If this is too far off topic I apologize feel free to delete. As with any build I like to match the reel to the rod from the beginning. I was and still am a big fan of the Diawa SS tournament series. I have a untold number of them from over the years. Got thirty years on some of them. They have one problem which I encountered in the past and see it being a bigger problem now. The line roller on t
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Be nice if someone offered ice blanks with a extra tip section like many fly banks offer. Or go one better and offer a couple tips with varying sensitivity. Do a solid carbon blank with just a short tip section as a tubular noodle.
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Roger, I am familiar with the troubles of solid carbon and noodle tips. I am not a fan of a noodle tip rod of any material, either to build or to fish. Would much rather build a durable rod out of good materials and add a spring bobber to the tip.
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One tip on the length. Find out if he is fishing in a shanty and how space he has. Seen it more the once where a guy has too much rod and cant set the hook without running the tip into something. Don't have a specific recommendation but I would strongly lean towards a solid carbon if you can find one meeting your desired specs.
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I have used them. Work fairly well. Had some issues with them not centering when you get to the upper end of their recommended blank size. Used them with both a gel epoxy and liquid either way worked fine. I preferred the liquid. With liquid you can handle everything dry. Slide the first arbor in place on the blank. I found it easier to drop the reel seat onto the arbor with a bit of epoxy o
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If it was something to do with the flame I would expect t see it elsewhere in the wrap. Around the blue thread only wrap there is no black streaking. Unfamiliar with the Prowrap thread sure looks like the color bled. Every since a couple early builds that ended in some uneven wrap color I have made a practice of always using color preserver regardless of the thread. I don't do much in the way of
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This time of year a parked car is the only drying oven you need.
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If you cut the tenon back and remove a small amount foam in the grip this might work. You might have a gap as the I.D. will be bigger than your size 16 or 17 seat, could be filled with black tinted epoxy. Following the link then click on "Aluminum Conventional Reel Seat Trim Rings" can't get a direct link.
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Was going through some boxes. Trying to get a better handle on what I have on hand and what I should find a new home for. Anyways I have a fair number of gold frame spin guides. Forget the model but just your standard fuji spin guide. Inserts are mainly whatever the standard grey insert were. A few are early SIC which I remember paying dearly for. I figured I would look in to complete some sets t
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Can't prove something when most everyone has a different idea of what the proff is.
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On a serious note about casting distance it like most everything in custom rod building is very subjective. For my builds I tend to get very particular. I built one rod to fish two holes of one trout stream. I set it up to cast a specific presentation a very narrow range of distance. Will it work for other things, yes but might not be the best option. But if someone just randomly picked it up and
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I would look at Pac Bay Tan. It leans to the whiteish side of tan especially the NCP version. Don't know what your particular ivories look like. Some are just an off white to light tan others have a lot of amber color to them. Can't think of any amber colored options. Fuji Garnet is about the closest to Rosewood anyone offers.
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Thanks. Seems counterintuitive at first but makes sense after thinking about it.
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The trim ring is rather thin and don't need much to level it. Afraid if I just try to apply it thin I won't get enough on for it to flow and level out. Would like to get to point were I can drop finish on as it rotates and have it fill the area.
