My experience is the same. Have been using braid for years, and have NEVER broken a rod while fishing. (I have had defective blanks that broke 1st trip, but those obviously don't count.) I think your problem is guys who are just very rough on their tackle. I've fished with several people who tend to break rods. Almost every time, I yell, "Stop! You're going to.... CRRAACK!!! Ge
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Terry and Bill. Thanks for the encouragement. I read up on Tom's tutorial, and I'm feeling much better about tackling this repair. Now I'm wondering if an oversleeve will be enough, or should I run a new ferrule up inside the top section and then oversleeve both of them? Would that be overkill? Any thoughts? Thanks, and I also thank you, Tom for the excellent turorial! I know how muc
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Just took a look at the REC site. It looks like the stuff, but I don't see any tip guides, besides the fly guides... Is this a mistake, or don't they make them? Other than that, they look like the right thing. The tip guide I'm talking about had a double coil of wire, just like the REC running guides. Not like a fly guide. Anyone else know about this? Thanks. -TH
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Thanks for the leads, guys. Will check out REC immediately. Strangely, I can't remember the color... Either gold or chrome, but I can't remember which right now. Will have to call Lloyd and ask. Hopefully, I can find the exact ones. It was nicer than the original SIC, in my opinion. -TH
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Gentlemen, Thanks for the replies. This rod is about 6 years old. No possibility of warranty claim. It broke during a cast(Not a high-stick break) It snapped clean, right above the top ferrule. The only thing I can imagine working well is sleeving it on the outside, down to the end of the ferrule, as you mention, Terry. I think I'd leave the old one inside, instead of replacing it, j
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This is probably a dumb question, but I've been out of the loop since we moved a few years ago... A friend of mine shattered the ceramic in his tip guide, and it got replaced with what appeared to be a simple wire guide. (no ceramic insert). He fishes braid in the salt, so it looked like it would never last... Well, it turns out, it's some kind of titanium alloy, and it's held up well for
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I had the tip section of a 2-pc, 10-wt fly rod break about 3/4" above where the bottom blank ends. Very clean break, 90 degrees to the blank. Almost like it was cut right at the end of the reinforcement wrap. (Too much tension on the wrap???) Normally, I'd use an interior spline, but the location won't allow it. Is my only option to strip all the guides and install an exterior spline
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I found some inexpensive 10wt fly blanks a while back, and they are GREAT for crappie fishing. Might want to check around, but I think it was D&E rods, and Mud Hole, where I got mine, but I can't remember. -TH
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Shoot through the grip. The little holes the needle makes won't be an issue unless you pump in too much epoxy and it squeezes out of the holes, which will make "hard" spots in the grip. Hope you get it fixed. -TH
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The only rod I've ever broken while fishing did the exact same thing on the first decent fish I hooked. The blank was defective. In my case, the defective rod was replaced, and I still have that replacement somewhere, with no issues. Was this rod new, or years old? Have you ever "bruised" this rod? -TH
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Heat gun should soften it up enough to get it off if you used epoxy. Some varnishes are very tough. Best wishes! -TH
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I use 10-12" rear grips on my similar rods regularly. Also depends on the length of the reel seat, which can make up some of the difference. I'd tell you to give it a shot as-is. Too long a reel seat, and you will lose effective casting length anyway. Try getting used to the "normal" size grip and see if you like it in the end. You can always cut it off later if you hate
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Rodney, Use thread as is typical, and then add your finish cover material with a slighly enlarged hole. Use a silicone bedding, which will allow flex without adding pressure. 1/16" should be plenty of clearance, and the silicone should do the rest. Just a thought to help your idea work. -TH
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I have discovered that after painting, letting the rod "bake" in the sun for a day, turning it so all the paint can "cure" properly, makes for a much tougher finish. I guess the UV light and the warmth helps everything bond properly. Why not touch up the paint and let the rod bake in the sun for a day, before wrapping? -TH
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A yellow Stanley nail set works GREAT for both packing and burnishing, in my experience. -TH
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I had some MAJOR problems with flex coat CP! Turned out it was old stock from a shop that didn't sell much, or it had gotten frozen, or something like that. Either way, I moved over to #811, (THANK YOU, TOM!) and I'll never go back. Just my personal experience. -TH
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Locktite makes a great product that is similar. Never had a failure in the last 5 years, for what it's worth. TH
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I've always used a razor and sliced out only enough of the damaged area to fit a repair piece in. Make the repair piece very slightly large so you really have to squeeze it in tight. Epoxy and tape it tightly and let the epoxy set. Sand, and it disappears if everything was cut right.. Better than paste, in my opinion, unless you are talking about filling in minor voids and imperfections.
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For what it's worth, I did something similar, with very good results. I purchased a 24" retractible butt section from Mudhole.com, and mounted it to a Loomis blank. I did it the traditional way, with the rod going up through the butt section, and held there by friction while in use WORKS GREAT! I added reinforcement wrapping to the top and bottom of the section, to avoid splittin
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Aaahhh...... Thank you, Gentlemen! -TH
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Greetings. I need help finding a similar reel seat to these: Fuji makes them, and I purchased some a few years ago, but I cannot currently find a supplier. Does anyone know where I can buy these seats? I've got the cork, I only need the seats. Thanks! -TH
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Luis, Personally, for jigging and popping, my favorite blanks have been G. Loomis and Rogue. The reason is they have power down low, a fast taper and they are very sensitive and light in the hands. The down side is they are $$$. But I am primarily a casting and jigging kind of fisherman in light saltwater applications, so this may not help you. -TH
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Sounds like a sales pitch to me. I somehow think bolt cutters would get the ring off... IF he is so sure about how hard the metal is, he should prove it with some bolt cutters. I somehow doubt he would, though...
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