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Check out gamefaces.com - they make temporary tattoos. Sometimes the school bookstore/gift shop will have some and you can order over the phone. I've used them for several rods and they have come out very well. You have to soak them in water, so once you apply, just let them dry very well and then CP over the top. Never had an issue. Be aware of copyright and trademark violations. Most coll
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Joel - I apply finish at about 150 - 200 rpm. Load brush, hit pedal and let the finish go on. Come back and feather it to knock out the high ridges (looks like a spiral otherwise) and make the ridges go long ways. This feathering part I do with the rod not moving - lightly stroke long ways, turn the rod a bit, stroke - until I do all the way around. Sometimes I will make a couple strokes back the
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I've had no issue with DC's decals. No need for any fixative. I do quite a few a week and never have any problems with finish covering the decal. I've used several brands of finish as well. Like DR, I also apply over long runs when finish is thinnest (or fresh) and then do guides. Try a layer of finish, using a brush - lightly fan/feather the finish longways (kills the ridges) - stick it on
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Sean - I am 1 hour from Lake Murray, 1.25 hr from Santee Cooper, etc... drop me an email. Tom and JP are right. The landlocked (freshwater) stripers aren't shabby either. State record is around 76# and you see 15 - 25# fish brought in regularly. Seen two catfish over 100# brought in off Santee Cooper and who knows how many in the 20 - 60# range.
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Bingo... I should have been a little clearer on what I was saying but you caught it. A lot of folks tie off the line to a weight or other immovable object. They aren't letting it hang naturally. They are also using various angles, for holders. All of it impacts the bend.
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If you pull a string tied to the tip top, you can also influence the bend of the blank in an unnatural manner just as easily.
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Batson Forecast® hard aluminum-oxide guides with double-plated black chrome frames.
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What do you consider young?
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just something I thought folks would enjoy reading. If you aren't familiar with Great Longview, you probably are and don't know it.
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John Britt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Bill > this type of e-mail should be placed in the large > container on the floor or spam folder on the > computer,not paying to advertise is low and shows > the value of a product > just my two cents > John I bet his website got more hits today than ever off a simple, economical email. Y
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Dremel with cutoff wheel. I prefer using a diamond wheel. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the blank where you want to cut. The edge will give you a straight line and prevent splintering.
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Suggestions: Change "graphite modulus amount" to "materials of construction" Which one crankbait are you using? Skill level of the user?
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Jeff - I'm over in Aiken. If you are ever this way, you're more than welcome to stop by and see my shop set up. I chose a premade formica top for my bench. It was long enough. low glare, easy, and I can scrape it clean once I have finish, epoxy, etc built up on it.
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We agree on a lot. Agreed on different strokes. Sometimes certain situations require certain tools. The vast majority of my clients, competitors, and acquaintances left mono a long time ago for braid on topwaters for the reasons mentioned so I admit I am biased. This touches on BASS, FLW, ABA, IFA, and all stops in between. There could be a world of difference in the environments we fish, but
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Matthew - The item you bring up is easily compensated by an adjustment on the fisherman's part. You aren't supposed to set a hook until you feel the fish on anyway (or that's how I was taught). If you are too fast, mono isn't going to help you out. Hook setting - sharp hooks and braid need only a turn of the handle and you are engaged... you don't have to set the hook . Rod tip - soft tip al
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Braid is the only way to go on this rig. You need a nice light tip with plenty of backbone. No spiral. What you didn't say is what size spooks. Big difference in weight for the various sizes. As for length, you need to drill down more with your client. I have technique specific rods built for this ranging from backbouncing blanks at 7'9" alll the way down to lighter blanks at 6'6"
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The Magnuson-Moss Act lays out laws regarding warranties - expressed and implied. Also in many states there are additional laws making it a violation to require registration for a warranty to be binding. Basically the language says that failure to register does not diminish the terms of the warranty. Its widely recognized that warranty registration for any manufactured goods is a marketing fu
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what is the blank?
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Titebond III would be my choice. After that, the Elmers.
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Bob - just to make it a little easier for me, could you email me? contact@alxrods.com
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Hopefully everyone got the copy who wanted it. Just remember... all tip down rods become tip up rods at some point.
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I question the whole system personally - - consider the angle of line change from the spool to the stationary line guide - on today's baitcasters the guide disengages from the pawl gear regardless of position. It is possible to have line going off the far right of the spool and traveling out the left... that's an angle change of 60 degrees. The change angle coming from the reel to a size 4 st
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Jeremy - Send me an email and I'll gladly share an electronic version of Rich's original blue print sheet with you free of charge/ You'll find asome of what you want. It's old and some things have changed since Rich wrote it. Also, here is a list of the techniques - but keep in mind some techniques have evolved since Rich actively built and also some blanks/reels have changed to where some of
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Tom B - Sure Kistler has the plug and play website but if you call them direct, I believe you can expand your options. Do some research, make some contacts, ask some questions and watch the competition. You might be surprised what you find out. Again, there are others in the game doing the same. Not going to mention names (why help the competition right?) but here is what they say online: &qu
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Tom B- no offense but that's where you are partly incorrect. Several companies are now offering full custom build services in addition to their production line of "rack" rods. These are fully custom shops where rods are built 100% to customer specifications. They are doing the same thing as you but have the added benefit of marketing muscle and OEM purchasing which reduces their cost (h
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There are even more micro guide offerings - Dobyns, Pinnacle, and more - Year three of the "craze"! Not to mention: Bucky Paper, Nano Tubes, Nano Spheres, Tall Micros, Short Micros, 3831, Black Carrots, New blanks hidden in the hotel rooms...
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I personally wouldn't use but one size guide, all on top (my favorite on inshore is size 4s). It's been the choice for select redfish competitors and speck afficianados for some time now. Leader knots are very common among the inshore crowd since braid took over so definitely consider sizing for leader knots. Static spacing: When using micros, the line lightly touching the blank is accepti
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Robbie - you in Charleston? If so feel free to hit me up. I'm in Aiken and originally from Charleston. Be nice to touch base with another SC builder, plus I've built a few rods for what you mention.
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Ken - what size bait. Sounds a lot closer to a punch/flip rod than a drop shot. Are you calling it a drop shot because you are dropping it in the holes? Or are you truly finesse fishing? Usually fishing holes in grass requires something stout to get the fish out with grass all over it. Keep in mind... drop shotting is not always a light tackle technique. I know more than one person using a
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