Go for it but don't make it where you can't post anything like on the photograph page when you try to log into that. In fact, why don't you fix that and let people post photos here on the blog instead of having to log into another page. That has been an ongoing issue with this site for as long as I can remember. Please bring this site into this decade, at least.
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I have recently started using Gen 4 but for many years have used Flexcoat. The High Build difference is this (my personal experience), G4 tends to get bubbles from the thread but does not start out with them. High Build FC starts out with bubbles but they dissipate fairly rapidly, especially with heat applied. I like the viscosity of G4 but you really need 2 or more coats to get full fill coverag
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I agree with Phil about the taper, but that is just a personal opinion. Looks fine, fit the grip on and see what it looks like together. The reason for the taper is so that it won't hang on things with such a square edge. It also cleans up or hides / fixes any slight out of roundness better. Just remember you can't add cork so do a little at a time.
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Printed Heat Shrink tubing that stays tacky. I guess don't drop it in the sand.
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Roger's answer is what I would also do with my Dremel tool and and a diamond cutting disc, if it just won't come off. Don't let the aluminum winding check get too hot, do it in short spurts, letting it cool between cutting.
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I just use "soulful" or newer phrases like "Lit" & "Fire". You have to change with the times.
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If that happened with just about anyone's custom rod on this site, they would be contemplating a serious life change. If that was a rod I built, I would just quit building after I replaced it for free. That exact thing is why I started building all my own rods. Just think, Shimano bought G Loomis. Hopefully they left it alone, without any changes. Steve, drill and inject, I believe this one has s
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Roger beat me to the tip top type, That's all I try to use now. I also do the line slap method and if that doesn't work, to break off, point tip directly at the stuck lure, hold the spool and move back till the line breaks (do not bend rod). A lot of times it will just come out with a lot of straight pull force and sometimes it will come flying back at you, so be ready.
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Mark, I have tried the original Gorilla glue and TiteBond to glue up cork rings. Never had an issue with them separating while turning. Now I use Flex Coat rod builder epoxy with about a 15 minute set time. I did not like the Gorilla Glue because it foams up too much and the TiteBond because I, like you, don't trust it will completely set or that it is as waterproof as two part epoxy. The thing
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I used fiberglass drywall tape for the arbors on the narrow section then turned two rubberized cork rings for each end. It would help if AT made arbors that actually fit either end or just put a foam core with a center hole in it. Many of us here will not use tape arbors because of the weight and fear that they may get saturated with water even after encapsulating them with epoxy. You got us half
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Fujis are great guides and I have had the same experience as mentioned. You may also want to consider REC guides without incerts. They are virtually indestructible and will not corrode. They are a bit pricey but you also won't have to worry about them.
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I use a battery powered drill and and have a set of the Batson Dream Reamers. Ream a little while changing your grip to let spin on another orientation, then check making sure not to over ream and keep the hole centered. I also have a the longer reamer that is about 5' in length. I make most all of my own grips and EVA and cork will work with this. You can get real good with this method after doi
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I just dip my brush in then apply it to the thread while it is turning the same way I apply epoxy. Saturate the thread and remove excess with brush. Let dry and repeat or epoxy over it. I used to be like Roger but there are instances where it comes in to use especially with a tiger wrap. With a tiger wrap it will give better definition to the contrasting colors where they won't blend in together
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Jake, I have built on a few of the MHX blanks, I would say they are a lot like the Rainshadow RX ones. They were really surprising on how good they were. My "go to" lately fly rod blanks have been the NFC ones and have never been disappointed. Just pick out the action and size you want, they are pretty reasonable so you could get two in different sizes or actions depending on what you
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Kevin, These do not have a foam core. How do you recommend installing them over the blank? Arbors? Please explain are make a video. Thanks, Lance
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Wow, I wasn't sure that it would make that big of a difference. I think if his client would let him use a bit smaller guides he would even get more distance.
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I agree with Ben. My set up Has the largest guide at 6mm with 10lbs mono. A 12mm will work if you are needing the height. I would recommend a Fuji KW 12, KB 6 and the rest KB 5.5s and KT 5.5s to the tip with a 6mm tip top to help pass leader knots/small swivel. Guide brands that are similar in height will work also. Your stripper is also too close to the reel, try it at 21” or 22” from the reel f
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What are your guide ring sizes, how many are you using and what kind are they? Also, what size / type line are you using? 0, 20, 60, 180 set up doesn't have to be exact 20 degrees and 60 degrees. You want to create a straight line path from the 0 to the 180. It sounds like your spacing is off. How far is the stripper guide (closest guide to the reel) from the reel face?
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CP is not as viscous as epoxy. Apply CP first after burnishing and it shouldn’t move as much as the epoxy does. When the CP dries it will hold the threads in place for the epoxy. That is what I do.
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I saw a test done on different rod wrapping epoxy brands where they were exposed to sunlight and pictures were taken after a month. The one that came in second to the last with the least yellowing was Gen 4. Doc Ski did the test but he did not include all of the brands mentioned. Here is a link if you have FB. You need to remember that we use a particular resin for different reasons and th
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Tape as mentioned above will work fine. It is the space between the tape that the epoxy will bond to the blank and the grip so you will want that bond to be at both ends and the middle. Spacing the tape a distance from each end and with gaps in the middle of the grip.
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I use something like this Flush Cut wire cutter. Never mess up wraps. Pull tag then put flush cutter next to thread, thread cuts and most of the time pulls under the wrap at the same time. Burnish a little and you can't even tell there was a tag end. No razor nicks.
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Take off the spool and line your string up with the shaft angle and see where the choke point is. 16 3/8" does seem too close. I would think 20"+ would be about right.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There is no need to do anything to the blank > between the guides. Adding anything, whether it be > thread or epoxy only adds weight which detracts > from performance. A rod that heavy won't notice > the additional weight as much, but thread and/or > finish between the guides simply isn't needed.
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Seaguide are a bit less than Fuji and have ceramic rings. Their H guides are about the same height also. I also agree with Tom on dropping the 5.5 on a rod that short.
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It may also help if they put out a list of lines that would work best with that particular rod. I think we are asking too much of some these rod manufacturers to actually use a standard. The consumer(s) will need complain more before anything gets done.
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This is not normal as Norm has stated. Blanks are built on a mandril designated for a particular model, so they should be within a given tolerance. Hopefully the allowed tolerance isn't that much.
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Mark is spot on about keeping the line path straight as possible. I usually use a Fuji RV 6 mm at 0 degrees for the butt guide then for the bumpers a KB 5 mm to a KB 4 mm (assuming it for 10lbs mono or less) and KB 4 mm at 180. I align the two bumper in a straight path to the guide at 180 degrees using 60 and 120 degrees as starting points, then adjust as necessary. You may need to change the spa
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When a fly rod manufacturer introduces a line of rods it will be at peak sales for about a year, if they are lucky. After that, sales will level out and all the people that bought the rod because of all the hype already have it, other brands introduce their new offers and interest wanes. So, the manufacturer introduces a new improved version that of course cost more because you have to have the
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Fred, This has confused me in the far past but have since gotten over it. When a Fuji app is telling you to use a 30 mm guide they are telling you to use a Fuji 30 mm guide that is measured from the OD of the ring, that does not take into account the type of ring / thickness of ring used in the guide. It can only be concluded that the inner diameter doesn't matter to Fuji. You will have to get o
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