Great news Jim. Does this include the full line including NCP and metallics?
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Maderia Polyeon embroidery thread is used extensively in rod building but primarily for decorative purposes - cross-wraps, weaves, etc. as mentioned above it has a silicone coating to lubricate the machines which does not play nice with rod finish epoxy - so you need to use color preserver to seal it (plus it would wash out anyway if you didn’t). Most do not recommend it for use for guide over
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I have 4 of the Fuji chucks in my dryer and they work very well and are very well built. Just make sure the chuck is well tightened to the shaft.... I went with them over the CRB ones for the same reason as mentioned above.... one was the original.... the other a copy....
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Have the blanks in hand. Have a Aftco size 24 roller top and it just barely fits. It’s a broom stick for sure - not sure how I’ll static test it - lol. But it’s the specific blank he specified.... think he was mirroring this off another semi-custom rod. We are going to have a talk about if this is what he truly wants / needs for the use.... Oh - and the FG knot is the bomb!
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Roger - I think we're doing with size 12 rings.... the tip is a size 24 (or a snug hair larger). Mark - the blank is a Seeker IGFA80 - its a stout rod for sure :) - I have one Aftco roller tip already in hand that was going to be used and it sits snuggly on the tip. I did find some ALPS tip-tops that go that large - though not sure they have them with the Zirconium rings - and he's pretty s
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Have a request to build a 80 lb class tuna rod with a spiral wrap and he wants Fuji SiC guides - but I'm unable to find a roller tip-top that will work - the All American @#$%& only goes up to a 18 and it does not look like regular roller tip-tips will work flipped over. So, looking at larger diameter traditional tip-tips.. the Fuji SiC only goes to an 18 as well.... Looks like AT has one wi
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thanks guys... Russ - I've built a few on RCLB79L and 70L, and actually have some 70XL's somewhere between the west coast and east coast in the blurr of the USPS.... good to hear your feedback on the XL..... Spencer - with this type of fishing we'll pull 6-10 (sometimes more) rods - and most guys have historically used $30-$40 Ugly Stik Striper rods due to the cost point of outfitting... tho
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Grant - thanks for the feedback - we "pull Iive bait" - but slow trolling (trolling motor) from 0.5 to 1.5 mph with small alewife, gizzard & threadfin shad from 4" to 12" or so - free/light lined or behind in-line planer boards.... rods are in the rod holder so sensitivity is not critical - but a "soft" tip so that the striper does not feel the rod immediately
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Looking for some blanks to use for inland striped bass fishing pulling live bait - have been buliding on RX6/E-Glass RCLBs as well as some E-glass blanks. Looking for something that would have a bit slower action, and a soft tip than the RCLB, but more power than the E-glass - in a 7 - 7-6" range, 15-30 lb line Wondering about the RCKJB700-112 - does anyone have feedback on this - or eve
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I’ve found that with the power wrapper using fairly tight tension, keeping your thread “behind” the head of the wrap (that is so that the spool lags where it’s wrapping onto the blank), and then using the edge of a burnishing tool to press the oncoming thread tight to the wrap will help get it wel packed from the get go. I’ll still burnish well afterwards Some of the above is hard to do whe
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Are we taking solid EVA, or custom glued up grips? If custom ones then you definitely want to ream close to side. If solid, check out the tips on using rubber cement as a lubricant to help them slide down
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Un-bored blocks are needed if you want a grip with a larger OD that the pre-bored ones, or if you’re going to do decorative grips that require cutting especially at angles, etc
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Fabric backed sandpaper works better than big box home store paper. I’ve turned and sanded down a number of grips using the progression I learned from Billy V - 80, 120, 150 and 220 on the lathe turning pretty fast - around 4000 rpm - and lean into it to get it to cut. This is with the quite firm Eva blocks - around 70 durometer i believe.
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Have been using both - been trying the low build for first coats on guide wraps or as the first coat on the top layer of a tiger (used the regular on 2 coats of the lower tiger layer to get more optical seperation). I’m finding the low build seems to produce more bubbles that surface after application while the rod is on the dryer. Haven’t fully isolated the variable yet but seems to be the
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Actually sent 2 - one short reply earlier today - then one this afternoon with some attachments... maybe your Hotmail spam filter snagged it? - will resend now
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Kent - sent you a reply
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Let me rephrase a bit..... I’m using it two ways - own to get it “roughly in place” - which is needed less and less - but then after static testing and adjusting the guides to “read” it back off for the other blanks of the set
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Knew it wouldn’t take long for the “why do you need that when I’ve been doing it X way all these years”..... Perhaps you could share what the “fly line trick” is since it’s worked for all these years.... man I love this forum sometimes
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Was looking for an easier way to consistently set guide angles on the blank when doing spiral wraps on a batch of matching rods. I’d used the “degree wheel” cutout from Acid Rod but it was a hassle to setup and fix on the blank each time. A while back I got to thinking about the digital angle finder I have for my bandsaw and cutting grips. I grabbed that but needed a way to hold it in the r
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Does anyone use wax or other surface protectant to protect newly built rods - blanks/wraps? If so, what do you recommend?
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Thanks.... that’s what I assumed buy seemed wrong to put those tags on the guides....
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When doing a spiral wrap - where do you make your “dirty” side - normally would be on the bottom of a casting rod, but this is where 2/3 or more or the guides will be, putting the tag ends with the guide, which likely is where folks will focus looking.
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2nd the ALPS - you can use it to finish wrap and finish at speed and then put it on slow dry rotation. The "spring arm" supports (2 of which come with it) can be a little finicky with the blank popping out if you put lateral pressure, but I've found by alternating the direction of the supports (forward / aft) that it helps this.
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2nd the ALPS - you can use it to finish wrap and finish at speed and then put it on slow dry rotation. The "spring arm" supports (2 of which come with it) can be a little finicky with the blank popping out if you put lateral pressure, but I've found by alternating the direction of the supports (forward / aft) that it helps this.
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Looking forward to it!
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Looking forward to it!
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Ben - lol I understand his concerns - live bait inland striper fishing is often done with 6-10 rods so they add up fast, and many guys use the $35-$40 Ugly Stil striper rods. The old style had guides that were terrible for cracking on the frame. The newer ones are all stainless but have other issues. As would be expected on a low cost production rod. They also tend to get banded around a
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Thanks - correct weight is not a concern
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Looking for a recommendation on a “budget” casting guide set that can take some abuse. These will be paired with a fiberglass blank for inland striped bass fishing. The angler is looking for options as he’s tired of eyes popping out and epoxy breaking on production rods. Figured I’d use all double foot guides - maybe or maybe not with underwraps
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John Cates Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- The best BBQ in > Texas isn't made on a pit with a thermometer, its > made by feel, and touch and heart and soul. Well, I mean that’s not even BBQ down there.... if it’s not Eastern NC BBQ then it’s not BBQ <duck, cover and run.... lol>
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