I only wish I could get a rod done in two coats. I'm talking about heavier saltwater rods. I'm doing four rods right now for a charter captain. Using Aftcote I'm putting on 4 coats and still seeing a thread here & there atop the guide feet. So far I've put a coat of LS high build on top to solve the problem. I try to do thin coats to get a more level finish, but then it seems to take m
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Tommy asked "after opening what is the life?" If you're talking about turning yellow, it doesn't have to be open to change colors. As far as the epoxy itselft, Putter explained that it will last for years. I wrap all my hardener containers in aluminum foil and keep them in a closed cabinet. Sort of like a 1-2 punch. U-40 has gotten smart and started packaging their hardener in
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His guide wraps will be black NCP. Paragraph 3, last sentence. Jay
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Just like Spencer said. The only reason for CP over metallics is to seal the threads in place. There is no fear of the metallic colors fading like regular nylon would do. Think of it this way. If you went to 'observe' a wet-t-shirt contest would you rather the contestants wear a white cloth t-shirt or a wrap of Reynolds Aluminum Foil? Metallic threads would act as the aluminum foil would i
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Good tip Bill. Jay
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Another reason to wait for the finish to kick is so the little nibs you slice off won't stick to the finish. Been there...those things are hard to get off if the finish isn't set. Jay
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Eyeball upside down like Barry's method...of course after getting at least one lined up with the seat. Jay
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I made a simple tensioner much like what Bill described. Threaded rod (or bolt), washers, spring, and wing nut. When I need to run the blank backwards I simply take one hand and turn the thread back on the spool. No unravelling on the blank. Jay
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CP will help seal the underwrap making it easier to wrap over, but that's the only benefit you'll get. A light coat of your Flex-Coat will do the same thing. If you are using a larger thread for the guide wraps than you did for the underwraps, you should be ok even without coating the underwrap. I assume you are familiar with NCP black. In case you aren't, be aware it tends to finish a light
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So it's ok to add pigment to Permagloss? I had not thought of that. Sure would be faster than painting, THEN clearing. Do it all in one step. Great method...thanks. Jay
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I always takes multiple coats for me on saltwater rods. There always seems to be some thread ridges that just won't go away on top of the guide foot somewhere. Only a time or two have I got one finished with just two coats. Normally it's three or more. Jay
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To fix the problem you already have, do as Travis said. Carefully slice off any unwanted bumps with a new single-edge razor & recoat. It's likely you will have to do this to at least one wrap on every rod you build...I sure do. Jay
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Here's a little something for question #1. I lay out all my wraps on an index card (4x6) before doing any wraps. Each guide of differing size has it's layout card. Along the 6" edge I make small marks with a pencil. I start by eyeballing the center of the card an making a mark on the edge. I then mark where the guide feet should go in relation to the center of the wrap (for two footed g
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If you don't want to use CP on the underwrap, try Permagloss. This will give the bond you're looking for and seal the threads making the guide wraps easier on you. You should be able to wrap A on top of A with no problems after the base wrap is sealed. I also fix guides to the blank/underwrap with masking tape. Never noticed any fuzzy lifting, but then again you're wrapping over the area wh
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OOPS, didn't pick up on what you said about not saving the ferrule. If you don't want to save it, go the Dremel route. Jay
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I have recently been trying Aftcote. So far I like it although we got off to a shakey start. The first batch I mixed tacked up and stayed that way. I coated with LS high build to fix the problem. After shelving the Aftcote for a few weeks I decided to give it another go. It does take considerably longer to set up than my other epoxy (LS reg & high build). I also believe that because o
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I have used boiling water (actually just off the boil) for removal of fresh Rod Bond. If you used Rod Bond, this method should work. Be patient as it may take several dunkings to get the job done. I used channel lock pliers with a towel to protect the object being removed. Jay
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Stan, I know many boat builders around here that would be glad to take a few truck loads of that nuicance juniper off your hands. LOL Jay
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As of now I think I've cured the 'problems' I had when using the 950yd spools of A & 650yd spools of D. I think alot of the problems were self-inflicted with the way I routed my thread after leaving the spool. A problem still exists, to some degree, with the spools of Sulky metallic...although I think I can solve that also by re-routing the thread a little. Jay
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In my mind, I consider any guide that is set between 0 & 180 degrees 'transition' guides. Even the butt guide, when set off center, is a trans guide to me. To me the term 'transition' comes into play at the point the line leaves top-dead-center (0 degrees) and begins it's path to the 180 position. This is indeed a transition from top to bottom. That transition will always be a spiraling a
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For some reason, when using the longer spools, my tensioner wants to pull the apart at the magnets when the thread gets close to the outer edge. I can only remedy this by adding more paper to slicken things up thereby reducing tension. Jay
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Ko you are absolutely correct. Too much tension is a bad thing. Keep in mind that when I increase tension above my 'normal' level I'm doing it on saltwater blanks. More specifically, I increase thread tension a little when wrapping heavy stand-up and trolling blanks. These are thick walled sticks to begin with...much different than a 4wt fly rod or even a 12# graphite spinning rod (just examp
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No they don't harm the thread...they can't. What I mean when I say I use them on all but the tightest of wraps is this: on heavy saltwater rods (ie. stand-up tuna and trolling rods) I don't feel the @#$%& tensioner is capable of wrapping tight enough. Most guides I've wrapped with my @#$%& tensioner(s) have been have been very easy to move (adjust) before I apply any finish. This isn't a conc
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Somebody has been watching too much Donald Trump. lol just kidding around. Jay
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Those Fuji's are Gold Cermet guides. These are metal alloy rings and supposed to be the best available. The frames are also titanium...not coated. This is why they are so costly. Jay
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My threads run through a stainless eye bolt. So far no snags. I also have 2 @#$%& thread tentioners...had them for almost 6 months now. I use them for almost all but the tightest of wraps. Jay
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For casting rods I will do the O'Quinn method and at least try to get the straightest path I can. For trolling rods I will do a simple revolver method and spiral around in two guides...fast & easy. Do a deflection test for the remaining 180 guides. Jay
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Hey come up with a SiC lined tube and I bet that 'hole through the blank' trick would work reel slick! Jay
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I got a single 900(+) yds spool of size A thread in the mail a few days ago. Shipping...$0.62 Jay
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Drill a hole through the blank and run the line straight off the reel to the underside? LOL Jay
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