Never used this stuff before...

A. What kind of solvent works?
B. I'm just touching up the clear coat on a blank where some guides were relocated from. Will it work in just those areas as a touch up and be relatively unnoticeable or should I just do the whole blank?

Thanks again!!

Here is my Q&A thread, no specific answers to your questions, but it might help you out. I haven't got around to finishing my rod yet myself.

[rodbuilding.org]

It will be smooth on a rod blank, although how well it hides itself from the current blank finish has a lot to do with your application.

Try a spot repair before throwing in the towel and refinishing the entire blank.

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I was hoping for a question like this to come along! Doing a spot repair on a rod can be tricky especially if its in an area with just more than finish on the rod. I have done a few with more than adequate results. Matching things up is the tricky part. Your going to have to have a good finish procedure in place before attempting a repair. It needs to be compatible with whats on the rod already. I have done this successfully on rods with eye replacement using my own application procedure with Permagloss as the final finish. The best tip I can give you here for a repair like this is to make sure that the color on the rod has not been compromised and is still on the area of the repair. If it is intact you have saved your self a complete redo on the whole thing and can replace or move the guide into a different location. Both finish procedures for the guide and the final top coat finish should be successfully if the color is still present.

Simply scuff the area gently and prep surface before you begin you Permagloss finish procedure and apply your finish and allow it to dry hard ( use a small heater to help this along if anything) I usually give this a 24 hour dry time in a room 60 degrees or above. I am going to assume your experienced enough to know your prep procedures for adhesion purposes here. Once your PG is dry you can now finish up your wrap and guide placement (some might lightly scuff with scotch bright just in the area of the guide placement) no further scuffing is needed relay. The PG is still green enough the epoxy will adhere properly. Its the were you ended the PG is the tricky part! You should have masked up to an edge of an existing guide and the epoxy finish of that guide. Your gonna have an edge possibly high or low depending on your coats of PG finish. This will be coverage again with a coat of epoxy finish (be sure to to scuff properly) before applying your epoxy finish on the end areas were you masked from existing guides. This is a quick tell on how I do this with many more prep procedures in place for my application procedure. I am assuming you are experienced enough to follow along here with what I do here. You can get a good idea on how I do a repair with out having to strip the whole rod and keep things original for the customer.

Now if you do a search on PG you may find my procedure write up on how I spray PG with a air-brush, but you should b able to do the same repair with what ever application procedure you have for PG finish. Its just how I do it. I read your post and I thought! I know how you feel when you have a rod that just needs a spot repair and no need to strip it all for a redo and save on cost for the customer. I have done a few Croix's and Loomis rods for customers not wanting to send in for warranty and just get a new top replacement or for what ever reason they didn't want to part with there rod! Imagine that LOL . Customers can be funny about there fishing rods I can tell you that ! I hoe this helps Scott ...good luck!

Rick H.

rwheil@msn.com

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Thanks for the answers! I was actually a little anxious to do this and just brushed a very thin coat on where the old guides had been. It worked out as well as I could have expected. Most are nearly invisible and with the couple that aren't I will try a second coat and call it good. I'm just glad I can turn them back into functional rods and still have them look good.

I don't think it was an ideal solvent but alcohol did clean the brush fairly well.

i use mid temp lacquer thinner buy the pint i get at home depot for cleaning my brushes in a small mayonase jar

Bill - willierods.com