Getting around to finishing my latest build. Having color preserver issues. Always used U 40 Color lock in the past. Well I have now gotten three bad bottles. First froze in shipping. Next two there is a problem with. U 40 admits the issue, says it is still usable. I am not going to take the risk on a rod with 11 guides and a butt wrap. So need some suggestions. Last time I used a different co
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Just finished wrapping my latest build. Giving it the final look over before finish I was not happy to to find a couple shiney spots on the reel seat hoods. Pac Bay skeleton seat black finish. Got two spots about a 1/16 in diameter. I have rods that have been fished hard for years and the finish is perfect still on the reelseats. Will leave the rant at. Anyways any suggestions on a good touchup m
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I always try to balance for level to just slightly tip up. Depends on the rod. Some grips and reel placements can be touchy. Seems a level balance will want to tip down at the slightest movement whereas a few degrees tip up and the rod seems to lock in to that balance point. Most all my rods are slightly tip up or butt heavy.I balance holding the rod normally with a slack line so as not to have
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It is the third reduction guide so I am pretty set on the placement. Just don't know if I want a band of thread that large middle of the rod. Just want to make sure there is nothing to think bout other than the look.
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Getting ready to wrap. My guide placement puts a guide close to the ferrule. If I wrap my ferrule as I have in the past then wrap the guide I will have only about a half inch gap between the two. Cannot deice if I should wrap it all as one or leave the gap. If I wrap as one I will have a little over two inches. Other than my visual preference any concern of having that much wrap over the ferrule
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Just did some comparing looks like going 20 10 5 with minimas will be the way to go. The fuji suggested is actually a 5.5m which is same height as the 5 minima. The ten is the same as the fuji 8 and the 20 is just a fuzz taller than the 16. Which I think is better than going shorter. Not gaining a noticeable amount of weight.
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Thanks for the tip on the KR concept. Need to do some final testing and tweaking but looks a lot better. The reduction train is actually very similar placement to what the new concept gave me. Replaces the choker in the new concept with an additional reduction guide. Make a difference I don't know but makes me think it will work better. One thing I find odd is the placement of the third reductio
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This will be a spinning rod. 8 lb braid with 6 lb flourocarbon leader. Knots should not be an issue with 4s Used the article in the library here in setting up new guide concept. Following that I am spot on as to placement and number of guides. Only the second rod I have done with the concept guide setup. So just a little unsure of how much to stray from guidelines. First rod I did fit the guidel
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Here is where I am at 9ft light mod fast 2-6 lb 1/8 to 3/8 rated blank. Using Pac Bay Minima match with minima f runners. My figuring gets me a 20 match 10 match 4w or 5 choker and runners. I am concerned that going from the 10 to the 4 is too drastic. I have not tried the 5 as I don't have them and can not find any at the moment. Is this too much reduction in one step? Next concern is spacing of
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The ones I have taken off I have used heat. I just used a lighter. Don't think I ever had one I had to get very hot. I was always able to pull them off by hand without burning myself. Just keep the heat moving and you should be ok. Other than a real heavy offshore type rod I would think it would be real easy to go from not enough to into the blank it you tried to file or grind through the tube o
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I am wondering if anyone has used Dura Gloss LS over superglue. Here is my situation. I used aluminum winding checks. I read it was best to fit them loose and make up the difference with thread wraps. This I did but the checks were not equal dimensions. The I.D. was slightly smaller on the end butting the handle. If I wrapped the thread thick enough to fill the gap on the other end I could not sl
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In the future if you cannot get the supplier to size the tip to the blank order the size it should be then half size above and below. Try them and see what the best fit is. Very few of us have a local supplier for rod supplies so we have to order everything. For the few extra bucks I would rather have extra tips than have to place another order.
