I am new, well 9 rods in, to rodbuilding and glued up and turned the grips for the six rods I have built for myself. You can get some great looking burl cork rings in all kinds of colors that make beautiful handles. I bought a Wen wood lathe for the turning and it has just become another part of the rod building process, one that is very gratifying when finished I might add. I also use Titebond I
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Shawn, where do you live, I have always gotten free shipping from mudhole for any order over $100. and just received a order a couple weeks ago.
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I like my Alps power wrapper, everything you need to wrap and finish.
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Just booked my room at the Marriott.
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This will be my first, be good to put a face with the names that have helped me tremendously in my rod building journey.
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Wanting a spinning rod that is a little versatile. I will be using 10lb braid with fluro leader, Tatula 2500 series reel and alternating between Rico popr, wacky rig and neko rig with 1/16 to 1/8 oz weight. Is this rod a good choice for that, or is the PB701MF a better choice. The latter looks to be on the heavy side as far as lure weights. Thanks as always guys.
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What Joe said, I use both, mostly the pilot bit as my grips are 4" and 2 1/2 " long, work great. I usually drill through until the pilot just barely comes out the hole in the other end, then back it out and start at the other end, perfect every time.
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The collets work great for turning cork on mandrels, I bought a set of amazon by PSI for $100
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Thanks Tom
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What Tom said, I tried the tape and it sucked, Now I just hold the brush still about 1/8 past the the threads and let the finish do the work, comes out great.
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Cant wait to get it, can you mail out the backcopy that I ordered yesterday with it. Thanks Tom.
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Tom I just ordered the back issue with the cooler, order number 2812. Ben, do you have a preference on the color preserver. I will start using it.
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John, Yes , i use the bottle warmer to warm all the finish before mixing, I will try the hand mixing. I already have the stir sticks.
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Tom is that issue available to order, thanks'
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Tom, that is the video that I watched that changed my finish skills from oh crap to wonderful results. I was trying to apply finish with the rod turning before watching you in that video, after applying your technique my finish came out great, I am just not fast, plus on every rod I am coating a large area for decals, one between the split grips and one right in front of the reel seat, both are a
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John, I was getting bubbles with the flexcoat, I use a crb mixer, measure with syringes, pour into aluminum, and tried heating with bubble blaster after applying but cant seem to get rid of the bubbles. I am sure it is my faut as I am a rookie with only 8 rods under my belt, but that being said I did not have the issue with the Hitena, only short pot life. Any suggestions I will be glad to follow
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I'm extremely slow Tom, between being very meticulous and arthritis , I need more time. The flex coat was giving me plenty of time, as a matter of fact it got easier to work after a few minutes in the pot, Hitena not so much but the end product is fantastic and no bubbles whatsoever.
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I have used Hitena for my last 4 rod builds and I like everything about it except the pot life, way shorter than the flexcoat I was using before. By the time I get to the last few guides, it is stiffening up enough that it does not flow off the brush. I am in a climate controlled room set at 70 degrees so I dont think temp is the problem, I pour the finish in an aluminum tray after mixing. Will t
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I second the Point Blank, PB731HXF or PB761HF. If he breaks that he needs to start using broom handles.
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Thank you Norman, it is because of people like you here on this forum that I have gained so much knowledge in a short period of time
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I found the Acid Rod Excell spreadsheet and layout wheel on line a few weeks ago and used both both for the progressive layout and placement of the 5 degree offset for the stripper, 60, 120 and 180 degree guides as weli as the spacing for the progressive layout. I must say I am impressed with both of these wonderful tools as I have not had to move the spacing or position of any guides from the re
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Lynn, I like to be able to feel what the crankbait is doing, what type of cover I am banging it into or dragging it across. Back in the day I used the ST. Croix glass cranking rods and they gave me this ability, only downside was they were extremely heavy,
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Jim, Get Bit nor The Rod Room carry this model and Mudhole says its unavailable for back order, do you have these blanks and know where I can get one. Thanks.
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Yes, Michael, that is why I ask questions here on this forum. I am getting pretty good at building the rods, making my own cork handles and guide layout but i am still uncertain of which blank will be the ultimate choice for the lures I am going to use it for. If I am going to buy the best guides and and a $200 blank want to make sure it's the right choice. Going by their website specs I would
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Jim, if I click on the specs for that rod on the point blank website, it comes up PB 7101 MF and 1/8 to 1/2 oz lure weights, it also says on the website that there are 3 7'10" models but only lists 2 of them. So is that the wrong info for the PB7101 MHM
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Phil, for casting and these crankbaits are typically between 3/4 and 1 oz.
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Does anyone on here own or built a point blank rod for deep diving crankbaits, 16-20 foot depth like DT16 or Mann's 20 plus. I see they have a 8' model that is moderate taper, or maybe one of the7'10" or 7'6' models.Looks like the PB801MXF would be a good choice Thank you.
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I believe you are correct Lynn, Michael I spool all of my rods with braid and either fluro or mono leaders. I like mono for the topwater and spinnerbaits, fluro for everything else. These rods with the steez reels on them are all incredibly light and balanced extremely well, I am very pleased with all the ones I have built so far, including the cork handles i made out of some very nice and color
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Thank you Jim, appreciate the extra effort and explanations. I am really loving these poin Blanks. I have built 6 so far.
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So far all of my rods I have built, a whopping 7 total have been a little heavy on the finish, classic football shape I guess, not huge but about the same as a St. croix or other top of the line store bought. My pee brain logic is a little more epoxy, better hold on the guide. So am I correct or do you guys wipe off most of the finish after applying. I followed Tom's tutorial video and it greatly
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