Hi All ! Just purchased 2 pac bay quickline 10'4 wt blanks. (4 pc) I am building "twins" for my friend and I to do some czech nymphing. I consulted the pac bay page on guide spacing for these rods and noticed that one of the guides will be on a ferrule (30"). While I understand this is OK....I am not a fan of it. I am hoping Geoff Staples or any other board member who has ex
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Hello all, I'll try to keep this short. I have a boat rod of my Fathers. Harnell blankon the 50's two piece style wooden grip and handle. The chromed brass reel seat is green and toast so I want to turn it into a one piece. It's 6'6" total length. I cut the reel seat off and now trying to figure how to make a one piece. My idea is to turn down the wooden grip and handle to a comfortable dia
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I'm using fish hawk nylon core gold metallic A for the underwrap at which the ends will double as trim and for the overwrap, fish hawk black nylon D. The blank is matte black. What is the best way to finish the wraps so I don't run into a problem. IE: fading, darkening, bubbles ,bleeding, Metallic staying packed, Cp or no cp etc, etc,. I would appreciate a sequence to follow from someone who
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Could someone give me guide spacing using the kr concept for use with a shimono stradic CI4+ 1000, on a 7' XP840 with a 7" handle. Thanks, Troy
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Can anyone give me a guide spacing for a 9 foot musky rod? I just need the basics to start, I will do a static line deflection test and test casting as this is a longer than normal custom grip. thanks much buzz
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Hello everyone, I'm new to the site I've looked around and seems to be some very useful information here. I brought up this post because I couldn't quite find this info and I'm desperate. My dilemma is this: my father-in-law an I use to fly fish a lot together that is until he passed away. He use to be the guy to do all the fly rod building that we would then go fly fishing with different rods fo
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Hey guys, I'm building a 12 ft salmon steelhead blank for light saltwater fishing. I read two concepts for KR, the one posted on anglers resource (20H,10H, 5.5H/M), and a updated version which calls for a 4-guide reduction train using: 1. 20H-10H-7M-6L or 2.16H-8H-6M-5.5L. I purchased both groups, as well as 4.5 KB/KTs. I haven't tried the original concept on anglers resource becaus
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Getting ready to build a Daiwa Ballistic Saltiga 13' 3" 40-405 to be used with a Saltist 30 BG conventional reel. I cant find any information on potential layouts for this rod and was wondering if anyone had built one in the past and if so with what guides and what placement. Otherwise I'm planning on buying various components and just test casting different layouts.
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I'm building my first fly rod and need some advice. It's a Batson 10wt blank and I have the guide spacing marked per the Batson website. The issue is the proximity of one of the running guides to one of the ferrules (it's a 4 pc blank). If I reinforce the ferrule there would be very ittle room between that wrap and the closest running guide wrap. I haven't set up a static test yet so there ma
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Well I have decided to build the 2 piece graphite blank that I believe is a Orvis 5 wt. This is my first fly rod build and I don't even fly fish, my son does. I have a few more question, how many, what size guides, single foot or double should I use? Is a ferrule necessary? The 2 rod pieces fit, but there is a little wobble, I can trim a little of the end to eliminate the wobble.
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I'm about to build an Anglers Roost 11' 5/6 wt switch rod. It's a medium action, 4-pce blank. I've looked at several options for guide spacing, some which include a stripping guide on the bottom section, others placing the bottom guide on the 2nd section. Really looking for a starting point, to get me to the point of doing a static test to dial them in. Just wondering if anyone here has built on
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Hi, I'm Logan. I'm new here and am just about to start my first build. I'm going with a cheap Fish Creek 9' 4wt 4pc fly blank, ring and cap reel seat, and single foot guides and I'm custom making my own cork handle. I have researched and read up on it a good bit, but I'm having a hard time figuring out how the ferrules work. Say I order a 4 pc blank, will I have to install ferrules on the e
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Hello, I'd like to re-wrap a Fenwick Generation I HMG Graphite fly rod ... The wraps are green with white tipping...the model is the Fenwick HMG 9010 (9-10 weight) ... the blank color is charcoal with a tip over fiberglass ferrule where the entire ferrule is wrapped in green with stripper guide poking out... I was hoping someone would know the thread color ... NCP or regular ... presumably this i
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Need to wrap a ferrule (tip-over-butt) that has a guide very close to the female end. I read number 14 of the FAQs. That would work out well. I also read what Dale Clemens wrote that a 1/4 wrap would suffice but not look good. So most wrap the entire ferrule to length of the male penetration plus 1/4 inch or to the point where the diameter reduces to the normal taper of the blank. On this b
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Hello all, I am looking for a litte input. Working on my first fly rod build. after working out guide placement i have a guide (snake) an inch & quarter from the end of the ferrul. Would ya'll suggest one wrap for the ferrel and guide foot or two small wraps? I think that one wrap will be bulky looking but if i wrap two small wraps they will only be 3/8 to 1/2'' apart. On a side note how lo
