it wouldnt be near the problem if the eyes were lined up but of course they are not. i got a friend of mines rod that im redoing, rewraped and finished all the eyes, looked pretty good. went to put it together and noticed the fit at the ferrule was loose, male top female bottom, i read on here that a possable solution is to add finish to the male, did that, was in the process of sanding to fit using THIN coat of bees wax for lube on test fits (didnt have paraphin wax) and it happened...... STUCK hard. of course i didnt use anywere NEAR the force putting it together as i have used trying to get it back apart, ive used all the muscle i got on this one and i need some brains help to get this thing apart, the only other thing ive tried is a hair dryer. HEEEEEEEELP!!!!! PLEEEEASE!!!

I heard on here that wax was NOT good. Oh well, beside the point now. There was a ferrule tool in a past issue of the magazine that was made from a piece of EVA grip with non-slip pad inside. It lets you get a much better grip on the rod and really get some twisting force on it.

What you describe sounds like a tip into butt ferrule. They generally get looser over time and are hard to cure. My guess is that by heating it you caused the finish to soften, then it hardened as it cooled and effectively glued your ferrule together. I hope not.

I suggest a cold treatment - put an ice bag around it for 10 minutes and then give it another shot. The ferrule tool mentioned by Ken will also be helpful. It allows you to gain a much better purchase on the sections. I'd use one on both pieces. You can make them in 10 minutes and use them on future stuck ferrules. They really do make a night and day difference in how much force you're able to actually and safely apply to a ferrule.

....................

Sense you used a wax the best suggestion I can give you is this. Heat water till it is bowling. It will take 3 people one to pour the water over the female end and two to pull do not twist. Also have cold iced rags wrapped around the male end
Good luck. Oh yes once you have the parts apart clean both the male and female ends with denatured alcohol or Acetone. Good luck

Good Wraps Bob

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What you describe sounds like a tip into butt
> ferrule. They generally get looser over time and
> are hard to cure. My guess is that by heating it
> you caused the finish to soften, then it hardened
> as it cooled and effectively glued your ferrule
> together. I hope not.
>
> I suggest a cold treatment - put an ice bag around
> it for 10 minutes and then give it another shot.
> The ferrule tool mentioned by Ken will also be
> helpful. It allows you to gain a much better
> purchase on the sections. I'd use one on both
> pieces. You can make them in 10 minutes and use
> them on future stuck ferrules. They really do make
> a night and day difference in how much force
> you're able to actually and safely apply to a
> ferrule.
>
> ....................


yea the tip goes into the butt and the rod has had 10yrs of hard use and was pretty worn. the two sections were already stuuuuck before i heated it, and the finish seemed hard i think cured for 24hrs i think, so i dont believe its glued. i thought about the cold idea and may try it before work if not im gonna take it to work with me and have my friend get on the other end and give er a good yank.

If you used wrap type epoxy on the ferrule it stays relatively soft and it could easily have "jammed" the mating of the ferrules. Heating it will only make it worse as it softens the epoxy, unless you heat enough to make it let go of the adhesion. This is going to be very difficult in a small cylinder such as described. In any case DO NOT TWIST unless you want a shattered rod. Very doubtful the beeswax had anything to do with the problem. Icing and strong staright pulling maybe you best option.

Phil Erickson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If you used wrap type epoxy on the ferrule it
> stays relatively soft and it could easily have
> "jammed" the mating of the ferrules. Heating it
> will only make it worse as it softens the epoxy,
> unless you heat enough to make it let go of the
> adhesion. This is going to be very difficult in a
> small cylinder such as described. In any case DO
> NOT TWIST unless you want a shattered rod. Very
> doubtful the beeswax had anything to do with the
> problem. Icing and strong staright pulling maybe
> you best option.


LOL thats what i used :( and it shure is jammed. i tried twisting already oops it did move at first enough to missalign the eyes but not come apart. ive actually twisted as hard as i possably can enough to bruse my palms and nothing gave. this is no small rod its a 10' nite stick and the ferrule is big enough to stick a finger in. I drug the wife across the floor trying to pull it apart lol. I'm gonna put a ice pack on it on the way to work and have my friend pull on it when i get there. IF we get it appart then what? will it be ok to use if i get it sanded down to fit better or is it gonna do this again???? or should i take it all off? about the only other thing i think i have to use would be 5 minut epoxy but i heard it may be to hard and wont last??????

Brandon,

If you can't find a ferule tool, go to an archery shop and ask them for an arrow puller. You can get them for a few bucks.

jeremy

Be sure you take all the epoxy you put on, off or you can have the same problem all over. If you are going to put something onto the male ferrule, it needs to be something the sets up hard, not flexible. Perma Gloss might be an option

If you plan on using epoxy, be sure that it sets up hard....not flexible or soft. You want some thing that is just as hard as the graphite or glass that the rod is made from.

If you get the rod apart do like Phil suggested. As for making it cld you my want to wrp the rod and pack some dry ice around it. Becareful!! a little dry ice goes a long ways

Good Wraps Bob

well we couldnt pull it apart BUT i got lucky i dont know why i didnt think of it sooner but i had wraped thread under the finish to help fill the gap thank goodness i did because i dont think id of gotten it appart otherwise. i sliced through the finish and started unwinding of course the small dia. thread i used broke an inch or so under the ferrule but it bought me enough wiggle room and i got it apart. :-) took all i had but its 2pc. again. DO NOT USE FLEX COAT TO FIX A LOOSE FERRULE UNLESS YOU WANT A 1pc ROD! I'm thinking i got some fiberglass resin running around at my mothers house and i know i do have some 5min epoxy somewere around here are they pretty mutch the same? im shure you guys would suggest the resin over the epoxy but if they are about the same thing it would save me the short trip out there...?

They are not the same thing.

Tip into butt ferrules are difficult to repair for fit because you are putting a smaller section into a larger section. Such a ferrule is not self adjusting for wear.

...............

Before you try these methods. try the field expediant method. Put some on rubber dishwahing gloves, grab the BLANK section on each end off the ferrule (do not butt against the guides!), place yoir hands behind your knees, and pull using your legs for the power.

John

John that would work in a normal situation, but he put a finish and wax on the male end and twisted to get it off. So he has seized it together. Personally I think it is stuck for life

Good Wraps Bob

The resin is preferable to epoxy as it is harder when set up. In any case be sure you allow plenty of time for the material to harden, this could be many days.

well i put some fiberglass resin on and sanded it down and got a pretty good fit the wobbles gone and it fit tight but it squeeked alitle when i shook it to test the fit. i immagine cause i dont have it perfectly smoothe and true so i spray panted it to cover up my earlyer goof and hopefully tighten it up to a perfect fit. looks like it will work.