And just think, people used to fish for just about any species of fish with a cane pole.
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I believe number of guides and line angle is way overthought. Lighter and smaller guides have changed everything. As Tom said; "with small, lightweight guides, you won't undermine the rod's performance to the point that you can notice a practical difference". Once you get more than one a guide a foot on the blank its going to bend, pretty much, where it needs to unless your spacing is c
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You want to use the KBs on the thicker section of the rod after your last reduction guide and the KTs on the thinner tip section, usually 3 KTs from the tip top. I have used all KTs without issue because they didn't have them or I ran out of KBs. If you want to be sure they stay on, you can use a locking wrap. Make sure you do a few wraps in front of the legs of the KH guides because most of the
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Mark, I have not built any 100# class rods but am about to start. Have fished a few and have done a little research on the guides (for spiral wraps) so this is very helpful. If you can add anymore I would appreciate it. What is the difference of IGFA rods? Also what would be the difference between a tuna rod and a bill fish rod, what lengths would be better for whatever fish or any other differe
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Even if it is made in the US it has components that are outsourced in some way. 1000# gorilla in the room is China and the Chinese Communist Party. American enterprises here go to China for cheap labor and production prices. The CCP has heavy influence on both sides of the isle through campaign donations (manipulated and under the table included). You can not buy a car in this country that does n
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Out of that group, CTS.
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Dean Veltman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Since i spiral wrap, i am thinking the bumper > guide as a kb, and the first and second 180° > guides as kb’s. Or should i add one more kb at > least on heavier rods since the bumper doesn't' > really count? I suppose having guides on the > bottom may offset the need for an extra kb though >
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have never had a digital caliper fail… because > I have never owned one! The same medium-quality > dial caliper I have owned and used for >30 years > works just fine! Same for my micrometers, depth > and height gauges. DITTO!
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"A really cool process on how to use temps to actually draw in the epoxy into places it would not normally flow into, but by using a temperature variation at the right time causes an "inhalation" of the liquid epoxy drawing and pulling it deeper into the seams and rivets. " I was taught it was a type of capillary action. Very interesting indeed.
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The reason for that particular guide in the first place, is due to the relatively small diameter of the ring and its height. This makes the line flow more in a straight line than being diverted at more angle with a lower guide of the same diameter. In order to get the height that is equivalent you would typically have to get a larger diameter ring for a stripper instead of the 6mm diameter of the
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12 RPM for me in whatever direction the drying motor wants to go. For a minute I thought we were going to be taking into account the Earths rotation in the northern hemisphere.
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I don't think they use surfacing or release agents in wrapping epoxy. Polyester resin mostly uses them for finish coats like a gel coat so they can be sanded or used in molds and are not tacky. The epoxy we use should not have release agents. I have used textured or unsanded blanks before and have just epoxied over the area where the decal will be applied. Sometimes it requires a couple of coats
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I know that the metric system is easier but I know imperial. I have to use both in my real job so thank you Google conversions. For tip diameter measurements I just use that plastic tip device with the holes in it and the measurement by them. I have never bought an electronic caliper that did not break or just quit working but I have dial calipers that I have had for over twenty years.
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Great post!
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Always buy more natural cork than you need because no matter what, you are going to get pieces that you would not use due to quality. It is like already mentioned, it is subjective and relative. I found a really good deal on cork for a $1.00 a ring from St Croix. I got 50 rings and only about half of those were usable in my opinion, but for the price I was really only expecting as much. Even if y
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Mark has nailed it down, the thread is actually harder to match. A lot of us have been building rods for many years and can pretty much make an educated guess as to who the manufacturer is because we have looked at buying them at one time or another. Measure the ring size from the OD of the ring and match the color of it to get close. Most manufactured rods use stainless or plated frames on their
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I totally agree with you Stephen, but not all people have the same reasoning or even ability to do something. A kit can be appealing in many aspects especially to someone starting off. I had always been in construction and was making surfboards at the time that I started building and the only reason was because I did not want to spend the money on a finished Sage fly rod. I did my research and fi
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I turn mine on a lathe and only use chisels when I need to take a lot off fast. I turn my cork on a high speed and mostly use a coarse bastard file that is flat on one side and half round on the other for shaping. That looks like it would also work but I am cheap Herb, so I make the file work. You come up with a method that works for you, that make you happy; and that is nice too. If it make it e
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I do a lot rods with micro guides down to 4mm and I will go 1/2 size larger on the the tip top. A 4mm guide train will have 4.5mm tip top to help pass the leader knot for braid to mono / floro. Helps a lot with spinning rods especially where it is harder to control how close you reel the leader knot to the tip. I will do it with other larger guide trains when I believe it will be an issue. The li
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Good product, outsourced blank. I do not think you will be disappointed, I believe Philip B sums it up. I will add; if it is paired with the correct line (best fly line for that rod), you may think it is the best a fly rod can be.
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When I go somewhere that I have never river fished before, I will bring a 9' 5wt fast action rod. The other thing I bring is the Lamson Liquid 3 pack that I have in the 7wt+ size. I use 8wt reels on my 5wts because of the spool diameter. I will spool a WF 5 F on one spool, WF 6 F on another and a 5wt intermediate on the 3rd spool. Modern fast blanks like TFO BVK, NFC LMX, Sage One and others can
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You will adjust your hand placement to the position of the stripper. A large man with long arms that fly fishes, has got to adjust if he is buying fly rods off the rack. The same goes for a short armed person. I have tried different stripper placement on the same blank type and there is definitely a difference to the way the rod cast and feels. The stripper distance may also have an affect on wha
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My suggestion is to use Fiberglass Mesh Drywall tape to fill the void on the foam arbors and slip them over that. You can reduce weight by cutting the Drywall Tape in 1/4" strips using them at the ends of the foam arbors and one in the middle. You need a flexible paste type epoxy to glue it all up with. I make very light rods and this is the method I use. I never use masking tape arbors.
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Just about any ceramic ring material will accommodate braid. Alconite on Fuji guides is one my favorite ring materials but because it is going to be a saltwater rod, I would want solid titanium frames and Fuji does not offer that in an Alconite ring. If you plan on having this rod for a while and using it on a regular basis, I would go with a solid Titanium alloy frame. It is costly with Fuji gui
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With a spiral wrap there is a choker guide of sorts under the rod.
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The reel type / size will be very important to that stripper placement along with the choke point. I always let that determine placement and ring size. Don Mortan's rules are spot on. It will not only be the stripper but also the ring size and alignment of the following 3 guides. The spool size determines the stripper ring size then you want to rapidly reduce the ring sizes following to control t
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If you are trying to avoid Chinese made, then you may be out of luck in this hobby. Inevitably at least half of the components and tools that we use to build rods will be outsourced to China and their cheap labor cost. The best you can do is try to avoid things that say Chinese made and get Taiwanese (Whom China claims), Korean or some other country. USA products only will not possible. One of th
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Josh, That is a great purchase that will last you a lifetime. At first you thought; "this is what I need" then you went and got what you want. There will be a small learning curve but you made a full commitment. Congratulations you are totally inspiring to me and have me going to start a new rod since my shoulder surgery. That is a heck of Christmas gift and now for a new Christmas rod
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From what I can tell Fuji doesn't seem to care what we want like Titanium Alkonite guides that they discontinued also. I would look at Seaguide from Rod Builders Warehouse, they have a black line that is very comparable to Fuji. They are good quality guides and I have been using them since they first became available (about 3 years).
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Auto parts stores carry in line fuse holders that you can you use up to whatever the amperage you need. You could use this one for what you are wanting with the correct fuse just splice it in where the old one was.
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