I don’t know - best to call Batson directly - but I seem to remember them saying on the live stream a couple months back that it would likely be October for the new products - but check with them
Forum: rodboard

I’ll either prime, paint it and clear it, or sometimes I’ve done a full wrap of thread and then a couple coats of finish then do the decorated. With the cost of spray can 2k clear, thread / epoxy is probably cheaper unless you wantthe metallic look - though I’ve also just epoxied over paint without the 2k also
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I’ve made a number of them for friends and customers. Aftco is the only net I’ve found that allows you to remove the net head and build on the handle. I usually replace the stick foam handle with a “camo” Eva, and then either paint / clear the handle or wrap it all in thread - with decorative wraps and/ decals. I’ll try and upload a few pics in the photo library and link here
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Thanks Roger - I’m going to look into one of these…
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Just remember - this is not a factor of the non-USA companies. It being able to make quality product. They are certainly capable of producing at whatever level of quality their customer is willing to pay for…… Oh, and it comes to fishing poles - I believe the main exporter of rod blanks has been fishing fir a lot longer than we have in the US :)
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I like to do my butt wraps and hide the tie off under the butt and the rear grip. As mentioned leave the butt off till after wrapping - but another trick I’ll use is to take a piece of dowel rod and either sand a taper where it will fit snugly - or use some tape to arbor it and insert into the butt of the rod blank. I’ve found that it also needs a bit of tape on the end of the rod going into t
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Wrap a single foot running guide for your tip top
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Almost all I use. While there is not the vast color spectrum available that some others have they are quality threads and wrap & finish very nicely
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He’s not talking about it fading - but rather the color coming off when applying CP
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Message sent via the board - your email here is hidden so can’t send directly
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > In fact, I started this forum for people who don't take the > magazine - the ones who take the magazine really > don't need this forum. > ............. Definitely not true. The magazine while having lots of valuable articles has only a few per issue - so maybe what 20 topics / year? And those may
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Was good to see you and keep promoting the art and fighting the good fight :)
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I use a 2-part 2K clear from a rattle can - it’s a. It pricy at $20ish a can and the shelf life once activated is less than 48 hours so best to have a few rods to do. However this is done over cured paint before any thread work is done. You could perhaps mask off the wrapped butt area and spray - and the apply rod epoxy finish over the wrapped area and overlap onto the 2k clear coverage
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Thanks Thomas. Mark - yes indeed - Coastal Carolina University
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I’m excited about that red metallic finish….. hope we see it on other blanks too…
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Can you trim the bubbles without cutting into the thread? You’ll want multiple coats over the dragon scale anyway. Best to go with as light of a coat as you can to start to help any air escape.
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Just did a rod for a customer that was a graduation gift for his son. He wanted his sons signature on it. So he sent me a high-res photo which I pulled into Adobe Illustrator and converted into a vector format and cleaned up so that I could scale as needed. Then integrated that with some text and printed in gold in clear with a PX800
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Been happy with supply of Batson’s Alps and Forecast guides through a number of the vendors that are sponsors here
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Was digging through the library to find one of the New Guide Concept articles and was sidetracked by the “Another Way to Wrap a Rod” article - which highlighted a machine that kept the blank still and rotated the thread spool around the blank. Found it interesting as not too long ago I saw a video of a a rod factory in Asia with what I assume to be a “modern” version of such - operating a
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Rainshadow Judge crank bait blank - Made in the USA as well…
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Or just replace the order, hopefully I will go through ok this time, enjoy the magazine & DVD and save the frustration of taking to an automated response system
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Joel Babin Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That Ravens theme looks sharp. Very nice Thanks!
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I’ve built a couple of rods now on the blank - one in collegiate colors of Virginia Tech abs one in a Baltimore Ravens theme.
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I have been squeeging as much of the gen4 as I can and then wiping with a DNA saturated paper towel - followed by several dips in U40 brush cleaner and “scrubs” on the paper towel - and also still finding more fine haired sable type brushes to dry fairly stiff. The “cheapo” mudhole or flex coat brushes clean better - probably due to the more course grained bristles
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Good to see a little Voodoo here!
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I’m still the new guy here - my first guide wrap was done 8 months ago, my first custom grips were made 11 months ago - but have over 30 rods completed in that time - all with a fair bit of decorative work - from tiger wraps to open and closed wraps to weaves. I find it interesting that there is such a strong bias on this forum against decorative work / thread art - and so much “performance i
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Michael, > > Perhaps you want to "upgrade" your foot pedal to a > full electronic control pedal. > > For the money, right now, this pedal is the best > value on the market. Precise control and long > lived. > > > p/B000R8DBTM/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=
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Found this helpful link - I went ahead and pulled apart the rheostat, opening the carbon disc chamber to inspect the disc check and they looked ok - so I just cleaned up the button & bar contact and put it all back together - there is some play/adjustment in the rheostat module in terms of alignment vs the pedal plunger so I adjusted that forward so the pedal contacts sooner. In some q
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This morning I noticed my wrapper foot pedal "crackling" or "arcing" some after using it at very slow speeds and releasing the pedal. Opened the pedal and I see some black discoloration where the brass (?) bar makes contact to the metal button switch in the rheostat module. I'm guessing that the spring is perhaps not releasing fully when I let of the pedal, allowing some b
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I’ve been using Duplicolor automotive lacquer over a sandable primer followed by a two part “2K” spray epoxy clear applied after a week to let the lacquer fully cure - all rattle cans.
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