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Wonder if anyone has thinned down Gen 4 low build. Here is my situation. I used an aluminum trim ring between a carbon fiber grip and the buttcap. Well the trim ring was a fuzz smaller diameter. If it was not carbon, which I could sand down fiber I would just gently sand down the edge. The difference ain't much not visible but will catch a finger nail. So figured I would just do a few coats of Pe
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With flouro I can see a need for more distance when coming off a 1000 series. Never used 2 lb but all the flouro I tried in the 4 to 10 pound range had the most memory and stiffest coiling of any line I have used. Most shops in my area recommend to not use flouro on any spinning reel. As for nanofil have heard too much bad about it to roll the dice. Powerpro to a Seagaur Blue Label flouro l
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Russ that is exactly what I was alluding to. In a perfect world we could set the reduction train perfectly and separately from the runners. But on the slower blanks we have to pay more attention to the relation of the two and realize the reduction guides but have to do the work of runners as well. As such placement might be affected. One rod I built called for the stripper to fall at around 19
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I have encountered another factor on light and ultralight light, especially slower action blanks or shorter blanks. You might have to adjust your reduction train and choke guide or use more guides than recommended to properly support the static load. I tend to play around with guide placement and number of guides way more more on light and ul rods. A medium on up you can darn near build off a da
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I also assume he is building spinning as the RSPGIB guides he mentioned are a average height spinning guide. By conventional I think he is referring to cone of flight instead of concept setup. Would not be my first choice but it should work just fine. Would probable be a easier transition and look better to use RSPGB guide after the RSGB stripper. I was really surprised how much I was able
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I have built a couple 4 1/2 and 5 foot trout rods. Don't need a very tall reduction train with light mono or even better braid. I used a two guide reduction then the runners. I used pac Bay minima in 8m 4l then f series 4w. Works great. Might look up the heights of the 8m and 4l and go with similar height rec guide
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I always do a trim wrap on my ferrule wraps. I wrap the ferrule with the rod assembled. I wrap the butt section at the ferrule joint with tape until it is level with the tip section. Once I have everything level I wrap tape over the butt and tip section joint. I overlap the tape just a couple mm at most, onto the tip section. I build up this section about a 1/16 thick. This gives me a wall to p
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I have always kept ferrule wraps to a minimum,1.5x the diameter is my rule of thumb. As to this particular rod I was able to tweak the guide location slightly. In turn I can do one wrap for ferrule and guide. Overall length will now be less then the guide below it, looks right now.
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I don't use any kind of lube. I do lightly wax then aggressively buff it off. Want to leave nearly no wax. But a nice clean level surface that won't attract dirt.
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Does PG offer any level of adhesion like epoxy finishes? I like light finishes. But filling the guide foot tunnels with epoxy finish sure makes me feel better about things staying put.
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Perhaps incorporate into the handle. Seen a rod that had a hair jig inset in the handle. Don't know how it was done. Was a cork handle. Looked like a section big enough to fit the jig was cut out to the center line. That section had the jig in it. Then it appeared as though the section was filled over the jig with clear pourable resin, like used to fill voids in natural wood slab furniture. I a
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Latest build places guide about on the ferrule. First I have encountered this. Have not paid much attention to how other rods have been wrapped in this situation. If I wrap as usual I will have about 1/4 inch gap between my ferrule wrap and guide wrap. Do I do that. Or wrap it all as one. I typically do a trim wrap on both ends of the ferrule and a trim wrap on the guide wrap. If I do as one wra
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Cannot speak to what your asking. However I can offer insight into increasing the rate rate of choke and decreasing weight of reduction train. I built a lot of light and UL rods. I am always trying to build lighter yet protect the blank. I have a bad habit of using a rod a little light for the task at hand. So I am very picky about getting a perfect static load. I usually use more guides than mo
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Paypal might be buggy. I got a email today that I had not paid my PayPal credit account. Got the confirmation email says I did. I signed in to check things out. First time could not even find a payments button to click. Signed out and in again and the payment button was where it always has been. Maybe doing updates and some things are getting lost in the shuffle.
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Bamboo cooking skewers can be had in a few different sizes. Amazon sells 3.5 and 5mm diameter in various lengths. Probable be a bit stronger than small diameter wooden dowels and less expensive.
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Here I have spent way too long thinking this over and some one comes along and shoots that all to heck will a way too simple solution to a maybe problem. Thanks Mark. I am going to fit it with a slight gap which should more or less be hidden by the shadow line of the foregrip. You don't get a real clean gap to the seam with a carbon fiber grip anyways. Still may fit a rubber washer. Got to se
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