Guides are bound to the rod with thread, not finish. That's where the strength is. The epoxy simply encapsulates the thread and protects it. You do want something, either CP or epoxy or both, to fill in the tunnels alongside the guide feet in order to create a bit of a "shoulder" which prevents rocking or movement of the flat guide foot on the round rod blank. .............
Forum: rodboard

It's not NFC's job to disseminate that information. They're a blank maker. They saw value in the system and extended the current chart to meet their needs. They aren't withholding anything from anybody. It's just not their responsibility to publish such things. They have other irons in the fire. I have the graph and will publish it as soon as I'm able to do so. If you're one of their customer
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I would suggest that you get on the backs of the dozens and dozens and dozens of fishing magazines out there and have them publish that information for you. I agree that they have been very lax in helping you guys out in this area. They certainly have access to the information. Not to pick on one in particular, but BassMaster's coverage of the CCS has been pitiful. Most of the people on this
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The CP will penetrate the thread. .............
Forum: rodboard

No, I feel the same way you do. But we have to remember that not all anglers treat their equipment the same way. Also, some kayak fishermen are launching and fishing in areas where rods do see a fair amount of rough handling. ................
Forum: rodboard

There is a graph in my possession that may be published in RodMaker in the near future. It cleverly takes into consideration the non linear aspect of the scale and goes up as high or higher than would ever be needed. I don't believe it has any sort of straightforward equation listed but you can ask Jason in High Point about how he devised it. ...........
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If you can find a popping blank in the casting range you want, you may be very pleased. But they're hard to come by in anything less than 7 feet. Most often I take 5'6" or 6' light power, fast action blanks, and extend them to 6'4" or 6'6" which also makes for an even faster action. If you have the Volume 7 #1 issue of RodMaker, you will find the recipe for a very nice smallmouth
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The results are exact, but they appear only on the charts listed, to the best of my knowledge. ..............
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I think you'd end up having to possess a great deal of practical experience in blank selection to really be able to do that with a high degree of success. In general you learn which manufacturers and which product lines have gained a good reputation for reasonable toughness and which ones seem to be failure prone unless treated with kid gloves. Even then, there are always less tough or more toug
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Ken, That's another way of looking at the same thing - all the blanks in the SCIV series are made from the exact same fiber, but they do not all possess the exact same amount of toughness or durability. This is due to differences in the structure from one model to another. ...............
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I wish I could offer more help but I've not had any practical experience with that particular chuck. ...........
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All you have to do is look at the Rosetta Stone chart or the chart given in the URRS article. The Common Cents System does not know the difference between a fly rod, and a spinning or casting rod. ...........
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Emory, I would hope that would be obvious to most folks. Perhaps not. But that was not my point. My point is that you cannot automatically assume that a blank made from a higher modulus material is going to be less tough or durable than one made from a lower modulus material. I keep hearing "apples to apples" but not all rod blanks are made with the same design criteria. I'm talk
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Not necessarily. How you use a material is equally important to the material itself. Any good blank maker can take the very highest modulus fiber and make a blank that is virtually indestructible by virtue of the structure's design. You would pay a weight penalty to do it, of course, but just looking at the fiber/material specs isn't going to tell you everything about the final attributes of the
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I assume you're chucking the bare butt end of the rod blank. Try wrapping a half dozen winds of masking tape around the blank butt where you chuck. This usually provides just enough cushion to give the chuck jaws something to bite into. ...................
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Not necessarily - the material is only part of the equation. The structure involved plays a major role in how durable a rod is going to be. The North Fork IM blanks sent to me for breaking turned out to be the very most durable blanks in terms of the abuse they would take before failing. In fact, we had to literally flog the daylights out of them to cause any sort of impact or fracture failure
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North Fork definitely has some like this. In our breakage article work we found them among the most difficult to break due to impact abuse. But I can't speak for the entire line of their product. Only the few selected models they sent. I'm not sure your best bet wouldn't be to back down a notch in modulus and go with a line that is known for some amount of durability. You'll give up a bit on t
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It's a reasonable question and in some cases you might well prefer to have a guide pull out. But as guides get smaller and trimmer they're actually less prone to hang on things and when they do they tend to come free more easily. ...............
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Very true. I have installed bass size casting reels on the rods in the device on a couple of instances. Yes it takes more weight to get a reel upright but not by a great deal. Of course this depends on the size and weight reels you're using. But even a large heavy duty boat or trolling reel will be help upright on a spiral rod under enough load. ................
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Something that just came to mind, it may be a long shot but worth a try. Fill a tube with some water. No immerse the tip section, tip down, into the water filled tube. Immerse the tip further than the location where the tape arbor is. The water that fills the tip from the small opening at the very tip may "float" the arbor up the tip enough so that it's no longer tight against the w
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Although not entirely rigid, you don't want that stuff left in there. The tip has to be able to flex unobstructed and anything that causes a sudden change in the flex at that point can cause breakage. Not sure you have enough there to do that, but I'd remove it. The suggestions about solvents or Goo-Gone might be the ticket. Even filling the tip with mere water and letting it soak could do it
Forum: rodboard

If you're not planning on reusing the seat, and it sounds like you're not, just spiral cut it and pop it off the rod. I would turn the grip down to a level just above that of the rod blank itself. Then bore/ream the new handle to fit that and install it over the old one. ................
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The exhibitors will be setting up on Friday, but only the exhibitors will be allowed in the Showplace exhibition hall on Friday. You will no doubt run into a ton of other builders in one of the hotels on Friday afternoon. ..................
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No, that's not necessary. ...............
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The higher the guides the greater the effect is going to be. .............
Forum: rodboard

What blanks are you using and how much weight is involved? As the load increases, the effect will become greater and greater. But you have to start with at least enough load to offset the reel weight - it won't take much but I'm betting you don't really have as much on there as think. .............
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That's pretty much impossible, so something is definitely wrong. When you say they "both turned to the bottom" exactly what do you mean? The guides on both should be on the bottom once you load the rods. Is this what you're talking about? Now if you have reels mounted and the load is not enough to offset the weight of the reel, just load the rod some more. The reel will spin to
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Penn used the corkscrew bar on some of their "Levelmatics" for many years. They may still be available. ............
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I would make the case that just as in many sports or hobbies, commercially made goods suit the needs of 95% of those participating, but there will always be a small number of participants at the top end of the spectrum that desire, and demand, something different or perhaps better in some way. You might also bring up the point that there are plenty of anglers who have physical requirements that
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