Just finishing up a UL. For the reel seat I used a skeleton seat with a carbon fiber insert. I used a threaded section on both ends and a SK2 hood with carbon fiber hood covers. The front and rear hoods tighten towards each other. Works real nice extremely lightweight. In wanting to keep weight down I fitted the reelseat insert snugly to the rod. The threaded sections of course needed arbors. I
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I have built a couple ultralite spinning rods for trout fishing. One a 6 foot the other a 4 1/2. I am a fan of the minimas. I wanted the rods as lite as possible. Casting was of limited concern. Small streams very thick brush. Anyways I played around with things quite a bit. I went with the minima match size 8 then a size 4 low then size 4 f series. This is with a 1000 series reel and 6 or 8 poun
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Since the reelseat is not epoxied yet why not file down the portion of the seat that fits into the pocket? Clamp the seat in a vice with aprox. the amount you want to remove above the vice jaws, file slowly til seat is flush with the jaws. If it is a small amount should not effect anything. I can't recall ever seeing a reel that bottomed out in the reelseat hood.
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Phil your exactly right. I have found myself questioning those generalities much more than I did in the past. Which is both a good and a bad thing. For the best build it is good to think of all angles. But at least for me I quickly get to the point of overthinking things a lot of times.
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I have lots of experience with big fish on UL rods. Know the technique. But also know things don't always go as planned. So I am planning worst case scenario.
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I took a break from building for near twenty years. Micro guides are a huge departure from what I used to use. I am at 12 inches to the first guide. Lip of reel is a 11 from the butt. Here is the overview of the rod. Building it for a small stream trout rod.. As in most spots are no more than six to eight feet across and often under three feet. Casting distance is low priority mainly drift
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Ok overthinking things again. Looking for opinions. Building on a NFC FW 461-1. Four foot six UL Moderate action. Not concerned with reduction train. Going somewhat unconventional with just two reduction guides but it works. As for runners I am running five Pacbay minima f size 4. So total of seven guides. Static load looks perfect. If I drop down to just four runners I can get to "that's pr
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Lynn I have a spool of A that is nearly empty and one that appears full. Unsure of the size on the near full, no label. I am 100% positive it is Gudebrod. Your welcome to both. Email your info.
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Nick my follow up question was going to be if you could control the density by incorporating voids. Can this material be worked. A thicker shell would give some material to work with. You could turn the grip as you would cork to add some fine details or and just soften the look. Sometimes a grip looks right but needs some work to feel right.
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Russ email your info. I got a near full spool of size D 468. Wrapped one casting rod just guides wraps. Have a whole spool of D 002, but it's not NCP. I was out of the game awhile myself. When I got back into I was not happy with thread options. Tried a lot. Been the happiest with Hitena. They offer a lot of their thread is a size B. In the metallic their size b is the closest feeling to gude
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Looks good. Any idea about UV stability? How is weight compared to traditional materials?
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Mark I got a full spool of D. Email me your info.
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To be clear not selling or fishing for a sale. Don't want to have this post deleted. I got extra I am not going to use want to pass it on to some one that has a need. So ANYONE looking for a certain color because you need to match something or it was a favorite that you would like to to use again please post a color and size color number if you know it. If I got it I will send it to you no charge
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Ok looking to give back as a thank you for a lot of help I have received from this website. I have been doing some cleaning. I have a fair amount of thread that I just am not going to use. I know there are a lot of folks looking for Gudebrod. I have a fair amount. Mostly metallics some regular thread. Lot of size D some of the trimar some A some of the metalllic braid. Mostly full spools or near
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The NFC would be nice as well at the sale price. However if you go that route I would call to order and see if it's in stock and when it will ship. I assume you want the rod done before our May 1 opener.
