Hi all,
The father of a friend recently asked me to build a light inshore baitcasting rod for use on spotted sea trout. So far my experience has been building inshore spinning rods on medium to light blanks. Most recently I have built using NGC & Fuji K guides and finishing up with #4 Fuji BLAGs on MHX-S842 blanks. This is an awesome rig for fishing DOA shrimp w/o a float or additional weight which is the way these guys fish (awesome reputation around here). The pressure is on.....he currently ownes several GLoomis rods.
Does NGC work with bait casters and are the micros as effective? What is a typical guide setup on a 7' rod? Do I need the reel on hand to place any of the guides? What is a typical reel seat placement using split grip (Fuji SK)? Any basic mistakes to avoid going from spinning to casting?
Thanks in advance. I have enjoyed this forum very much and learned a TON! Rod building truely IS an addiction.

Robbie - you in Charleston? If so feel free to hit me up. I'm in Aiken and originally from Charleston. Be nice to touch base with another SC builder, plus I've built a few rods for what you mention.

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Robbie,
From what you're describing, micro guide will work wonders on that sort of set up, as long as you can pass your line connections. The smallest guide possible is always the best.
In so far as guide spacing, you'll need to do a static test for an optimum set up followed by some test casting. Guide lines and charts are good for a starting point but test casting will tell you if you're on the money or not. And yes, the reel or one very similar is very helpful in this regard.
I assume you're wanting to know how long of a rear grip to use but that is something that really can't be told but felt. I have moderately long forearms, so I prefer a 8"-9" rear grip. But this is all dependent on how your friends likes to balance a rod. He may prefer a longer grip or shorter grip than what he already has. This is where feel comes into play.

Alex and Matt, thanks for your help.
Matt......what do you look for when static testing a bait caster. The spinnng static tests I can visualize, but bending the blank/rod from the top will be a different look. Just keep the line from touching the blank when stressed? Also, what is a typical butt guide size using a small bait caster? Again, thanks for your input. Is there a NGC primer for baitcasters? I didn't find one in the RB library.
Robbie

Robbie,
When I static test an all on top casting rod, I just look to make sure I have a nice even line flow that matches as close to the blanks deflection as possible. Line rub isn't really an issue for me but I do not want my line under the blank, unless I'm building a spiral wrap.
If I'm building a spiral wrap, I get my transition guides to get me a nice even flow around the blank and then the bottom guides to get an even flow with the blank.
Get your grips and reel seat installed and run your line through the taped guides and move them around until you get what you're looking for, then cast it and see how it feels. That's really the best way in my opinion.
I generally start with a 6 or 8 double foot guide as the butt then drop to 5's for the transition and then my runners. I feel like 6's are too high and 4's are a little short for the turn but again, that's just how I prefer to do them.

I personally wouldn't use but one size guide, all on top (my favorite on inshore is size 4s). It's been the choice for select redfish competitors and speck afficianados for some time now. Leader knots are very common among the inshore crowd since braid took over so definitely consider sizing for leader knots.

Static spacing: [www.rodbuilding.org]

When using micros, the line lightly touching the blank is acceptible when the blank is under full load. You rarely fully load a blank in fishing scenarios and if you do need to be thinking about using some reel drag to anyway. As for spacing the butt guide - don't be afraid to go out 27"+ (don't know your blank length) and space it just like any other guide. If there is line dropping below the blank , move the butt guide closer to the reel. Most of the time I space the butt guide and next one up first, then start at the tip.

Consider the rod holders since many salt boats use tube style vertical holders design for spin rigs. You may need a little longer handle to ride in them securely. Long casts are aided with longer handles that facilitate two handed casting - so another benefit there.

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