I always shyed away from the bass rod market a little, mostly because of breakage isssues. Over the last year I have found that moving to moderate action blanks vs. traditional fast actions, breakage rates are really low. Most guys seem to over-line rods with no-stretch braids, and a lot of them have some pretty wicked hook sets, but the moderate actions really shine here.

Has anyone else seen the same thing?? Occasionally it's a little harder sell to guys that still want really fast stuff, but not as big a deal as I thought it would be.

***Mostly talking conventional wrapped bait casters here.

For guys that I have dealt with, I have had to explain that with going to braid, something else has to give since there is no stretch in the line. The thing that has to change is the blank of the rod to a more moderate action. I have had some ask about keeping the action the same when using braid, but I have told them that they would probably end up breaking the rod or damaging the reel since there is no stretch. Most do understand this and have liked it going to a moderate action rod when using braid.

Call me crazy but....The only rod I build in mod action would be for treble hooked lures like crankbaits for instance. I've used braids since before they were popular, WAY before. Not once have I had a rod fail due to my line. This stretches the boundary from bass rods, striped bass rods and to Musky rods. I fish often, we have stripers here on a nearby lake that go well above 20lbs, the hits will about take the rod from your hand: 50lb braid, medium heavy mag bass casting rods, and the drags cranked down as tight as we can get them. We upgrade all out hooks to 4X strong hooks to prevent the fish from straightening them out! That is a fact. We have broken ZERO rods. When the fish wants to run, point the rod tip at the fish, otherwise fight as normal. I wouldn't even consider a moderate or moderate fast rod, I want that faster action. Our rods are bent into the reel seats over and over without fail.

I think most rods are broken due to abuse like being banged around, high sticked and so forth. I can see where lighter powered rods with slower actions could help and these are most likely what you're describing. But still, even then I think it's a matter of tip size. The X-Fast rods and rods with thinner tips just cant take the abuse. I like seeing most rod tips in the 5.0-6.0 range for bass.... and stripers on that higher scale.

DR

The problem is that few bass fishermen will ever accept the fact that it is their harsh treatment and poor fish fighting technique that causes their rods to fail. They will always blame it on the rod. "I just set the hook on a dink bass and the rod snapped like a twig!"

Marc

98% of the rods I build and sell are to bass fishermen that I would classify as "experienced" to "very experienced professionals". These rods range from moderate to extra fast with most being fast or extra fast. My warrenty rates currently are 2% for "stupid stuff" and 1% for legitimate reasons. Many of them are 'over-lined' and there are even some Bubbas who don't believe in having drags on their reels.

I say all this to make a point that I believe it is the less experienced bass fisherman that breaks the majority of the rods and this is the primary reason that many on this board continue to preach the benefits of educating our customers on their proper use.

So, you make valid points but I feel that you will be limiting yourself too much if you try to steer a customer away from what he wants, or thinks he wants, because bass fishermen (I'm sure other types do also) use and want a very large variety of different actions for their task specific rods.

Bobby Feazel

[www.shockwaverods.com]

Conventional wisdom will not open the box.

Right, if you select the blank and build the rod solely to limit breakage, it may no longer function well for the task it's intended for.

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Thanks everyone! I agree Bobby - most of the breakage I deal with is from the "newbie/wanna-be" crowd. You can generally pick them out pretty quick when talking to them. They grab a rod off the rack and check the action by grabbing the rod a foot down from the tip and flexing it. When I start to explain why that's not a good practice I often get the deer-in-the-headlites look.

Any tips for educating customers?

Thanks,
Marc

Yes, RodMaker Magazine.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

If that link won't open the article, just go to the online library here and find the article on how to eliminate broken rods.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/02/2009 01:42PM by Tom Kirkman.

The all inclusive warranty replacement feature of most fishing rods allows a fisherman to select the wrong rod, missuse it in any manner and get a new one each time he breaks it. In the case of production rods the warranty is covered in the initial purchase or the company is soon out of business or operating under another name. If the custom builder is faced with warranty replacements he soon discovers that he is the looser. It is a custom builders task to provide the correct rod for the technique with acceptable durability features for the angler. It is highly advisable the custom builder selects blanks and components that match the market for his sales and determine the actual usage requirements for each customer. There are blanks available that meet the necessary criteria for functionality and durability at many differenct levels. If the custom builder is "not in tune" the design functionality, durability features and angler skills he will soon pay the price by mitigating breakage issues.

I have rods that I sell that are very fast and I spend a few minutes explaining the benefits and draw backs of these rods with my clients before I build one. Of course, there's no accounting for stupidity. I was out with a client that had a light action extra fast finesse rod of mine and he wanted to boat flip a fish that weighed over 7 pounds. He couldn't believe it when I told him "don't do that". When he asked me afterwards, I said "hey, it's your money, if you want to abuse the rods I sell you, no problem. Just don't expect any warranty coverage".

I'm not G Loomis. I don't offer an unconditional exchange policy. If that's the kind of service someone is looking for, then I'm not the guy to build their rods.

It isn't limited to just rods either. Factor guides into that equation.

Had a customer who ripped off four guides through the threads... yes thru the thread wraps!

It was a perfect rip across the top, the forhan locking wrap was busted.

He first said "Guide wraps have lifetime warranty right?" "Yep" and he showed me the rod.

After the astonishment of four guides being gone he fessed up and said what he did.... stuck a jig and used the rod to break his 20# flouro off in about 20 mph wind. To further matters, he showed me the big cut on his hand where the line had broken and came back to the reel and sliced his hand open. Yeah... not my fault on that one and he paid to have it rewrapped.

Again... user error. I couldn't believe the rod survived it.

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I have noticed recently on several BASS and FLW shows that the "pros" break plenty of rods! Of course if they are provided for you... I have found over the years that I prefer faster actions on lighter powered blanks (for bass fishing) and more moderate actions for "MH" power and up. I do not consider breakage at all when selecting and building but prefer the slower actions for keeping the fish buttoned up.

My experience is the same. Have been using braid for years, and have NEVER broken a rod while fishing. (I have had defective blanks that broke 1st trip, but those obviously don't count.)

I think your problem is guys who are just very rough on their tackle. I've fished with several people who tend to break rods. Almost every time, I yell, "Stop! You're going to.... CRRAACK!!! Generally, they are high-sticking a 20# striper, or grabbing the rod a foot below the tip to pull a green fish boatside.

Operator error 96% of the time, and line has nothing to do with it any of the times I have witnessed.

-TH