I had the tip section of a 2-pc, 10-wt fly rod break about 3/4" above where the bottom blank ends. Very clean break, 90 degrees to the blank. Almost like it was cut right at the end of the reinforcement wrap. (Too much tension on the wrap???)

Normally, I'd use an interior spline, but the location won't allow it. Is my only option to strip all the guides and install an exterior spline?

Are any of you good at doing these kinds of repairs? If so, how much would it cost if I shipped the rod to you? My email is tonyhill@tidalwave.net.

Thanks.

TH

It almost sounds like a defective rod blank. If the break looks like it was cut and no splinter. I would talk to the company, before doing any repairs,

Good Wraps Bob

Any sort of hard impact in that area could have caused it. How old was the rod? How much use had it seen?

...........

This is also a likely spot for a break if you high stick or hairpin a rod, speaking from personal experience. The ferrule is reinforced, typically and stressing past 90 degrees can cause this.

You'll need an external fiberglass sleeve as noted in the repair article in the library. You may have to make it long enough to replace the old ferrule, depending on where the break is.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Terry

Gentlemen,
Thanks for the replies. This rod is about 6 years old. No possibility of warranty claim. It broke during a cast(Not a high-stick break) It snapped clean, right above the top ferrule.

The only thing I can imagine working well is sleeving it on the outside, down to the end of the ferrule, as you mention, Terry. I think I'd leave the old one inside, instead of replacing it, just for a good fit.

Would anyone have any suggestions on where to get a repair piece? Everything I have found so far has way too much taper for a fly rod... I could build up with thread, but I'd rather find a piece with a longer taper.

Thanks.

-TH

Tony,

Most of us get repair stock from old fiberglass rods from friends, garage sales, etc. You can buy a bundle of repair stock from Lamiglas, or maybe find an inexpensive glass blank to use. No set source, just wherever you can find it.

Terry

Tony,

IMHO, you ae thinking along the right lines with the oversleeve. One suggestion......well maybe a couple,,,,,, I would have is, 1) Try to use the thinnest wall fiberglass oversleeve that you can. Remember, your ferrule is already reinforced. 2) Make sure you make a fairly flat taper on the tip side of the oversleeve. If you leave it straight cut, you run the risk of creating another failure point. Tom, If I'm wrong please correct me. As for finding the correct taper repair stock, you can certainly get a lifetime supply from Lamiglass, as Terry stated. But I agree with him also that you would be better served to buy a low cost fly blank that is very close to the taper you need and take your stock from that. Believe me, it won't be money wasted, as there will be plenty more repairs come down the pike where you can use it. Try the un named popular @#$%& site for used ones as well as blanks. They're there to be had for sometimes a song.

Bill in WV

Terry and Bill.

Thanks for the encouragement. I read up on Tom's tutorial, and I'm feeling much better about tackling this repair. Now I'm wondering if an oversleeve will be enough, or should I run a new ferrule up inside the top section and then oversleeve both of them? Would that be overkill? Any thoughts?

Thanks, and I also thank you, Tom for the excellent turorial! I know how much work it is to make a tutorial like that! You convey the thought process behind the actions very well. I REALLY appreciate all of your help to me over the years.

-TH

Look up Ralph O'Quin repair article