See accompanying photos under, “Grips, Handles and Reel Seats”, “CARL Ferrules”. A number of months ago, I mentioned developing a composite (FG)ferrule system and was disappointed with the lack of interest, if not simply, “Why?”, so I just let it go. After re-mentioning the concept on Doug Moore’s post, “Ferrules” a few days ago, a few showed interest, so I have prepared a build procedure for th
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Hi there I have read posts about the lump on one side of the guide once the epoxy finish has dried. I have read different reasons on other sites and it is confusing. Can someone help me out with the reason this happens, it looks like a tumor on the side. Thanks for any help I sure do appreciate it. This is the site to get the right answer I am sure. Bob
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In the past, I've used single foot guides on a lighter rod (7' four weight) and snake guides on a 9 1/2' seven weight rod. I am considering an Eternity 9' five weight for the near future. What are the pros and cons of single foot vs. traditional double footed snake guides? I would really appreciate some opinions on this subject. Thanks in advance! Slainte, Hunter
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I am experiencing difficulty with initial reduction guide placement on a surf spinning rod and would graciously appreciate assistance from seasoned veterans such as you. The blank is a 2-piece, 9ft-4in old FG Conolon with a 23in aluminum butt extension (3in overlap). The reel is a Daiwa Emblem Pro 5000-A (4500 size as stated on the box). The reel was chosen from recommendations of those on this s
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And a glorious, good day to all. Have any of you attempted produce a faster action by stiffening the lower portion of a rod by pressing in rigid foam (PVC, Urethane or such as used in the composite industry) through the butt of the blank? Most of my composite sandwich construction utilizes .125-.75in PVC foam core, 3lb/cu ft which would add extremely minimal weight, less than .3oz half way up a
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Hi All, Im building my first 2pc rod. The rod it 9ft long and rate for 1/2-2 oz. the top half of the rod slides over the bottom. Do you guys add a wrap to the female end of the top half for support at the joint? If so, how much?
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On a purchase of a 9', 5 wt, 4 section flyrod blank discovered it had a split end in the second section nearest the butt (handle/reelseat section). It was in the female end of the section, a split of about .28 inches (or 7.17 mm). Question: will an extra long thread wrap solve the problem? Afraid to apply glue before hand because fear it could leach into interior of blank and resist male
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could use your help I am starting to build a 13'0" 4pcs Rainshadow float rod model # xst1563-4 I can not find the guide spacing for this blank any help would be appreciated .. Gord
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I am in the process of putting together a 2-piece Sage SP196 9'6" 4-10lb line weight blank as a drift rod for steelhead here in the Pacific Northwest. My question is: How important is it to wrap the entire length of the ferrule with thread? Or can I just wrap part of the ferrule and be confident in knowing that the ferrule will not break on me? The bottom section of the blank goes
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I need some suggestions for guide spacing (and sizes) for a Hook &/Hackle (Xi series) 4 piece, 2 wt. flyrod. Problem is standard guide charts don't take into account putting 4th guide (from top) exactly on the female end of the tip section of the rod. So trying to figure better guide placement (particularly on the end of the tip section) and all other guides. Would appreciate some
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I made a nice little graphite spinning rod for a friends birthday a few years back. I recently found out that he doesn't fish it because it is a one piece and inconvenient for him to travel with it in his car. Any reason I can't just cut it and install a ferrule? Thanks, Joe
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A two piece graphite rod I built has an extremely tight ferule. I was cleaning the rod last night after using it in saltwater and it took me nearly an hour of tugging & pulling and trying to twist & turn the rod to get it apart. I'm afraid if it continues to stay this tight I'm going to break a guide of the rod itself trying to get it apart. Any suggestion on what I can do? Are there an
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I have an older 11 foot surf rod. It is a Daiwa rod, not sure of the specs, and hasn't seen much use because it obviously has a serious flaw in it someplace. It will not cast any bait, lure, weight, or line composition on any spin reel 45 to 60 series, without the dreaded wind knot (even on a calm day) on a mid to strong power cast. That consequently keeps it in the rack and not used. My questio
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Are there additional concerns to consider when spiral wrapping a 2pc. casting rod, or do you treat it as if it were one pc. I guess my concern regards ferrule vs guide location as it is an 8ft. rod with only 1 guide on the butt section. The blank's rated up to 4oz. The butt guide will be a double ft. Minima 3 size 10. ( I also have a couple double ft. sz.6's here.) from there it goes down to Pac
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Hi, I’m looking for suggestions on guide alignment on a 4 piece fly rod blank. Do you add the guides to each piece then make sure they align with each other **on that individual piece** or do you add them to the entire length of the fly rod blank and align them all together at the end. Thank you.
