I heartily second the Black Dog Tiger Eye blanks. I've built three of these now and they are among my favorite rods -- and by far, the prettiest, too. And this from a so-called professed ultra-fast rod user !! Try one, you won't regret it and may find yourself not lusting after the $200+ blanks. Tony M
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I'm interested in building some switch rods. however, I went to the Batson site and also their downloaded pdf catalog and could find no references to switch blanks. Did you build on the Spey blanks ? If so, which ones ? Any other blank suppliers worth investigating, anyone ? Thanks for your help Tony M
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I received a mailer that Headwaters has a 20% discount on bamboo rods or blanks in February. Anyone build on any of their blanks ? Opinions ? It looks like one has to finish the blank in addition to building on components. What has been used and how applied/degree of difficulty ? I have built a number of graphite rods, but no bamboo. This might be a good way to see if I like bamboo ......
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I've bought several aluminum tubes from REC, good service/good advice by phone on sizes needed. Tony M
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I used metallic thread for the first time last month on a Tiger Eye blank. Was very pleased with it for wrapping ease and for appearance. Only difference I noted was I had to use two coats of Threadmaster when I usually only need one on standard A thread. Tony M
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I've been using a stainless spatula and still use it for most of the wraps. When I had trouble laying down a uniform coat over lettering on the butt, I tried cutting a credit card (get a lot of them in the mail and find it cheaper to use for rod building than other purposes !) and cut it to the width needed for a uniform application over the lettering. This worked so good, I cut some other widt
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Thanks, gang. Just had never done it before -- don't mind the "permanent" attachment, just didn't want to have it come off or twist...... Tony M
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Thanks, Mike -- why might I be sorry ? Tony M
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Thanks, Mike -- why might I be sorry ? Tony M
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Just assembled a fly rod seat and grip with Rod Bond -- was a bit rushed, so put the tip top on with the Rod Bond, as well. Am I going to be ok with this or should I pull the tip top before it sets up and use 15 minute epoxy (like I usually do) ?? Thanks Tony M
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Carl: what town do you live in ? I live near Danbury, CT and, like most others here, do my shopping on-line from the sponsors on the left. I have been able to buy an occasional guide or tip top from stock at Compleat Angler in Darien and J Stockard (sponsor at left) has their headquarters in Kent, CT - but they don't have "brick and mortar" shop there, to my knowledge (maybe they wou
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That's what I do -- (Maybe starting by mounting the guides based on their reccomendations and altering the spacing based on eyeballed static deflection is the way to go.....). This whole topic is beginning to resemble all the discussions I encountered when trying to update my Home Theater sound system. I couldn't believe the esoteric endless talk in magazines and web sites about sound repr
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Some people are sensitive to (and others develop sensitivity over a period of time continuing using) epoxy hardeners. Best to be safe with adequate ventilation and, if it bothers you, get a good respiratory protector and use gloves. I don't personally know anyone who has developed these symptoms, but have heard of these effects during a chemical/plastic career. All the mfgrs will supply an MSD
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Tony S: I used a 7 wgt weight forward line on my DC 907-4 and it worked out just fine. I'm sure I could use heavier line, but didn't need it on the (good size) river in Labrador. The ultra-fast tip action also seemed to handle smaller flies and heavy strikes great, too. I caught pretty good size pike and the rod backbone was plenty adequate. Great rod. My standard trout rod here in Conne
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Roger: that's pretty funny, I sometimes have trouble seeing links (they come up blank) in Firefox -- then I insert the same URL in Safari and it comes up every time !! Tony M
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I took a 5 weight Dan Craft FT rod up to the Androscoggin (Maine) this summer (actually, it was a 4 wgt with a 5 wgt line) for smallmouth this summer and ran into windy conditions and felt totally undergunned. Friend loaned me his 8 wgt and I was just fine. Did not have a heavier line with me to try on the FT 4 wgt, but suspect it would probably have been ok. I later built a 7 wgt Dan Craft FT
