Russell, You might want to try starting with a regular spinning 40 and proceed from there. ................
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RodMaker Magazine Special Edition CD #2, will be delivered this coming Friday. It deals with building specific rod types including, but not limited to: Ultra-Light Rods Stand-Up Rods Two Handed Rods Musky Rods Great Lakes Trolling Rods Bass Revolver Rods No-Foregrip Rods Live Bait Rods Surf Rods River Bass Rods Spiral Wrapped Rods Making Wooden Rods And Assorted/Relate
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I can't ship outside the U.S. Sorry. ..........
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We've done articles on how to easily bore seat inserts, end to end. Check your past issues of RodMaker. ...............
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Mike Barkley has a website that keeps some of that information, I think. You may find that you can go from the 40 to a 25. I'd have to set it up to get all the sizes, but if you have any old guides around you should have enough to plot things out and then order the specific type you need. ...................
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A Forstner bit really isn't the best tool for that job. .............
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A 40HH is a little over 3 inches high. I'd start there and then set up the remainder so that the line has a straight path on out to the tip. Doing it this way may mean that you have a little discrepancy with the path between the reel and the butt guide, but I don't think it's going to hurt you very much. Just make sure that once the line reaches the butt guide, it has a straight path from there
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What you describe sounds like a tip into butt ferrule. They generally get looser over time and are hard to cure. My guess is that by heating it you caused the finish to soften, then it hardened as it cooled and effectively glued your ferrule together. I hope not. I suggest a cold treatment - put an ice bag around it for 10 minutes and then give it another shot. The ferrule tool mentioned by
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I understand what you're saying. However, G. Loomis, Inc. operated as a subsidiary of Shimano and was producing their blanks and rods in their own facility here in the U.S., with different staffs and different operations. That's why I referred to Loomis and Shimano as 2 different companies. That may or may not be the case in the future. I do understand your point. ...................
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In order to keep the grip concentric with the bore, you need to "cut" the grip initially. I do this with a half round scraper held on the tool rest a set distance into the grip. As you begin, you'll find the scraper removes material only on 1 side of the grip. As you progress, it will be cutting all the way around and the grip will then be concentric with the bore. From there, you can
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How long? Most are 4" to 6" although you can easily get a drill bit extender some of which push out to 10" to 12" or more. What are you trying to do? Maybe there's a better tool. .............
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A 2.5 inch diameter spool is a large spool compared to most spinning reels. Do just what you said - set the line path from spool centerline to tiptop and set the guides so their outside edge touches the line path. In effect, the NGC from reel to choker is a modified "tighter" cone of flight system. If you're using very light line, or braid, you can try the choker a little closer - o
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The 27X factor is based on spool diameter. Rod length is immaterial. In an extreme situation where you have a very large diameter reel and a short rod, the choker guide may fall beyond the rod tip. In those situations, the tiptop is the choker guide. ..............
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Blank and component prices are the lowest they've ever been - dealer margins shrink every year due to continued discounting by folks who shouldn't be in the business to begin with. Any manufacturer that would sell to a custom rod buying group co-op is cutting his dealers' throats. The reason people will pay large sums for commercially made rods is because the commercial rod companies have inve
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Volume 10 #4 I think. ...........
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You can do it without tying off in-between. Just make a careful reverse, pushing the thread back one thread width and then change direction. ....................
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No. Shimano does not sell rod blanks. ...............
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The heat that will break an epoxy bond is the same heat that can easily damage a blank or other component parts. If it were me, I'd spiral cut the gimbal off and replace it with a fresh one. ...............
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No, if that quote is from their website they aren't actually saying that they're using North Fork blanks. It's a subtle play on words. They say that they are using blanks built by Gary and his team at North Fork. There is a difference. ................
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What North Fork is making and selling are not exactly the same as what G. Loomis, Inc., sold. The models and tapers are certainly different so you wouldn't want to think of them as the same blanks with a different name - they're not. .........................
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I believe Steve's Hot Handle article was in the Volume 11 #2 issue. ...............
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The technique is applicable to any rod type and harkens back to the days when all rods were made from materials such as Western Red Cedar. .................
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Jon, I think it's in Volume 6 #3. It may also be in the online library here. You have a good many options as to how to do this and UL power blanks are ideal candidates for extending as you don't place that much pressure on your extension junction. ...........
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G. Loomis, Inc. blanks will continue to carry a warranty, but you are correct in that blanks will not be replaced with blanks. If Loomis determines that your blank broke due to a defect on their part, they will replace it with the closest available finished rod that they offer. I'm sure Loomis or Mud Hole will be happy to provide the specifics for anyone that wants to know. ................
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The expanded chart in the Universal Rod Rating System takes you up through something like 300 pennies. That would put your ERN at just over 19. ...................
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The IP840 might be interesting, but unless those trout get larger than I think they do, you still may find the popping blanks a little too much. You could always find a 6 to 6'6" UL blank you like and build the handle on an extension. That will preserve the UL power but get you the length you're after. The action will become a little faster, of course, but you may find that you like thin
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Rod companies that have their blanks made at any of the various no-name oriental blank manufacturing plants generally do not tout the names of the company they get their blanks from. Obviously Kistler sees a marketing opportunity by playing off the Loomis name. ............
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Both past and new material combined. .............
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RodMaker Magazine Special Edition CD #2, will be delivered this coming Friday. It deals with building specific rod types including, but not limited to: Ultra-Light Rods Stand-Up Rods Two Handed Rods Musky Rods Great Lakes Trolling Rods Bass Revolver Rods No-Foregrip Rods Live Bait Rods Surf Rods River Bass Rods Spiral Wrapped Rods Making Wooden Rods And Assorted/Related
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Many of those people may not have any clue what the term "fast" means. Action is where the rod initially flexes. I suspect many are actually referring to speed (reaction and recovery speed) and custom rod builders need to ferret out this information in order to make sure the customer gets what he's after. Ringed guides are not necessarily heavier than snake guides. Depends on the pa
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