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Hello fellow rod builders. I have been a fly rod builder since late 90's about to tackle my first float rod build. I fish many small rivers so I chose a CTS affinity 11'6" 2 piece 4-8 lb blank. Formerly I have been fishing a clarus 11' 4 and I like the handle length 20" 6 inches of cork in front of the pin. I plan on using the titanium nanolite guides 16 being largest 8mm the smallest.
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I am playing with a 'restoration' of a bamboo rod, just to have the chance to play with a bamboo rod. More a learn on the fly than an actual restoration. The question is, on the tip section, there is enough twist that the tip top and first guide at the ferrule appear to be twisted one flat side out of true. Do I move the guide over one flat to make it look good or attach it where it belongs?
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Hi everybody, Firstly, I apologize for a seriously dull question that comes from a rod building newbie like me. I've tried looking in the old discussions with no luck. i'm re-wrapping a 2pc's 6'6" spinning rod. Getting rid of the old guides in favour of 9 guides KR. I'm not going to change handle and reel seat. When deciding where to wrap the guides, both with GPS and table edge m
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I am building my first two-piece Steelhead Salmon rod and unsure of the conventional way of applying and drying epoxy to the female ferrule wrap. I have some ideas of what may work however; I would appreciate some expert advice. I have put a great deal of time and effort into this rod so far and would hate to mess it up at this stage. Thanks again for all of the past help, Mike
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Upon measuring the guide placement of the "choker" guide using the 27X method I find that the choker guide is only 1" 3/8 from the female end of the ferrule. Is that too close? Should I move it further out? This is my first build and it is a 10' 6" spinning rod set up with a Penn Battle II 2000 using a Rainshadow BP1264F blank.
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Is anyone aware of a dynamic analysis of rod blanks ? Most of what I've seen has been static analysis which is of very little use in assessing "feel". This could be used to assess casting characteristics and "feel" of blanks. Studies would compare affect of mass distribution versus acceleration to determine deflection of blanks under various acceleration loads. Also what
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So I have a question I have always heard not to wrap guides with metallic thread but I have seen some photos of other builders who have done guide wraps with metallic thread. So my question is can you wrap guides with metallic thread without having issues with guides pulling out. Please let me know your opinions on the topic. Thanks, Matt
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Hi, I was wondering... Can a 1-piece blank be cut and made into a 2-piece without sacrificing any strength? If so... What would be the best way to do so? I was thinking about cutting and glueing a full graphite ferrule in the lowerr part... What do you think? Thanks,
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Hi everyone, I am building a very nice UL for panfish and small bass at the moment (first KR Concept build). The foundation is a 6' UL St. Croix SCIII blank, Fuji size 16 reel seat and a set of Titanium Torzite KL (size 16, 8, 5.5), KT (size 4) and KB (3 size 4) guides with a LG micro tip top (size 4). 8 guides total plus the tip. The guide placement I'm starting from is the Anglers Resourc
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some of the rod guides are landing on ferrule. should I adjust this and if so how far from ferrule should they be.4wt fly
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proper distance for ferrule wraps is twice the diameter of the blank correct? I keep getting confused if it is diameter or circumference. Circumference looks WAY to much....
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I'm about to do a build for my Grandpa on a S721-2-MHX. How many guides and what sizes will I need? Also, it's a two piece. Do I need a ferrule or anything like that? Thanks.
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I need some information from knowledgeable Fenwick fans. Which years did Fenwick produce their s-glass series? What was the first and last year? I can't figure that one out. Also, under what model names did they manufacture them? I'm having a tough time pinning the production run and the exact models their were manufactured under. For instance, not sure if both the Fenglas and Feralites were both
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I have a rod that is broken 18" from the tip. I do not have the piece that was broken off. It was a 7 Ft. 6 in. Spinning rod and now it is 6 Ft. Long. I have stripped the entire rod (reel seat, butt and fore grip, guides, and finish.) Is there any way to add an 18 " piece to the rod successfully or should I just rebuild it as a 6' rod? Thanks, Jon
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I purchased a rod kit from mudhole to build my 1st rod, a couple of questons. I'm taping down the guides, using the guide layout and the measurements that came with the kit, I end up with my 6th guide directly over the female end of the ferrele on the upper blank,I know it shouldn't go there, but should I move it closer to the tip, or down toward the butt end, which would move the guide onto the
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