I'm repairing a cork handle for a fellow that said the car door slammed on the handle. A chuck of cork is broken out. As I removed the cork near the butt, I saw a two 3" cracks in the blank running along the axis of the blank. When I squeeze the butt end of the blank flexes due to the cracks. This is a 7'11" baitcasting flippin rod with a 10 1/2" handle. My question is, if I put on a new cork handle will the rod be okay or will the crack continue? Can I reenforce this area by bonding a 6" insert into the butt?

Thanks,
Jim

I'd reinforce, especially if he ever leaves it in a rod holder (I assume this is the rear grip, correct?)

I would run a piece of solid fiberglass rod up as far as the full length of the grip assembly, epoxy it in, bind it and let it dry, then maybe even a overwrap for safe keeping,, it won't be seen as you will cover it up with the cork and it should be ok.

Fred, A SOLID rod?? Don't you think that would add unnecessary weight to a portion of the rod that sees little stress (Again, unless it is being fished out of a holder)

I agree with Fred yse a solid peice of galss. You can at time get away with using graphite. As for extra weight I do not believe you well notice it. Ralph O has made many posts on blank repairs using solid glass
Good Wraps Bob

Bob, just to make sure we are on the same page here I am interpreting Fred's post to mean that that he reccommends using a SOLID fiberglass rod for the length of the entire grip, not a blank made from fiberglass. I agree a small piece of fiberglass blank material should be used, but a solid piece along the entire length would have to add tremendous weight to the rod for a fracture in a spot that sees little stress (Again I am assuming that this is the rear grip and not being fished out of a holder)

Hi Scott. I think you and I are on the same weave length. When I repair a cracked butt . I extend my glass 1 inch be on each side of the crackI use Rod Bond.Once the plug is in place I bend it tight with wrapping thread. After it dries I leave the thread and just cover it up with cork. Jame did not mention. How he was going to replace the the cork he removed. That is a whole differnt process. Which is eas to do.
Good Wraps Bob

I reread the original post and since this is a flipping rod I can safely assume it will not be fished out of a holder and therefore little stress will be exurted on this section of the blank. That is why I mentioned going with a thin walled section of fiberglass blank to keep the weight down. This will provide more than adequate proptection while maintaing the lowest possible weight increase. If the break occured further up the blank then I agree more protection may be needed but in this case a section of Fiberglass rod blank would more than suffice.

The only problem with using a solid or any internal piece is that most flipping sticks have collapsing handles so they are easier to transport or store in rod locker. Placing a piece inside will prevent it from doing so.

I would suggest either putting a piece over the out side or removing the guides (at least the larger ones may slip over the smaller) and replace the handle piece with another handle piece. Or cut the back end off another maybe broken rod that will match up with the telescoping portion of the blank. You want about 6" of over lap when fully extended.

I wouldn't use a solid piece of anything - you'll create a stress point just ahead of where it stops. Sleeve the inside with a tubular piece of scrap rod blank.

If you run into the situation that Steve mentions above, then remove the old cork and oversleeve the outside and then replace the cork over the top of that. I am assuming the cracks do not continue up past the length of the rear grip.

............

Thanks guys - The cork rear grip is 10 1/2" and I did peel the cork off the blank. That is when I discovered the cracks. I can't slide something over the blank from the top without removing guides, foregrip and the reel seat of this one piece casting rod (this rod is not telescopic). I can insert a walled fiberglass piece from the butt and reinstall the rear grip from the butt end. I'll have to add some drywall tape to ensure a snug fit of the handle. Thanks again for the inputs.

Jim

James email me and I well send you direction on how to replace the cork you removed warren334@myway.com
Good Wraps Bob PS your email is hidden

I just did a rebuild/repair this evening with nearly the exact same conditions. Scott's advice is on the mark. This is not neccessarily a high stress area. If you build it up too much, it could impact the performance by throwing off the balance. A lightweight splice should be all that is needed.

An alternative which I have done for this type of situation is to use a piece of aluminum tubing on the outside of the blank. Shimmed up with drywall tape and epoxied into place. Handle materal over that to suit; with probably the easiest being cork tape.