If for some reason it is not already epoxied in, then by all means epoxy it in first wait for it to set and then epoxy on to blank. I have been using these for the last few years and have never had to epoxy one in.
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No you don't, it is already glued in. I don't really trust pre-glued in inserts but there is small voids at each end where the insert is not quite as long as the reel seat tube, so I make sure to get epoxy on those areas also. If you don't have very much room for a foam arbor, I don't like masking tape, so I use fiberglass drywall tape cut in about 1/4" strips to use as thin arbors wrapped a
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I have not had that issue with CP making the metallic thread dull. I always use Flex Coat brand, but I think its all the same water based acrylic type coating. If you are that worried about it do a test wrap on something, apply the CP then coat it with your wrapping epoxy. Good luck.
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Herb, I have done them very thin also because I never use masking tape. I believe once you get the epoxy (I use a paste) on it and the bushing just centers the reel seat on the blank, there is enough structural integrity in the set epoxy. Never had an issue with one coming loose. Lance
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When measuring the reel seat placement, always use the same markers consistently. I always measure from the very finished butt of the rod to the back of the reel seat foot anchor. Typically 9" for wading rods and a little bit longer (10"+) for something that is going to be used off a boat or shore. This would be for bass and bay type species (redfish, specs, flounder, snook). This puts
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When I started building, like many here, there was no internet (or least not one that could be used by common people) so we had to find someone to show us how or get it from the few books that were around at the time. Maybe even come up with your own way, which would usually lead to frustration when encountering a problem. Every rod builder that I ever approach for help always offered their advic
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Robert Flowers Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Not an answer to the OP's question, but another > related question: are there transparent printer > labels that can be purchaed for ink-jet printers, > that would work for printing your own label > decals? Brother P Touch label printers with white on clear label tape. You will need the actual Bro
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I have been working on an all around medium heavy casting rod that can be used off the beach or jetty and light offshore and actually cast. It is a casting meat rod, so it is a bit out of my wheelhouse since I really only build artificial or fly rods. I believe the task gets a bit more complicated when trying new things and expecting them to work within the parameters of your knowledge and experi
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The ones I have found, that are fairly easy to get and most like Fuji are Seaguide.
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Clean then seal with this. Have cork grips over 30 years old and this keeps them from dry rotting.
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I will just add; I turn cork on the highest speed my lathe will go and have not had that problem with rubberized cork that I turn very thin. I also only go up to about 400 or 500 grit to finish. You will find something that works for you.
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I have used many mag bass blanks for other applications other than bass, and have found they do very well especially when throwing heavier baits. I like a faster action blank when the rod will be using mono and a bit slower blank for braided lines. I will always consider the line type to be used.
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Roger is the man. The equipment guru, no doubt. Has helped many with his posts, including me. That is what is so good about this forum. Sometimes we get a myopic view of what we are trying to accomplish without considering a different approach, this forum gives us this “other view” that many times works better.
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Trimming a blank at the butt or the tip will slow it down. Sometimes that is desired but from what you want to do, it will not make the action faster. Adding length to the butt will make it faster in appearance. If you do anything to take away or add to the blank it will change the performance. Its your rod, do it anyway you want. We really never know exactly if changes will attribute to a desire
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Stripper tears will improve blanks that are rolled on the thighs of virgins.
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I have done it a few times, it doesn't take much to go a little farther down the rod to get it closer to the butt. Like someone else commented you may get a bur or rough edge on the window that can be smoothed back out with 300 or 400 wet sandpaper. Just do the edge, if you have to, and try to stay off the outward facing part of the window where the blank will be exposed.
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Masking tape on the mandril, I surf so Mr Zogs Sex Wax the best wax for your stick, over the tape. Pretty much anything Roger says is golden, he has got it perfected.
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Sweet!
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I just got, this as many here may have but I thought I would post it for clarity. It may have already been posted, but I don't remember seeing it like this. WE WANT TO WELCOME THE VISITORS OF RODBUILDING.ORG to the NFC Family! Dear Rod Builders, We are pleased to announce that Rodbuilding.org is now a part of Composite Ventures, the parent company of North Fork Composites / Edge Rods. If yo
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You may want to see how the rubber reacts to the solvents you are using to clean up. I would coat them and the winding check with with epoxy. I don't think you should have a problem because there are rubber winding checks and there is nothing wrong with them. It doesn't look bad either.
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It looks like it took him a month to finish it. The embellishments most likely doubled the weight of the finished rod. We certainly do have different taste than the Japanese, but the guy is an artist.
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It sounds like a mag bass blank would work. I do medium light saltwater blanks used on kayaks and use a lot of blanks that are designated as bass blanks. Also look at the Fuji Point Blank line, they have a robust butt and a thin sensitive tip.
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If you slice carefully, with a safety razor right on top of the guide foot in a direction parallel to the blank moving toward the loop, you should be able grab a piece (s) of the thread and peal it off. Fresh epoxy should peal off pretty easy. I would not use heat on any thin section of a rod. What loop size are you replacing and with what other size?
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Thomas Kaufmann Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kent, I build 99.8% micro bass rods. Even in > micros the difference is substantial IMO. A > titanium framed vs stainless butt guide ( > especially if you are using Kw’s, IMO kw’s are > TANKS) will be almost 1/2 the weight! Many say the > difference is negligible, however; many of those >
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Keep the 5M and drop the 5 and use another 4 instead. You may also want to go with a 4.5 tip top to help accommodate leader knots or small swivels when casting. A 16 stripper ring is a good size for the 1000 sized reel.
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Alps reel seats are the cat's meow, especially for surf rods. Quality guides also. Fuji does not have surf rod reel seats like the aluminum Alps ones.
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If you use a grinder carefully, you can make short work of it.
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You really don't need Ti frames on all fresh water rods. Fuji Stainless frames with Alconite rings will work great. I would use an RV6 or KW10 followed by KB5s and KT5s on the tip section with 5 tip top. I believe any quality frame that is similar to these would also work. AT, Seaguide, Alps or Kigen.
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For bubbles in the wraps, put the flame directly under the wrap without it actually touching the blank. Remember to keep the blank turning while doing this and even moving the flame from side to side and only for an instant. On the tip top; gently heat just the tip frame (not the blank) and remove with some needle nose pliers. Epoxied tips can be removed this way without damaging the blank, MOST
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I always build pieced fly rods on the straightest axis as stated by Tom (tip up or down but not sideways). Otherwise it will look crooked or off as you have experienced. Re-align the pieces on the straightest axis and put the guides on accordingly. If there is a severe bend, ask for a replacement. You can't change the grip and reel seat if already done so the next three pieces need to be aligned
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