Roger, This was all new to me, because I really basically only fish inshore bay these days, but I have a lot of experience on the Pacific coast of mainland Mexico from back in the 80s and also offshore Gulf of Mexico and Pacific Tropical waters. So, what would you recommend for a conventional bait casting reel? Something that will cast the farthest. Price is not an issue. The blank was sold to
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Double foot snake guides. I do not recommend single foot snake guides. If you are to use single-foot guides use ceramic ones and add more than you would double foot snakes. The double foot snake guide is the lightest and the best casting set up.
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You are good, I do it all the time. The RV6 Has the height you want to produce a straight line to the tip ands only comes in a Ti frame. The difference in ring material is null.
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Roger, I built something very similar to what you are trying to do. I wanted a rod that would be for casting off jetties, piers, beaches and boats for Bull Reds, Kingfish, Tarpon, Wahoo, Triple Tail, small Tuna, Dolphin, and Ling (or anything else 20 to 100 lbs.). Baits to be used include large artificial crank baits, plugs, poppers, spoons, jigs, spinners, plastics, live and dead baits. Becau
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It is opinion and personal preference. I have most always put the tip down especially on fly rods. Because the bend on the blank is so mild (I would send a severe bend back) I have found no difference that I could perceive. The consensus seems to build on the straightest axis of the blank. If your blank is really straight then build using the spine as a reference, that would be tip up or down, ag
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I just got one of these and was wondering if anybody else has tried them and what do they think or have to say about them. Are they prone to breaking, feel good in hand, etc. There is not much material and am a little worried.
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Sometimes in the production of any product, you are going to have things that make it past the manufacturer, ie Murphy's law. The problem arises when we get emotional (anger) about a defect in a product that we waited for, and it came at the last minute possible that it could be used and now the process must start over. Obviously, you found the correct response to insight an emotional reaction ou
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I am from the Houston area. Fishing East Galveston bay during the 80s and using All Star rods and Shimano Bantam baitcaster reels. That was the chit back then, casting Rapala Jumping minnows and Corkys along with plastic popping shrimp. If I broke a guide or something else (never broke an All Star rod) I would go to the factory and they would replace it or the whole rod. Still have a few of those
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I have good luck with most of their metallic threads. Just don't burnish too much as with any metallic thread. I have not noticed any difference in color or getting darker without CP. You may want to do a test first, just to be sure. I have not tried the Sulky thread.
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The way I started was by taking my favorite rod and duplicating it with what I thought at the time, would be some improvements. Build on what you know and make it better. Find out what works and what doesn't.
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They spent a lot of money on their website and promotions. Its to cover that type of overhead. I guess its the Bushido of angling. The way of the angler. Rich offshore fishermen will pay that for a rod. About the same as filling up the boat and fishing a tournament for a few days.
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I fish mainly saltwater so I use guides with titanium alloy frames. Ring material really doesn't matter but guide height and ring size do. The brands I use for my builds are FUJI and Seaguide. You want guides that the rings don't pop out very easily and when bent can be bent back in place. These have had the least issues in the last 30 years of rod building. The grips I use are mostly natural
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On spinning rods the placement of the first 3 guides closest to the reel should be based on the reel and angle of the spool toward the choke point of the blank. The rest will be for the static load. You need less guides on a spinning rod because the line is below the rod and more guides on a casting rod because the line is above the rod. Casting rod running trains are based on the guide ring size
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The least amount of failure with Fuji but am using more Seaguide now and they have held up well. I use frame material that will not corrode in saltwater environments. Titanium alloy frames work best for this purpose. It is also a plus if you can bend an accidently bent guide back into place without it breaking apart. I believe that has more to do with how the material was heat treated and some of
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DOUBLE TAP
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It looks good and would work for a 6wt but I just couldn't use it on the build I had intended to go on due to the weight. Weight in that area of the rod is really not going to hurt anything and may even improve the balance but it will add to the overall weight. I believe they have one with holes drilled in it to make it lighter. If you like it go for it and I don't think it will be an issue with
