Just cancelled an order I have been waiting for for 2 months. Seems the post office returned the package and now they want me to pay shipping again. Not what I call quality customer service and they have lost me as a customer.
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys. :)
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Thanks for the info Tom.
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Thanks a lot fellas. Now I just have to choose my colours. :) One more question. When under wraping and or double over wraping what is the best way to get a good looking wrap? Do you lay on a coat of finish between layers?
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I'm going to be building a heavy saltwater rod for halibut and would like to know what size thread I should be using for my under wraps and double over wraps. What say you, saltwater building dudes? :)
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Thanks for the info. Waiting to hear back on leader, but mot likely it will be heavier than 80#.
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I'm looking to build a halibut rod for a friend in Alaska and am looking for blank options. I'm looking for a blank in the 4'8" to 5'6" range. He generally runs 80# braided line on his halibut sticks. He does a combination of jigging and bait fishing. I could also use suggestions on what type of guides to use as this will be my first saltwater build. Another question I have is on ha
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You probably see a difference in a rod that heavy. You would do well to add some lead in the butt or you could end up with some serious wrist and elbow issues with prolonged use. I have a 15' 9/10 wt spey I'm building as a float rod for baby tarpon to 30 or 40 pounds. :) I have put king salmon to 45# & carp to 55#'s on the bank with my old 16' custom Fenwick float rod loaded with 4# test
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Here are some of mine made with Cottonwood Bark.
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I've been using Batson solid glass saltwater blanks and cutting them down. These make great pike and lake trout rods. .385"x.105"x72" Black 6'0" 1 12-20 LB n/a 0.385 7.0 Moderate n/a Solid glass bottom fishing $10.52
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Hey Todd Are you going to be making the 13 and 14 in 3 pce? Also I would like to see them in 6#-12#. :)
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Yes indeedy!!! It's very nice Tom.
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Nice job on the site revamp Steve. :)
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Personally I like using a CA finish. Using a pure CA (no BLO) you can get a beautiful high gloss finish. Here are some examples. :)
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Yes, lower modulus blanks are usually tougher and less prone to breakage due to rough handling. Higher modulus blanks are more sensitive and lighter than similar low modulus blanks how ever. So depending on the application the trade off for more sensitivity over less durability could be worth it. :)
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I turn my butt caps separately, and then slip the butt cap and cork blank on my mandrel and sand down the cork. I don't attach them together until I am mounting on the rod. The reason for this is because I put my finish on the cap before assembly. It is also much easier to mount pins/coins in the butt cap this way. For accent wood and wood rings I glue it all up and turn.
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Hmmmm, lets see. I have a 6'X8' shop area where I turn my handles and do other work that is messy or dusty (it's just inside the front entrance to my place (no basements or garage here)). On my coffee table in the living room I tape on guides, glue up handles and grind guides. LOL In my bedroom I have a 6' desk where I wrap and finish.
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Bill The long round green thing is called a 'round tuit'. When your wife asks you when are you going to do some chore she asked you to do and you say 'when I get a round tuit'. She will hand you one of those and kick you in the butt!!! LOL
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I beleive you are looking for one of the many types of crimp connectors. Have a look here to find what you are looking for and then order online or locally.
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I also have tossed one on the dryer just to get it done for a trip. I'm now in the middle of fixing it right. :) The blanks were a couple of months late coming up from New Zeland so I was left with little time before my annual trip to Alaska to get er done. The hook keeps were just CP'd and you could surf the waves on the guide finish. LOL
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I usually use 6" and 12" stainless rulers but also use regular tape measures on occasion. I really like the 6" for laying out wraps becuse it is small and easy to manouver.
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As soon as it starts to get warm I switch from Threadmaster High Build to Threadmaster Lite, for the added pot life. I'm so dang slow at applying finish it would set up well before I was ready for it to. :)
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Great news Bill!!!! Love those XST Steelhead blanks!!!! Need a 15 footer. :wink: :wink:
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I use solid glass Batson saltwater blanks 6' long rated for 12# to 20# line and cut them from the butt to 42". .385"x.105"x72" Black / White 6'0" 1 12-20 LB n/a 0.385 7.0 Moderate n/a Solid glass bottom fishing $10.22 They make very good laker rods and aren't heavy. If you want to see it in action check out this video (my buddy is landing a 20# class fish lat
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When I first started fly fishing I also liked a "softer" rod as it forgave my newbie technical errors. As I became a better caster I ended up switching to faster rods because I found that I was able to cast much tighter loops and be much more accurate casting into a wind. Most of my rods are fast actioned with one exception. I have a moderate/fast 2wt that loads better at the shorter di
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I like a skeleton with a cork insert or you can use a pair of rings for a really light approach. Personally I am not a fan of rings, but they are light. Here is a light skeleton with cork insert I did on a 3wt spinning conversion. You can substitute a nice recessed Batson for a cleaner look.
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I learned my lesson early with the composite corks. I now always drill out my handles and glue in brick foam arbors to cut down on weight.
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There are various viscosities of superglue for wood finishing also. Pick one of the thicker versions as it's working time is extended. i.e. Special T
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Buzz Look at the Batson travel blanks they have several models in RX6 & RX7 graphite and from medium to X-Heavy action..
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Something like this? DOH, you beat me to it!!! LOL
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