Thank you. I sure thought I had looked there already. I found what I needed!
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Looking for a set of single foot bronze fly guides for a wt build. I have some doubles but really want single foot if possible. Anyone know anywhere that has any? I haven’t been able to find any.
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10Lb 4 oz. bass caught on custom lamiglass perigee, spiral wrapped titan guides, split rear grip, no fore grip. Thanks to everyone here who has shared so much info.
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Olive green is a nice color with copper.
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Check out therodglove.com
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I have at least one if you can't find one.
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Between these 2 what would you choose and why?
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Looking for someone to turn a reel seat insert or 2 for a fly rod. Anybody here able to help. You can email me if you wish. Thanks
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The rod glove offers this option also.
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Also thought about CTS. I agree with you Jerry, but also now considering this a challenge, and I do enjoy challenges. We will see...
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Thanks for the help. now insists on a NFC blank and the SA905-2 he says it is a little stiff and short of extending or cutting, I don't see anything to suite him.
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In search for a 9' to 9'6" blank rated 10-20 lb line capable of throwing 1- 2 1/2oz. Will be built as a spinning rod. These criteria are very specific and I am having a bit of difficulty finding a blank to fit. Anyone have any reccomendations
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I would rather have the 3.5" set also
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I need a lime green Winn grip, either an 8.5 rear grip or a split grip set, either will work. I cannot find any sponsors to the left that has any in stock and that color is pretty much demanded in this case. Does anyone have any ideas? Edit...I just found that swampland has a 8.5" set.
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I have some that I have tanned myself and used on rods. They are large skins. Let me know if you are interested. I can send pics if you need them.
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You will first need to make a mold out of rtv silicone of a cylinder inside the PVC. Then you can cast your foam inside the rtv which rests inside the PVC which has been split. Look at the Riley website at their molds.
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I received the spreads sheet, etc. from John and WOW! It does a great job explaining everything. I can't wait to start on a few tubes in the next few weeks. Thanks!
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Has anyone used left over hardwood flooring ripped/planed down to the correct thickness?
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Thanks for the help guys. I thought there was a "formula" for the sizes. This makes sense.
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I attended Mark Crouse's seminar on presentation rod tubes this year but I have lost my notes. Didn't he have a handout ? All I can remember is 22.5 degree cut with a router, masking tape method. Can anyone tell me the size and thickness for each piece before glue up? Or have a copy of his sheet they can e-mail me?
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I build mostly bass rods and I don't take balance into consideration. Like Tom said, doing so usually ends up with a handle that is too long or adding to much weight to the butt of the rod. I choose to just make the rod as light as possible.
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I have played with mine some and I do not see any need for the higher resolution. The 270 prints very clear and crisp. The only advantage to the 360 that I see would be the ability to cut round edges on the decals but this is not something that I see necesary if using the clear tape.
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I had to go to Sears and buy one that would fit. The good thing was it was pretty cheap...around $30.
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I form mine when shaping the grip. Then after the core is sealed, apply sleeve and wet coat. I use a zip tie to hold one end of the CF to the mandrel and slide the core with the recess down the mandrel so that the CF is inside the recess. Make sure that the CF is fully open when doing this to avoic any blemishes. Then finish up the other end as usual. After the first wet coat I cut off the z
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I have used the Eva trick before but on the last one I did as Todd Vivian suggested and epoxied a piece of scrap blank inside the butt section that is long enough to prevent this. It has worked out great!
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If I am not mistaken it is pewter. Don't know if iris still made but I picked up several discontinued spools a few years ago. I believe it was fishhawk. Maybe try the pro wrap pewter 9810.
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I have done this before but with an Eva plug instead. I was just looking for other options and I did get them. Thanks. I will try the scrap blank.
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Randolph Ruwe Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hal, you only have to put the first guide 1 inch > in front of where the butt section ends!!You don't > have to have the guide slam into the butt when > collapsed. If I put the guide 1 inch from where the butt section ends when collapsed, then when extended, the guide will be 32" from the front r
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From front of real seat to end of the front of butt section is about 10". If the rod collapses 22" then that is 32" (butt section and blade extended) that is "lost" when the rod collapses.
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8'. MHX966T. The butt section is 22" long but unless the first guide is located at least 30" from the real seat then something has to be used.
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