PB691MXF it is. Thank all of you as usual.
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Lynn, Prefer something in 7' or 7'3" if that is possible. If the 6'9" is the best option than I can go with that.
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Could someone give me an idea of which blank would make a really good topwater casting rod, not frogs but twitch, popping style, popr, chug bug, smaller walking baits, devil horse. Thank you.
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Norman, I like it. Another great idea from the forum. i will definitely start doing this.
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The prep may be my issue with getting it to transition on the guide, I have done nothing to any of the guides I have wrapped, all Fuji titanium guides. After increasing the tension a little and using more wraps I think I have solved the issue of them coming loose. I applied finish this morning, used Hitina, really liked it, have 2 more rods ready to wrap today, i will try to prep the guides and s
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Thanks guys, I always put my pull through 180 from the guide, probably just not enough wraps, I redid the one that came loose this morning and used 8 wraps and had no problem. Roger I went to D size thread because I was having a hard time getting the A to jump up on the guide foot, so D was suggested. this was the first time using the D and only my 4th rod build overall.What really @#$%& me off w
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For some reason my wraps on the guides keep coming undone. I am locking them from the start with 4-6 wraps and then doing the same at the end, pulling it back through with pull string. They always come loose from the pull through end, I dont get it. Using Fuji thread, size D. I built recurve bowstrings and servings for years, never had any issues, this is a simple process but apparently I am not
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I use my garage for all, but I have a dust collection system and I installed a ductless heat pump as well so I keep it at 70 degrees. I also have a 10 ft work bench, alps wrapper/ rod dryer and mudhole tent with heater set at 76 degrees. I keep the garage clean and do all my cork turning, sanding and reaming first, clean up and then wrap and finish. So farr I have only built 4 rods but with the
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JIm, I called Point Blank but they deferred me to you. I am wanting to build a baitcasting rod for rattletraps and one for medium diving crankbaits, 10lb braid with 10lb fluro leader. Prefer 7'3" if possible or 7' if not. I have a PB731MXF that I use for small squarebills, tried the medium divers on that but I think the tip gives too much.Anyone else that has built rods from Point Blank for
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Thank you both, I purchased a Collet chuck with 5 collets last night. Hopefully they will arrive soon. That should end my search for using mandrels, up side is I know have a nice system in place for other uses of the lathe, such as woodwork. In the process of making a bunch of cork clamps now.
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So I posted a few weeks ago i bought a Wen 3424T wood lathe so I could start making my own cork handles. Bought the tailstock live center and a drill chuck, tried putting the 18" x 1/4" mandrel in that setup and its too long. I also purchased a Nova G3 chuck, Nova mini spigot jaw set which came today, put that on the lathe and it wont tighten down to 1/4", so that doesnt work eithe
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Thanks Roger, very fine gentleman on this forum, I really like it. i have learned so much about rodbuilding in a very short time. I gave my best freind the spinning rod I built with evryones help, and he hasnt stopped raving about it yet. We fished tournaments together for 20 years and used pretty good rods ( G loomis & St. Croix upper end rods ) and he said nothing he has ever fished with ev
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So my lathe is not variable speed, I have 520, 900, 1400, 2150 & 3400. which would be better for turning the cork. 2150 or 3400. Thank you.
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Thank you Tom, I have one of those as well as a square and square radius.
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When turning the grip to get concentric should the tool edge be at centerline or just below it ( Height wise ) . Thanks
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If I want to use one of the burl rings for the end of the fighting but, what is the best way to fill in the 1/4 hole. Do I just cut a piece of cork and glue it in the hole, sand it all down when turning the handle. Thanks
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Looking forward to receiving it.
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Thanks Tom and everyone else, I will try Cork Specialties since they are a sponsor here.
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Probably a dumb question but can you use all burl cork rings to build a handle, i found a company that has a selection of all different designs that look really good. Or do you just use them for trim bands. Thanks
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Why would you have to take the rod drying tent apart, I have the same one and have never taken it apart to transport, it is two pieces that velcro together if both are used. Is that what you are referring to, just a pull of the velcro ? Have you used Flex coat finishes, i just heat my bottles before I use them and dont have bubble issues with that. Glad you found something you really like.
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That only works on three phase a/c motors. Or DC, Is it a DC motor.
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Thank you Tom
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Mr. Kirkman, what type of chuck is on your lathe in the cork turning video that you did on youtube, I have been trying to find one that I can clamp a 1/4 mandrel up with. I just purchased a Wen 3424T and have a live center and a drill chuck on the way, but would like something with 4 self centering jaws that will hold small round items, such as a mandrel or the cork grip itself. Everything I see
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Thank you Tom, as always
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You can buy just the roller supports made by flex coat or Alps, dont really need but 3, 4 is better. I have the alps wrapper system, love their stuff. Check Get Bit Outdoors
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I just glued up my first cork handle, I tightened the cork clamp evenly until the handle compressed 1/8 of an inch. Is this sufficient pressure. Used 1/2 AAAA natural rings and 1/4 burl rings (Width). started at 2 1/2 and compressed to 2 3/8. Thank you
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Just watched Flex Coat video, I got it now. Simple enough. Thanks for all the replies.
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Herb, its going to be for a spinning rod, it will be 2 3/4 long with cap, 1/2 no hole cap, 3- 1/2 rings and 1- 1/4 burl ring all with 1/4 hole
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So i am gearing up to start turning all my own cork handles and butts. I have been trying to find info on how to do the fighting butt. if the end cap has no hole how do I turn this to get it to size and shape plus hollow out the inside to slip up on the tenyon of the rest of the butt grrip. Thank you
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Thank you Roger, that is a very convincing statement for the use of Titebond III, I do believe I will follow your recommendations and use it. When I place the grip back on the mandrel to turn it on the lathe is it going to grip the mandrel well enough to keep it from slipping
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