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I’m building an 11’6” Sage switch rod. To be honest, me being a Bass guy this is the first Sage build for me. With all other fly rods I wrap the ferules. However, I noticed that Sage has the white alignment dots. How do you guys manage them? As info the guy does not want translucent thread work. So wrapping allowing the dots to be seen through the thread is not an option. Do you wrap over
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Hello to everyone I want your suggestions about an issue on my spiggot ferrule. I bought one expensive 2 section rod for the shore jigging technique.Recently i broke the lower section and i order a new one. So when i receive it when i connected to my upper section the spigot joint has 3cm difference from the other.I said that to the company and says me to rub it with sandpapaper very very
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For a 10 foot 2 piece rod, I have a couple of longitudanal cracks in the tip half starting about 7" from end of the joint. The longest crack is 2". A guide will be placed there after repair. Question is how will you repair it. If I bind it and epoxy each layer for about 2/3 layers, will that be strong enough not forgetting I'll be also binding a guide on the top of it? do I need to reso
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I took a recent class and the instructor insisted we apply the underwrap from left to right . I was experimenting with thread art on a golf club and found it was darn near impossible to wrap from left to right. (I use a power wrapper). This, of course is because there is a pretty good slope on a golf club as the shaft gets smaller towards the club head. I decided to try it going right to lef
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Folks: I have had a couple of rods given to me, that the story goes were the first rods that my Grandfather sold when he open his Bait and Tackle shop in Belle River, Ontario. They are Shakespeare Wonderrods. One is in need of repair. A guide needs to be re-wrapped and the ferrule needs to be re-wrapped. To do this I need some Black/Green Classic Twist thread. This does not seem to be in
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Hey guys, I'm relatively new to rod building and very new to this forum. I have built one 9 foot spinning rod and am now building a 13 foot float rod. The blank I'm using is a cts 4-8 power 2 pc. I would appreciate some help selecting the proper guides. I am familiar with the REC recoils as I have them on my GLX's. I'm ok with them, however I know some guys use the fugi guides as well as ot
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Newbie question: I have a few 7' blanks and would like to make a 6'6" rod for my granddaughter -can I just cut off one of the 7'ers from the butt or should I just order the 6'6"? Don't want to assume cutting it off won't affect the rod.
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So I've read about static load testing for guide placement , but I've also read that assembled blanks shouldn't really be flexed until you wrapped the ferrules (I think I've even seen suggestions to not even assemble the rod before wrapping the ferrules) to prevent splitting. So what's the common practice? Do a quick and dirty wrap for static load testing/test casting that you remove to do the fi
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While watching some youtube vids I noticed that on this vid the first eye is upside down and according to the comments it allows the line to unspool easier. Is this correct? Is there any other benefit to this? Or is it just a cool way to get your rods noticed? Thanks for any responses Andi Robb
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i got a house of hardy fibatube fly rod blank 10-1/2 ft. rated for 6,7,8 weight with spigot ferrules. how long should the wrap be at the ferrules, i'm building this as a float rod for rainbows in smaller rivers. i will be make an elliptical inlay on the handle using cork. i no longer have my tablesaw, so i will be making the cut with a miter box and hand saw, what would the best type of saw to u
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Hi guys, I have recently bought 15 rods to refurbish and sell on and amongst them I found a nice Garcia Conolon 2510-A in great condition(just needing a clean up. As its such a nice rod I was thinking of keeping it for myself(dont tell the wife) but was looking for some history and maybe a value before I make the decision. It is a Garcia Conolon 2510-A light action fast taper rod rated to 4-8
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A friend brought to me and old favorite rod of his that he broke at fifth guide from the tip. This is a 7' casting rod. He had purchased a metal ferrule and asked me to do the repair using the ferrule. I've installed the ferrule and now need to replace the guide. Static testing places the guide on the ferrule which is where it was to begin with. I assume there is no problem wrapping the guid
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I am in the process of completing a repair to an older 2 piece ultra light rod. The break is about 6" below the ferrule and 2" above the first guide. Due to this being a tip into butt rod, an oversleeve is not an option, so I am going with an inner sleeve. The sleeve is fit and will be glued with rod bond. I plan on filling the gaps between the two pieces with tinted rod bond. I w
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I am new to rod building and have successfully built 1 fly rod. I am building my second rod (a 2pc spin caster) and have a question on wrapping the Ferrule. Should i wrap the ferrule with the two pieces together and fully seated, or should i have them together and loosly seated so i can get a tighter wrap to support the ferrule? Thanks, JC
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Hi guys. I decided to get an expert opinion on the issue i encountered just recently. Early this year I built a rod for my friend, as a gift for his 55th BD. It is a steelhead centerpin rod built on Rainshadow XST 1562 blank with single-foot high frame Alps guides with zirconium inserts. Rod was build on the the belly side of the spine. Rod is 13 ft 2 pcs. Initially I used Batson guide spacing c
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