Mick: If you can check for a 16 as well, I'd be very appreciative!!! Whit
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Mick: If you can check for a 16 as well, I'd be very appreciative!!! Whit
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Friends: I am looking for a heavy duty SIC boat guide in gold color in size 12, and a tips around 16-18. The frame style is the Pac Bay BBHG. I know the Fuji SIC golds were discontinued years ago, but might anyone have any lurking around that they'd want to part with? My objective is to round out a set..... An alternative is to take a BBHG guide and paint it gold in color. Has anyone p
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Friends: I have an opportunity to go trolling for lake trout in way northern New England (Moore reservoir and the Connecticut lakes, also Lake Seymour or Willoughby). Sounds like a great excuse to build at least a couple rods. However, and am not very sure what rod(s) to make for this application. I will guess that we will be fishing on top as well as with downriggers. My preference is conv
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Also useful to know what length of sharks - in feet.
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I'd try out the reel in the reel seat before installing the seat. Seems logical, but that was another lesson hard earned for me....
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Gents: I wonder if anyone has tried painting a guide in bright gold finish. My problem is thus: I have some nice gold plated SIC boat guides but no matching tip. This color on a sturdy boat tip now appear to be unavailable out there. Soooo....I'm thinking get out the rattle can and get to work. Any other tips/experiences out there? Words of caution? Whit
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Northeast partyboats recommend a 7-8' "jigging rod" for cod and other species. Not having done this style of fishing I would appreciate any input on the right blanks, grips, guides, etc. or other features that make them unique. Thanks in advance! Whit
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An alternative which I have done for this type of situation is to use a piece of aluminum tubing on the outside of the blank. Shimmed up with drywall tape and epoxied into place. Handle materal over that to suit; with probably the easiest being cork tape.
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Thanks Guys: I think I might try a preformed full wells, then If I feel lucky turn it down a bit. Whit
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Folks: I remember reading recently on the board about how the 1/2 wells and cigar grips were just not quite right for even small fly rods. Went back and searched but could not find the thread. Something about hand comfort. So I wonder if I ought not to install a full wells grip on this somewhat delicate blank. Until now I have reserved my saltwater rods for full wells handles, and 1/2
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In the past I have lengthened one piece blanks of various types, by using aluminum tubing. The butt extensions have ranged from an inch or two to several feet. It has worked, and I never really thought about it much from a structural perspective. Now I am getting ready to assemble a 2 piece 11' surf blank that is destined to be the (for now) ultimate rod for slinging the (1 1/2 -2 oz) iron
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I prefer the full wells for this application, and recommend it.
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I'm now redoing a number of tuna rods I originally tied up in the 80's and 90's. In those days I was quite exuberant with the Flex Coat finish, and probably put on 5 coats or even more. The issue now is removal of the flex coat. Aged with time and the elements, the finish has become rock hard and hard to slice into, even with a fresh razor. I am thinking heat might soften it up, but w
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Folks: Inspired by a recent set of postings on this subject, I ordered a Gator Glass T80XH blank, which just came in this morning! I'm now trying to figure out where to ideally place the reelseat. I suspect the answer lies in a response to a second question, that is: when you haul back on the fish do you tuck the butt under your right armpit (if you are right handed) or under the left
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The single foot Fuji's are ceramic guides - looks like hardaloy. A "line taming guide"? Hmmmm... please tell more. Also, how many strippers should I use before the single foots. My largest of the single foots looks like about a sz 10 using MOAE (Method Of Ailing Eyeball) Thanks! Whit
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I have a nice five piece 9' 9 wt IM8 blank, full wells grip, aluminum seat and little 2" fighting butt (not the tarpon ball), ready for assembly. Also have a supply of stripper guides, snake guides, plus a set of single foot fuji flu guides, if needed. Most of my fly rods are not the fanciest, but I really want to do this one right. The quarry will be most likely redfish, seatrout and
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Definitely get the radiused gimbal. It will help on pump and grind, which is the technique for harness fishing the cow yellowfin. Set it up so the radius goes vertical, not sideways. If you later decide to go rail, then just stick a rubber buttcap on the end of the gimble. As far as guide configuration, my .02 would be to leave things where they are until you catch a YFT in the 120 lb p
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I'm also interested in this answer, but can go upward in price if need be to a Seeker/Calstar/Lami etc.. Are there blank model numbers you can recommend? Or length, butt diameter, tip dimensions? Thanks in advance Whit
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If it were me, I'd not use the wind-on stripper. The regular AFTCO HD series can handle loop to loop spectra connections of 300 lbs easy. Although If I was doing large diameter mono (80 lb plus) with big knots, I suppose the Wind On would work. One other consideration is reel size. If a "70" size or larger, a Wind-on has good height so there is not a steep angle for the lin
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The thing about 1066 didn't quite sound right, as the longbow came into its own 150 years later during the hundred year's war. I googled this off the internet: In the Hundred Years War the long bow was used by the English to a devastating effect. The long bow was also effective in naval battles. At the Battle of Sluys in 1340, English archers poured a devastating longbow attack on tightly pa
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