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Regarding the issue of lining up guides. I agree with book for starter -- it (they) will give you workable methods. I find a few things help me on this task: tape (very narrow cuttings of masking tape) the guides in place eyeballing the best alignment you can working from the tip top (since this is first thing I glue on and the alignment with spine is most critical on top section(s) -- do th
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Ray: I live in Ridgefield (CT) and have dealt with a number of the suppliers on the left with good success. Local guy who has great service is J Stockard (jsflyfishing.com) in Kent, CT -- great service and fast delivery. Rod blanks and other components I've ordered from Black Dog (great Tiger Eye blanks and good components), Schneider (Rainshadow blanks) and Dan Craft (superb ultra fast FT bla
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I'm curious as well, -- maybe I should start this as a separate thread. My experience has been for my own personal rods, that the "standard" starting measurement for the first stripping guide (from the base of the rod to the first guide) is too long for comfort when I am fishing. I always feel that I have to overreach (bend forward and reach for the line just behind the first guide) t
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I've used gel pens successfully -- key for me is, I put a coat of color preserver on and let it dry before putting the epoxy finish protector on it....no smudging. Actually, I'm experimenting at present with using the gels to put the blank section alignment dots on (after all the finish applications) without CP or epoxy just to see how long they will last unprotected (I didn't like the extra coa
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Steve: appreciate that you have done many, many tests on rods and blanks. I have done only about a couple dozen -- I always wrap the ferrule female joints temporarily before doing a test o a pre-finished blank as I worry about cracking on flexing. Is this your practice also, or have you tested flexing without wraps ? Thanks Tony M
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I recently built two rods for this type application and was very happy with casting action, light weight and quality on both -- one from a Tiger Eye 7' 4/5 wgt blank from Black Dog (supplier at left) and other from a Batson Rainshadow RX7 - 7' - 4 wgt blank. And the appearance is gorgeous on both. I believe both blank types are available from 7' thru 9'. I recommend a 4-5 wgt for shorter rods
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I recently built two rods 7 ft. 4 wgt -- one from a Rainshadow RX7 and one from Tiger Eye blank from Joe at Black Dog Tackle -- The Tiger Eye blanks are gorgeous. I usually fish ultra fast (Dan Craft FT) rods I built, but I was very impressed with the feel and casting on small streams on both these rods. I don't think you would go wrong with any of the recommended blanks above, it's a matter of
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Van: go down to see the Black Dog folks. I've found them knowledgeable, helpful, good service -- and he builds rods, too. Tony M
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Mike: Appreciate the method for TM -- I'm not having any trouble mixing TM well. This thread was dealing with difficulties measuring Rod Bond accurately and I was discussing using weighted portions of Rod Bond resin and hardener. I can't eyeball the two dissimilar viscosities of RB in small portions and was looking for techniques to accurately dispense equal volumes of Rod Bond. Thanks Ton
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Mike: I agree that equal volume is what is specified. I just have not been able to judge small amounts by volume well, such as the amount needed for mounting a reel seat on a fly rod. Do you have any favorite or suggested methods to assure equal volume measurements on a one time mixture such as this ? Thanks Tony M
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I'm pretty sure Rod Bond is supposed to be mixed equal parts by volume, but I have had a couple instances where my "eyeballing" the glob sizes didn't come out right, so I switched to measuring precisely equal WEIGHTS of each on the scale I use for ammo reloading -- where it's important to measure accurately (in grains of powder). Since then, I've had zero problems and the Rod Bond sets
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Another relevant question is cost and appearance specifications..... there are many good blanks out there, on the higher cost side, Dan Craft has outstanding blanks, on the lower cost/great looking blank side, I like the Tiger Eye blanks -- depends on price and appearance, I think ...... Tony M
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If you're just doing one or a few, go to the hardware store and buy a tapered round file or two. Take the grip with you to get the correct diameter file. Then, just work slowly and consistently turning the grip in a set routine (I mark one spot and then take 12-15 strokes in each revolution of the grip in my hand). Check the fit often on your blank so that it slides down just to the reel seat
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Nope
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