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I understand the thought of not wanting to extend the weight to far forward in the blank. When balancing a rod or anything for that matter weight closer to the end will have more effect on balance. Knowing this I have always tried to keep my weight within the last couple three inches of the blank. The total length of my sleeve was about 3 inches. Before I started packing weight into the blank I
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Thinking of using Permagloss to coat some rod components. Specifically anodized aluminum trim rings. I understand Permagloss is very thin. I want to protect from scratches without having a visible coating. Will permagloss adhere to a smooth metal surface? Next question can Permagloss handle being frozen or extreme cold. Temps are dropping soon and I will need to order it. Had color preserver arri
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Got it figured out. Just need to glue it up. Was thinking of going with solid stock as I have some fiberglass rods from a popup blind. Would not be able to weight the blank to balance it though. Fortunately digging through my stash I found a a piece of fiberglass blank that fit nearly perfect. Need maybe two wraps of tape. Got the weight figured and glued into the sleeve. Drilled the end of the
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Weight is not a concern. Actual going to add a fair amount of weight to achieve a decent balance. Think I will drill the end of the crack and sleeve it then add my weight. Looking like the entire length of the crack will be filled on the inside of the blank with my weight and expoxy and then covered by epoxy and the butt. Doubt I will have any issues with it being fully encapsulated. Thanks for t
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They do. Might have to order some. Slick setup.
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Well I some how managed to crack a blank at about the last inch and a half of the butt. I know it did not arrive that way. I have the handle all glued up except the butt of the split grip when i noticed it. The crack will be fully covered by the butt with a few layers of drywall tape between the blank and butt. The area foreword of the crack is also complete covered. I fitted a wood insert in th
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As for the components you might want to consider having them coated in whatever color you think matches or compliments. If you have a local gunsmith talk to him about cerakote. It is a ceramic coating that can be had in all colors. Small parts are no problem. I have had tiny gun screws coated. Anyways start with standard wire frame guides pick your color and finish. Any decent cerekote applicato
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Last order I placed was told three to six weeks. After twelve weeks I cancelled the order, when they would not respond and give me updated shipping time frame. Then I had to file paypal dispute to get a refund after they dragged their feet on issuing the refund. They make great blanks but man they need to improve customer service. I am happy to wait. Just keep me in the loop and be responsive to
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For light weight reel seat option I used a skeleton seat with a cork insert on one of my trout rods. I believe Pacbay offers a cork insert for their skeleton reel seats. Been awhile since I built that rod. Was on a UL fleaflicker blank from Clemens. Sweet little rod. Was a little to slow action though for me. Last rod I built replaced that one. Went with a NFC FW602-1. About perfect action fo
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I have not used these reel seats. I considered them on my last UL and did some thinking about how to do it as I would also have had a gap, in my case about 2mm. It is fairly routine to make up extremely larger gaps with tape bushings when mounting reel seats. On small gaps I see no reason for tape to cause problems.Two possible ways I was thinking of attacking this. First would be a very thin
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Well I was feeling less confused. Now you throw straightest axis at me. I looked through older threads on here about straightest axis. Seems very subjective unless the blank has a very obvious curve. The blank i have has only a very slight curve,maybe,in the last 18 inches or so. Actually a compound curve. Left for about four inches and then back to the right. But it is very slight. Two other peo
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Ok watched too many youtube videos and got confused again. Looking for thoughts on spine location of a blank and how to orientate guides to the spine. I have always used a spine finder that holds the blank horizontal. I roll the blank as I bend the the tip to the floor. Now is the spine on the top of the blank or the bottom? Inside the bend or outside? Been awhile since I have built rods.
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Thanks great resource to approximate guide placement. Guide sizes you recommended fall right about what i was thinking. Is there any real advantage of using the real small running guides. Weight cannot be much different between say 6s and 4s. Ring size will be 5 on the tip.Last rod I built was the first one I did with micro guide setup. Seems like the way to go. Like anything though I am sure i
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That was about what I was thinking. Probable due 5s for my running guides. Those 4s are so darn tiny to wrap and run line through. Also might see some cold weather use and the 5s won't ice up as quick. What size guides transition from the 20 down to the 4s? I will try different sizes for my setup. Just need to have a starting point and order enough guides to have on hand to figure the best combo.
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The reel is a size 30 with the spool being a fuzz over 2" diameter. I am running 8 lb braid to 6 lb fluorocarbon. Appreciate feedback on the minimas with braid. With the previous rod I used the minima match then dropped down to the minima model f for my running guides. Used the matching minima tip. Overall happy with the setup. Just seemed on the light side as for durability. Rod is for
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Been out of the loop for a while. Did my first rod in about 15 years last winter. Not the prettiest work but fit my needs perfectly. Anyways I have decided to try another one to fit a specific fishing situation. I am planning on building on a MHX ST1262. 10'6" ML steelhead salmon blank. Will be building as a spinning rod. Blank is on the upper end of the power I want. But the action is e
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