Its a bunch of hype. The Alconite guides are fine and you fishing freshwater the Fuji SS frames are fine. SIC are more prone to cracking and Torzite is too expensive. Seaguide, Kigan and Alps have a better quality stainless frame material.
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A natural cork grip that is the same length of a carbon fiber grip is lighter. Instead of EVA on the butt piece use a combo of natural and burl cork with the burl being at the end. That is the lightest I have found to do it and the burl offers more protection at the end like the EVA would. Like Herb said, it really is the swing weight. The lighter the tip section the better, sometimes more weight
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Yes it will. Direct contact with the blank is the most sensitive. I use mostly Fuji SKTS split Reel Seats on casting rods. I cast soft plastics, top waters and jerk baits with them. I do not like SK split reel seats with spinning rods because they are uncomfortable to cast. The casting ones are fine and fit in your hand much better with a lot of blank contact.
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Mud hole should be putting some fly blanks on sale for Black Friday. You can probably pick up a nice 4pc 5wt fast blank for under $100. Really good blanks for 5wts and under. Very similar to the Batsons.
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My safety tips; don't cut the tips of your fingers off with a chop saw for the length adjustment of the rod butt and inhaling the epoxy and solvent used will not get you high, but in the state of California they could cause cancer. Oh also, you could poke your eye out with tip of the blank. Wear safety glasses.
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To me it is action, power and mono line size. If I know the lure or bait to a specific fish species, then I can build a rod for it. The client can call it whatever they want. It makes it a little easier if the client tells you they want a specific type rod like a jigging or jerk bait rod, because then I can consider a suggested manufacturer's named blank. It may not be the right choice, but it i
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What reel are you using and what size? I would recommend mounting your reel seat, mount your reel, pull enough line out to go to the tip and tape it to the bottom side of the tip section. This would be the starting line for your guides. Bend the rod to about a 90 degree angle and make a mark where the middle of the arc is. Your running guides need to be at 180 degrees before that mark. You may ne
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Make a new rod from a new 2 or 3 piece blank. Roger is right and you will most likely mess up a good rod trying to convert it. There are some great blanks out for travel rods.
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The rod should balance in your hand at the grip with it slightly tipping down toward the tip, when you have the amount of line stripped out that you usually cast. I have found that light is not always better and a heavier grip depending on the reel can help "balance the rod" to where it feels it will move with less effort. The fly line can totally change everything when you have 40' of
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Great work!
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A tangle on a guide can be from casting into the wind and getting slack between the guides during the cast with the line catching the guide and looping around it. The more upright the guide, the more likely this is to happen. A guide with a angle toward the tip allows the line to slide back over the guide easier without getting caught. Hence "tangle free", but it will not always be the
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I also cut the butt of a particular blank that I build on. They are 7' and I cut them down to 6'9". It does not make the blank stiffer and does slightly slow it down. The blanks are medium light, extra fast or fast before cutting. It is a great enhancement for that type of rod. They are made to cast 1/16oz to 3/4oz lurers. 3/4oz is the upper most maximum weight.
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What happened to crack the Torzite ring? I would think that it would take more than that to crack one. Could it of been cracked prior to testing?
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I am sorry if I may have offended you Carl, that was not my intent. I was only trying to figure out your level of experience and I was not thinking of what it sounded like. Please feel free to ask for any advice or help and I promise you I will try not to sound like an idiot.
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Been wanting to get something like what Roger is using. That is the gamut of cutting blanks. I use a miter box and fine tooth Japanese Rip-Tooth Dozuki saw and tape the cut area like Thomas suggest.
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Are ya'll doing a 7' version. I want to cut it down to 6'9" but 7'2" is a little too much for me. It almost reads like a Fuji PB with that butt diameter. I will definitely give it a try.
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Carl, Have you ever built a rod before? I am not picking on you but there is a lot of experience here that can put you on the right path to making a distance cast spinning rod. If you are just building a reproduction of an antique surf rod or something that will not perform to its best with the correct components then I would say try to get the largest tip top you can find that will fit the tip
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For me sensitivity is for the bite and tug. Mono can stretch 10% to 30% depending on how much line is out past the tip of the rod and the thickness of the line. The more line, the more stretch. 100' of line = 10' of stretch. Braid doesn't have near the amount of stretch. I totally agree that the rod is part of a system that includes rod, reel, and line. I have found that reels with mono benefit w
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Found that out a while back and also noted that Fuji SS frames can be lighter than the Ti with the same ring material. I think it is because of the accepted tolerance for the frame stamping. My jewelers scale quit working, so if you get a chance, weight the new REC Cerecoil guides and see how they compare to equivalent sized Fuji KW, KB and KT guides with SIC rings. I started making a spread she
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Came out great. When you shorten the grip it effectively makes the rod longer or at least the part that cast. You do loose some leverage but I think you gain the ability to keep the fish on more easily. We do a lot of short grips because the rods are used for wade fishing.
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > LAnce, I,m not a weight fanatic..I think it,s > carried too far..it is done to improve rod > sensetivity but the rod is not the best source of > sensetitity, the line is especially braided line > so much so that I have gone back to using glass > rods..to me glass is a better fish fighting > ma
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For baitcasters, they work very well and seem to be comfortable enough. This is the lightest reel seat option that you can use. For spinning reels, they are uncomfortable, they are light but when casting lures all day you wind up with carpal tunnel syndrome at the end of the day. The type of rod I use these on are baitcasters that are light to medium power and fast or xfast action for casting 1/1
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Enough with the iffy-wiffy replies!!! If the seat > is “moving”, then either the epoxy was not > mixed properly, did not fill the joint properly, > the surfaces were not prepared properly, or there > was a contamination issue. From this end, none of > us can determine which is the culprit. The
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I am thinking he left them in is boat locker with the boat being exposed to full sunlight and 100 degree days we have been having, and the reel still on the rod. I think it slid up when it got hot to a point the pressure was relieved enough or the thread wraps stopped it. I think that it cooled down and that is why it is not loose. I may start using an epoxy that can take higher temperatures to m
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What kind of arbor did you use for the threaded > barrel? I found out many years ago that when a > split reel seat hood is overly tightened down on > the reel foot, it generates forces which tend to > push the threaded barrel forward. This forward > pushing force may loosen the adhesive bond b
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I had a baitcaster rod come back that was built with a Fuji SK split reel seat. The rod was about 2 years old and this had recently happened. The thread barrel part had slipped up toward the tip by about a 1/16". The WCS winding check on the inner part of the split at the barrel end, stayed in place and did not move but on the other end at the front, the small aluminum decorative winding ch
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If it is a dedicated rod building bench then I would only go to 24" width at the max. 24" is plenty even if you have some kind of storage toward the back, there is no sense in taking up more space with the width. The length is good although I like a nice even number like 10' or even 12' if there is room. The idea of a surface that can have the epoxy come off easy is very appealing espec
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Really a great addition to your wrapper. I believe when I did it (I also have a PacBay wrapper) I had to drill two holes to mount it with 4 bolts. Bolt it down with the two that fit and make sure it is perfectly square, then mark center for the holes. Unmount the chuck and drill the new holes. When you re-mount the new chuck, leave the the bolts loose before tightening them. Make sure it is squar
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That is a great question and the correct one to ask. I think Herb L would have the best answer for you. I would try the different ones that I have and try to figure out what head lengths and weights work best. The right line can make it the "Magic Rod". I also would not restrict it to a certain brand, but rather whatever works best.
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