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I prefer Shimano over all other brands because they generally cast better and last a little longer than others. I do like some Daiwa spinning reels. I think that Daiwa did not get recognition in the past for their spinning reels. JDM Cheaper to buy, Shimano Curado DC is excellent for casting in the wind even with limited settings compared to higher end Shimano DC reels ( I own several). I only bu
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I build mostly baitcaster rods and my go to blank that will do Top waters like a 4.5" Top Dog or a Zara Spook and the 3.5" jerk baits (Yo Zuri Crystal 3D) is a NFC P703-1 (Lambda LMX) cut down to 6’8.75” (with butt nets 6’9”). The tip is soft enough to easily get the side to side action you are looking for. I use 10# mono that will stretch, so if you use braid, you may want something a
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Make sure you use a quick set epoxy (about 15 minute set time) for reel seats and grips. Gel is easier to mix. And a wrapping epoxy for the guide and decorative wraps / weaves (will take about 4 hours to set). High or low build will work, just start with thin coats and make sur you mix thoroughly. If you heat the wrapping epoxy, by putting the containers in cups with warm water then mix, it wil
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The guy in the video must have some serious skin on his thumb. I would have a giant blister and a piece of that burnt melted nylon line stuck in the head of the blister. I have done the glue wrap as Tom stated only because I got lazy and wanted to see if it actually would work (many years ago before this site). There may be some merit in it for some situations. I have also tried wrapping down the
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Really when it comes down to it on spinning rods, it is the reel. The reel is most of the weight of the entire set up. If you can lighten the reel then the overall performance of the set up is going to improve in spite the the rod components. If the rod is made to to dissipate the line motion (Fuji Concept and Rapid Reduction) of the line, it will cast farther. Casting reels have been made to be
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am on the NFC site. Do I need to re-enter my > information? Same here.
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I just like the look of an aluminum seat on fly rods. A composite seat looks strange to me. For 20#-50# class and above, uplocking aluminum is the way to go. You don't want to chance that expensive reel going in the dink.
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I think if you get them in 4.5 and 5 you should be covered although the 12wt may have a 5.5. I have found that there could be some difference in the actual tip size than what is published. I usually get the tip tops after I have actually measured the blank tip. You can build most of the rod without the tip top, starting with the grip section, so by the time it comes in you should be ready for it.
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Fuji K Ti frames and SIC rings. For casting rods: I like the KW with KB and KT. I have weighed the Minimas, the ones I weighed weighed, weigh more than than the SS Fujis, but I have not weighed all the Minimas. The Seaguide TiXBG, TiXOG-N and TiGOG-W with RS rings are pretty light also. For spinning: Fuji KLH with the KT & KB guides. Seaguide TiXOHG with the TiXOG-N & W. You can make a v
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Aluminum would definitely be worse. If the reel seat is getting that dirty then the reel is also getting messed up. Don't set your rod flat on the sand or ground, you will be buying new reels after just using them a couple of times.
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Less double foot snake guides like 10 and a tip top on a 9' rod will have the least amount of tip weight making it a better casting rod. You need more single foot guides to get good casting characteristic similar to the double foot snakes. I have extensively experimented with these set ups and that is the conclusion I have come up with. If you use the same amount and placement of single foot gui
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Ronald Atchley Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Mud hole should be putting some fly blanks on > sale > > for Black Friday. You can probably pick up a > nice > > 4pc 5wt fast blank for under $100. Really good > > blanks for 5wt
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I fish mostly inshore saltwater along the Texas upper and mid coast for Trout, Redfish and Flounder. My current main rod is: Fuji Point Blank 6'9" Medium Light Power (PB691MLXF), Extra Fast Action Blank. Fuji Torzite Guides in a Spiral wrap; 1-RV 6mm, 1-KB 5mm, 4-KB 4mm and 3-KT 4mm and a 4.5mm Tip Top. This rod will do it all artificial from Top Waters to plastic Jigs to 1/8 oz. Total rod
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Although a Fuji supporter, I have always wondered > why Fuji uses 302/303/304 SS rather than 316SS > which has the best corrosion resistance of the > commonly-available SSs.?.?.? That said, I have not > experienced any corrosion on Fuji SS guides on my > saltwater builds. Nonetheless…. I have o
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