Did not even think of accelerating the wear by knocking down the finish, thanks. This blank does have a rather substantial gloss coat. How fine of a finish do I need to go for when I knock the finish off. Thinking grey scotch brite pad.
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Getting started on a multi piece travel spin rod. Have a situation I have never encountered before. Built multi piece rods before no problems. Assemble until the ferrule halves are snugged together. Over any wear was not noticed or of any consequence. This rod fit is going to make a difference. The fore grip is going to land right on the female end of the ferrule. Reel seat will be on the lower s
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Mark thanks for checking into that also for the email. Little to much for me to spend. I am going to try some of the powder paints sold for jig heads. I know they are very durable and they offer a few colors that look like what I am looking for. I will order some plain aluminum checks so I have no base color altering the look of the powder color. Will see how it goes.
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I am learning that. Got it down fairly well. Just about to the point that I can get acceptable results first try. Little more practice to get a steadier hand and I should have it mastered
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Might go that route. Just was hoping to have the known durability of anodized finish.
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I am working towards cutting my time. I have a lot of confidence in the Gen 4. Other than getting my edges nice and clean I am definitely trying to cut back my time and letting the finish do the work. Trying to get into doing more rods. But right now about six a year is all I can justify doing. Hard to get enough practice in to get a good technique that is fast and you have confidence in.
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Yep mudholes green ain't going to work.
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Trying to find a dark green aluminum check. Everything I have found and used in the past is more a light lime green. Looking for something more of a forest green. Need 8 to 10 mm. Any ideas?
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I am slow and fussy when I finish a rod. I will typically spend about three minutes a guide wrap. Don't do large butt wraps. Probably spend twenty minutes on average. Finish still plenty usuable after that time. After that initial thickening finish seems to thicken very little.
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Going through my box of components getting everything together for another build. I am using a Pac Bay skeleton with a wood/acrylic insert. I have a fair number of seats in all the colors. I plan on using black for this build probable. Anyways of the black seats I have two different styles. On style has a kinda oval section of nylon exposed in the metal of the hoods stamped pac bay. The others h
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Russ feel free to email. The issue with the brush fanning out is when I am doing my edges. I will hold my brush with about half it's width on the wrap half hanging off on the blank will applying pressure. This will give me a nice edge. I then go to just letting the brush barely touch and flow the finish off for the rest of the wrap. I am using the Gen 4 lite. Other than the brush cleanup I wou
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Mark sent you a email. This particular blank seems like a real good one for fly to spin not near as sloppy as a typical fly blank.
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I have tried spatulas. Got frustrated with it. Would overload the spatula and end up with too much epoxy where I did not want it. Runs off way faster than it does from a brush. With enough practice might be the way to go. Just have not had the patience to try it some more.
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I run a size 16 on nearly all my UL have no issue with the size a size 20 is not quite a 1/4 inch larger which ain't a whole lot. Also have a reelseat insert for a skeleton seat I want to use on the rod. Running a 1000 series reel don't know how well a size 20 would even hold the reelfoot. If I need to get a real firm grip fighting a fish I can choke up onto the foregrip hence the desire for a la
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It is a 8 foot 3/4 weight. Want to keep it light plan to use a size 16 seat and carbon fiber grips. I want at least a three inch foregrip.
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Picked up a 7 piece fly blank that I am going to make into a UL spinning rod. Started playing around with it. Initially I thought I would get the grip on the first butt section. Not going work. So my plan is to do the fore grip and reel seat on the second section with the reel seat flush with the end of female section of the ferrule. Rear grip may or may not be a split grip undecided and obviousl
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I would like to go to disposable brushes. Have not found any I like. I mainly build light and UL rods. I like to use a small rather stiff chisel type brush. I don't like a brush that fans out. Need something that the bristles are crimped in a straight line. All the disposables I have found are packed in circular bundle. Even if I trim them they still fan out unpredictable when you apply any type
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Interesting thing about custom guns. At one time it was all about decorative aspects. Still a small demand for that. However the vast majority of custom rifles today are performance based.
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Been using Gen 4 lite. Been very happy with it on ul and light rods with one coat. Did a med action and one coat not quite enough for me. Going to do a second coat. But not sure exactly when I will get to it. Anyone had any issues waiting maybe three or four days? Also anyone had trouble cleaning brushes with Gen4. I have ruined two brushes now. Did my usual acetone dip and wipe and the next
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I am not downplaying the skill needed to do decorative wraps. Granted some people just can't do certain things. Just feel it is much more learnable skill. You do a b and c. I feel you have much fewer variables to deal with is all and you almost always have set guidelines. I have great respect for anyone that can do a complex wrap. Perhaps we are not comparing things equally. A decorative wrap
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Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Michael Sutheimer Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > > One could argue it is easier to do decorativ > wraps. > > You could, but you'd be wrong, that's why so few > people doing it, and so many are building high > performance rods We wi
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A performance based rod is easy to build. That is the thought that too many people have and the reason I am questioning selling rods. Just because you put good parts together don't mean your building to the peak of performance for those parts nor are you building to peak performance for the intended use of the rod. One could argue it is easier to do decorative wraps. There is no question ab
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Wow never expected so many replies. Sounds like the market exists but I may have to search for it and cultivate it. Just to give you a little more background on my comments. I have not done a lot of searching for other builders in my area. Just what I have come across at shops and various outdoor shows and searching the internet. This is what the market breaks down to in my area. First option
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I have wrapped rods off and on for about 25 years. Always just for myself or family and friends. While I have done some decorative wraps I concentrate more on performance. To be honest I just don't have the patience to really get serious about decorative work. Also I am to critical of my own work. So I agonize over every little detail performance wise and keep to simple wraps with some trim ban
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I have done similar with pistol cases and "live" primers. Soak the primer with some oil to soften the compound then dug it out with a drill bit.
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I just left it alone. Made the rod for extreme small streams and small trout mainly brookies. A ten inch fish is something to get excited about twelve is rare. Last few days I put the rod to the test and it performed perfectly. Even accounted for a 16 inch brown out of a stream maybe five foot wide.
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Just a note to this technique. I have always done it within about 48 hours of finishing. Don't know how well it may work on well cured finish.
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There numerous sizes of glow sticks available on amazon. Perhaps wrap an extra guide opposite the line guides. Glow sticks tend to be rather flexible. Use a guide size that the glow stick can be forced into.
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I have had good luck with using a pencil eraser. Seems like to creates a pit of heat and is slightly abrasive. Rub the spot then wipe the eraser residue off with DNA.
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Michael, > An interesting concept for a reel seat. I am > curious what you were attempting to accomplish > with two moveable / adjustable hoods? I was trying to create a lightweight grip that filled my hand. I like Fuji VSS and IPS. But it was a longer and heavier grip than I wanted. The two apposing h
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