In my humble opinion, your choice of guide ring size is spot on. That's what I would do mine with and the lighter the better for casting artificial lures. With a 2500 reel there is no need for a larger stripper guide than a 20 and the height of the KH is ideal at the correct spacing to the choke point. Using a larger stripper than a 20 with that reel spool diameter will cause you to get more of a
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This topic by nature is political. What I am seeing is a worldwide reset expressed at the World Economic Forum in Davos, Switzerland. The current state of the United States and the lack of oil production from here is affecting the world markets in a very negative way. At this point there is no stability except for those who have the money to create it. It is opening opportunities in markets that
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The KSKSS is an uncomfortable reel seat to cast all day and work lures. Using it for primarily a bait rod will would work because you are not constantly casting and working the lure. Mark's Tennessee handle sounds like a great choice if you want it as light as you can get it. I like the Fuji VSS with a short EVA grip and hooded foregrip nut. Very comfortable and you could cut a little more weight
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I put together a 9' 10wt 4pc Sage One blank with Fuji Ti framed Alconite 7mm L guides (bought them on sale after Fuji discontinued them) for runners and a TKGTT 8mm tip top. The stripper guides I used were Fuji KW 20mm and KW 10mm Ti Torzite. The first fish caught on the video is with that rod the second and after is a 8wt rod I put together with a TFO BVK blank and conventional double foot snake
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EVA Foam or burnt burl cork rings. You can get EVA sheets in different colors and thicknesses at Hobby Lobby or other craft stores. Here from Amazon.
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Unless a $500 - $2,000 rod blank can be proved - > with NUMBERS - to cast MORE ACCURATELY or CAST > FARTHER than a say, $69.95 blank, I submit the > person who buys the $500 - $2,000 rod blank seeks > to buy recognition and respect, not a rod to catch > fish. I have encountered a surprising num
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Michael Ward Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > SeaGuide has one very similar in style available > in stainless and titanium I use these also and Rod Builders Warehouse is a sponsor.
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The worth of a product is whatever someone is willing to pay for it, no matter how much it cost to produce it. I think you made a mistake on the weight of the 8wt fly rod unless it has been severely cut down in length. I would probably pay $1000+ for a 9' 8wt that light. 3.75oz is very light for something like that because a light one like a NRX is 4.1 oz. 2.75 oz is extreme.
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It is like a a golf stroke in some ways, that when you learn, if you learn to do it wrong; it will always be a problem. The answer to your question is a "camera". Take a video of your cast, see what your doing wrong and correct it. This brings up some other thoughts. I taught myself to cast for saltwater fishing, where distance is a goal (one of a few). I only had a Lefty Kreh Saltw
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Afterwords, it just makes sense if you are already turning grips on a mandrel. To me, the shape needs to be right before anything.
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When I first started I really didn't think to much about it and just started from the butt to the tip on the right side of the rod. It just looked right to me. If I put decals on the left side it is from the tip to the butt. I put my logo center to right top of the blank and the blank and line description below that, butt to tip. Where do you guys put your logo? Top center, right or left side? Ve
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Its a custom rod and you can do whatever you want, so wrapping over the tube may be aesthetically appealing to you. Something like a signature for the rods you build. I do not do it but I do a decorative wrap at the tip, up to the tube and when I put the epoxy on the wraps I slightly coat the end of the tube. On some of my ultra light builds I will not do a decorative wrap at the tip, but I like
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The messed up shape grips can be easily shaped into thin pieces that are just straight cylinders that will make great foregrips. Turn your cork at high RPM, roughly shape leaving it thick (thicker than the finished thickness) then finish it with less course sandpaper. Measure the whole time and do a little at a time. You can take off but you can't add, as you have found out the hard way. I us
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Some people like pretty guides that have some kind of mineral/stone rings (Heavy), but I am going to recommend performance type guides to keep it as light as possible. I would use either Fuji KW 20 and KW 10 with REC double foot snake RSNX size 6 then size 4 double foot snakes to the tip with a large loop tip top. You could also go with the REC Cerecoil CSG double foot in size 20 and 10 for s
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Good stuff LAnce..I like tinkering with rods and > guides and I,m sure you do too..my most favorite > build is on a lamiglas im904t pitching rod casting > a very large bass bug I make using moose mane on > 5/0 hook..I use a720 grain twenty seven foot > shooting head with a forty foot piece of #7l
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2 Ceramic Strippers (Double foot) and the rest double foot snakes. Let us know if you need sizes.
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Repeat
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I have done some fairly extensive testing using ceramic guides for runners on fly rods. My findings are that more are needed than double foot snake guides for similar casting results. They have a smoother feel and sound than wire guides. You can cast just as far with them. They are slightly heavier than double foot snake guides so they will make the tip slightly heavier. This can be counterbalanc
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What scrim types are being used for modern blanks now, or at least what is NFC using for their current lines? What type of prepreg material (fibers) is available for the different blank lines and does NFC have a specific proprietary epoxy formula for the different lines? Is it a "one type fits all" for different material fibers? What are the countries of origin for the prepreg? Just try
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You will be able to pass a swivel!
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They appear to be just like Decal Connection decals. My rule for undercoats: If the blank has a gloss finish, no undercoat needed. If it is sanded, ridged or not glossy it gets an epoxy undercoat. I also always put CP over the decal and the edges to prevent resin lifting the edges. It will save you a lot of heartache. I can make decals so the Mod-Fast thing isn't a big deal, but there is some mer
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I turn my butts on a short mandril piece I made for my lathe but you can also do it on a backwards drill bit. If you chuck your fly rod section on the ferrule you will probably damage it. I do all my butt pieces last because I will use the blank end in my wrapper for the build. Never really had any problems like that.
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Typically if you can cover more water you can catch more fish. Whatever it takes to cast farther when needed is what will work. Double hauling can achieve this for most people. Fishing in narrow rivers and streams it is not necessary. learning to roll cast and other river fly fishing techniques is though. The correct method for the type of water conditions. If it gives you more confidence, buy th
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Manufacturers of rod blanks go to great lengths to > produce the lightest, most sensitive, most > responsive rod blanks for savvy rod builders. A > significant number of rod builders cover these rod > banks with large and often multi-layered > decorative thread windings and layers of finish. &
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: Alex purvis wrote: Thanks for the response and suggestions. Do you have any photos of your builds using the testers? Alex, I have registered for the photos page but have never gotten the confirmation email. This is one of the big problems with this site. Looks like John Cates has the answer also. I have tried and used the VooDoo pigments but only for something to be completely opaque. Please
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I have done silver and blue metalic and it came out great. I used the blue metalic for the top also.
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Mike makes a valid claim. It could be made easy enough that the photos posted in the blog could also be posted in a Photos page automatically and that all the existing photos also be added in that page. Another linked section with "How To" videos and existing written descriptions would be great also. Many of members could post their own videos on how they do stuff (if so desired). I kno
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No heat gun, blows up dust that I didn't even know I had. Alcohol burner.
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Alex purvis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Hobby Lobby or Michaels. You can also use > Testers > > model paint. Let it settle for a few days then > > drain the clear thinner that is on top and keep > > the concentrated pigment.
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Hobby Lobby or Michaels. You can also use Testers model paint. Let it settle for a few days then drain the clear thinner that is on top and keep the concentrated pigment. Use a little to make it translucent.
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