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What action would you call the rod? Being a walleye jig rod I would assume you built on a fast or extra fast blank. I have been very happy with all my recent builds on various rainshadow blanks. Only minor complaint is the Rainshowdows seem to run a little heavier than specs. So don't hesitate to use a blank a bit under what your specs were. Also in my opinion as a fellow Wisconsin walleye angler
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Mudhole offers them in 8mm. A wrap or two of tape or thread would bring you right to where you need. I build lots of UL rods with aluminum checks. Probable 90 percent use a larger check with a tape bushing and the gap filled with epoxy, works fine never notice it unless it is pointed out.. Only suggestion is to dye your epoxy black if it is not clear.
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I went with a EVA foregrip with the NFC soft touch, as I wanted more of foregrip than just a sleeve cover on the particular build. Another thing on the NFC soft touch you may or may not have found is the AT G2 winding checks fit perfectly. Was not a fan of the EVA checks NFC supplied. Also needed a bit of weight to balance the rod, so I gave the AT checks a try. Both the rear of the IPS and the f
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Yep I got the same answer. I have some IPS grips on order as well but no immediate plans for them. I did build with their soft touch IPS. Other than the lack of matching fore grip option I was impressed with the quality.
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Norman looking for a shorter grip. That is why I have been waiting on the NFC. The NFC will be the smallest lightest option. All I want is a covering of the SK2 hood. Minimal increase in length and OD. I have not had a lot of luck in shortening carbon fiber grips in the past. Going to give the NFCs this week to ship. If not the CFX stubbys are the way I am going to go. Thanks for the other ideas
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Ok winns are off the table. Norman,I have the CFX stubby fore grip. Was a bit larger than I wanted but leaning that way now. The AT sleeves add a lot more weight than I want. They also don't offer a matte finish 3k fighting butt to match. Appreciate all the advice and saving me a headache in the future.
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I am looking at the winn grip not the tape. I am considering the compromise just to get the build done. It is for myself. I want carbon fiber. However the particular carbon fiber is only available from a certain supplier, with a reputation of being very slow to ship and we are now going on triple the shipping time estimate. I am going for a super lite UL trout rod. The reel seat is carbon fibe
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Wondering about durability of winn grips. I am not a real fan of the looks or the feel. But they would fill a need for one of my builds. First option I have not been able to get ahold of. Anyways I have had some bad experiences with rubber tool grips recoil pads of guns etc. makes me a bit leery of going rubber type grip on a fishing rod. Rod will be a limited use UL. But it may spend a fair amou
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I use aluminum checks alot. I am a little hesitant to have a tight fit of metal on the blank. I like to have a gap between the blank and check. I use a check a size up from what I need. Use a very thin strip of masking tape to get the check to fit with just a slight amount of effort. I then position the rod vertical and fill the gap with epoxy out of a syringe. In some cases the check I want
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Check with mudhole I recall them at one point offering thread packages for various college sports teams. I am not finding it at the moment but only did a casual search of their site.
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Footballs are not caused by the type of color > preserver used but rather by using too much epoxy. > Footballs can happened even when no color > preserver is used with both NoCp and regular > wrapping thread. Centrifugal forces generated > during spinning causes the excess epoxy to pile up >
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I encountered the same creep with chromoseal. Drove me nuts chasing the problem. Went to flexcoat problem solved. I have gotten better color with multiple coats of CP. I soak the wraps. Wick off all the excess with a coffee filter. Do this two or three times depending on the size of the wrap, most cases I do twice.
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I cannot speak to the particular guides in for your build. However I have built on a few Phenix blanks. In my research there seemed to be a fair number of people that feel Phenix blanks are bit fragile. When laying out your guides for static load testing good idea to go an extra guide or two is the general consensus, if you you even slightly don't like the looks of things. Lot of people claimed
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I would without question. Typically I don't like me than about four inches between the tip and first guide. I would place that guide and then try two guides between that and the current third guide. I might even go two more guides depending how things look after adding one and making adjustments.
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I am building on the NFC RIGHT now. Very nice blank. Keep 8n mind NFC is running them on sale. Add it to your cart and it is 49 bucks. I got mine on a even better sale for 39. Heck of blank for 50 bucks even with tax and shipping.
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