the McDonald's coffee stirrers as spatulas... because of the low cost (free), they are disposable... and I don't have to clean them, just throw them away. Also, I can cut the end of one in half, making it a micro spatula for micro guides.
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I think the government would be more concerned about somebody trying to make twentys out of ones. They are not concerned with a quarter used as embellishment on a rod. There is an old saying: Many people worry about things that will never happen.
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I've been using 3" cable ties. Sometimes hot glue when wrapping a guide on as a top.
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The modulus is important, information is power. You can get a good idea of modulus by comparing the prices to other brands where the modulus is known.
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What is the difference in action between a Medium fast (med-fast) and moderate fast (mod-fast) rod/blank typically? Or is med-fast just a typo and they mean mod-fast? Have you seen any blank/rod catalogs with both descriptions?
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When using .29 - .36 diameter (typically 10 - 14lb. test) mono/fluoro, you might consider using a minimum ring of 4.5 mm for the tip... when you raise the rod vertically to swing the lure to you, and try to release line to tie your knot or adjust/tune/clean your lure/swivel/hook, a smaller guide ring might pinch the line, making line flow through the tip difficult.
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For 10 - 14lb. test, up to .36 mm diameter mono, I use 4 transition guides: 25Y-16Y-10Y-7V ... and then all the same size fly running guides after that ( I like 3.5 micros). Read the concept article in the Library link above. If the line used will be larger than .36 mm, you might need to start with a 30, I would test cast to be sure... the main thing is to eliminate the line from slappin
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I make a spinning handle that is a compromise... split seat and hidden hood... the seat is split and a cork insert is used, and the hood is covered in cork also.... there is only about 1 - 1-1/3" of the seat threads exposed, 95% of the 15" handle is seamless cork... the exposed threaded portion of the 16" seat is so small, your hand basically rides over the threads and you feel m
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I prefer the Batson / Alps XY guides for spinning also.
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Alex, please send me the info through my site, don't want to post email because of spam bots.
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I love the Batson XY guides for spinning, and their micro fly guides... that's all I use on my production rods.
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The urethane foam arbors are porous and therefore have a much better stiffness to weight ratio than epoxy and tape. This is the way to go on light rods for sensitivity and light weight. I don't think there is anything better. However, tape and paper tubes are fine where weight and sensitivity are not an issue. I've personally seen paper tubes used underground for sewer pipes that lasted 50 yea
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When I got back into rod building after a 25 year hiatus, I had a terrible time trying to use a razor blade to cut thread... I would usually cut the whole wrap off, LOL! I use dedicated, name brand nail clippers now (basically the same idea as cuticle nippers). It makes sense... they are designed to cut close without drawing blood. Perfect for rod wrapping.
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For the spinning rod, refer to the article in the library to set up your guides. For runners, simply use micros. My typical build utilizes 25Y-16Y-10Y-7V- and then 3.5 Batson micros as runners. I use a 4.5 micro fly guide for the tip to save weight. The reason for the bigger 4.5mm size is so 10 - 14lb test mono and fluoro won't get pinched.
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I remember seeing the phrase "98% graphite on a rod when I was a kid (probably around the late 70's)... what does that mean, and how does it compare to other graphite rods of yesterday and today? What's the history? Is it the same as standard/33 million modulus?
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what I do with spinning rods for bait or stop-and-go techniques (worms, senkos, drop shot), is to locate the fixed reel seat/reel further back near the butt end... after the cast, if the fisherman will simply reposition his hand to the fore-grip, the reel now becomes the rod balancer without adding any additional weight to the rod. The rod can be balanced horizontally or vertically, even in a tip
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At least half of the popping blanks out there are clones of it.
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A popping blank w/ a 1/4-1/2 lure rating is exactly what I would recommend. I like Batson... the ip series would be equivalent to the MHX, the "X" series would be even lighter and more sensitive.
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In theory, when you start start sandwiching different materials together, it adds damping which can detract from sensitivity. With a shim, you have a sandwich of glue-shim-glue. With a reamed seat, you only have one layer - glue. A shim could be lighter than the graphite, this is true, but sensitivity is not simply a matter of weight... it's stiffness to weight ratio. Whether or not you wou
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Sounds like you figured it out. I push on the guide ring to adjust them, I don't touch the threads. I don't know if it matters, just the way I do it. For fixing the guides to the rod before wrapping, I use 4" cable ties snugged down with pliers. They are plastic, so they won't scratch the blank but hold very securely. The guides don't seem to move during wrapping. I can't imagine a better
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Why not consider an XP842 or XP843? Both would be great for Senkos. The XP842 might be a little light for bass-sized crankbaits though. The XP843 may cast the plugs further, but this may also depend on your casting style. Lamiglass also has equivalent models to the Batson's, one of which you have already listed.
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I build many bass / light inshore spinning rods with a full cork grip... the reel is set back on the handle to balance the rod vertically, kind of like a Michigan or drop shot style handle. The rear grip is only about 5 inches so there is not much room to take anything away. I suppose I could take out a token inch, but I doubt the weight reduction would be noticeable. I do however use small diame
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Assuming blanks made from the same materials, manufacturer, similar weights and powers, which blank would have the lighter weight tip end, and balance closer to the butt? A fast action blank, or a moderate/moderate fast? I'm not talking about power or about balancing the finished rod, I'm talking about actual, physical weight. I also assume a shorter rod of similar power will also feel less
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I have the prowrap burnt orange right in front of me. I'd describe it as "dirty tangerine". Orange and white or red and black would work for colors.
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I'm rod builder, a bass fisherman, and a sensitivity nut. I just finished building a medium-light IM7 rod blank the same way as a previous 54 mil. modulus blank of the same power and length. Both were built as light as possible without compromising other performance attributes... micro guides, 00 thread, minimal wraps and medium-build epoxy, all cork, and a split-seat. Nothing unnecessary was add
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Sounds like the builder was trying to balance it. I don't believe in adding extra weight to a rod, but some do. A rod that is balanced is a benefit, but so is a light weight rod.... I think that just swapping one attribute for another is a fool's errand.
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