If you can keep the line path straight to the choke point I think it would work and cast. They just don't make them in the right height.
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I made a jig to tie the FG. I use a strip of wood about a 2" x 1" x 10"L with a 2" screws that stick up about 1.5" from the surface at each end. It really helps. I only use it for fly line to backing. For braid to mono or floro leader I use a Uni knot. Haven't knocked out a ring yet. I usually don't reel it in past the tip top when casting. If you are using a very long le
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Marc Morrone Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Honestly I think the Microwave runners are not > getting enough credit. I replace them because I > like size 6 runners - but if you don't mind 5's > they are good! > > And do try them - like it said - it's fun to watch > them work! I believe this is what it really comes down to, Fun.
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Marc, The seat should hold the reel foot parallel to the blank. The real itself will be angled toward a choke point or visual line of site to some part of the blank when mounted. You can take the spool off and turn the main shaft till it is sticking out the most, use a straight edge or string in line with the reel main shaft to find the line of site choke point on the blank. Fuji at Anglers Reso
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Gold trim bands and your green thread you already have.
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We did some comparisons with identical blanks, grips, and reel seat placement when they first came out with spinning builds. We only did this once with these blanks and only for spinning rods so this may not be the best test. With repeated cast the Fuji Concept rod (rapid reduction) consistently cast farther by about 5 to 10 feet. Without having to really think about guide placement and size, the
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The way I look at it is in your style of casting. I started building rods by doing fly rods 1st. The only reason I got into it was because I didn't want to spend the money on a top of the line fly rod. The rods I wanted to use were for saltwater. I started to read (no internet at the time) everything I could about saltwater fly fishing and one person's name kept coming up, Left Kreh. In his books
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There are still a lot of rods being built wrong the old way. The rapid reduction Concept system works best, so far.
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If the line path and the guide spacing look wrong, then change it. If it doesn't look too bad, leave it alone. I am not a fan of cutting off the tip of a blank. You may want to try a different blank where you don't have to cut the tip off. It will most likely perform better. It is a custom rod and you should do what you want, just a little advice from a grouchy old man.
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Tom Wood Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks so much. It is for salt water and I will > follow your good advice. I had planned on going > with a 20,16, followed with six 3s. Will adding a > 10 benefit casting? I believe in a more rapid reduction on the strippers much like a spinning rod. The larger 20 mm ring is for errant cast where your ha
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Two coats of CP over the top and edges. It stops the fish eye over the decal and keeps it epoxy from penetrating the edges that will lift them. Make sure it is dry before applying epoxy. Apply epoxy in long even strokes down the length and turn at about 12 RPMs. Two to three coats and you should be good.
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Here are three different choices that I have done for stripper guides. 1) Fuji KW 20 or 16 with the following KW 10. 2) Seaguide TiXTG 20 or 16 with the following TiXTG 10. 3) REC Cerecoil Double Foot CSG 20 with the following CSG 10. If it is for saltwater get Titanium frames.
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I would not cut down a fly rod blank so the direction you are going in with a spinning blank sounds the most economical and better for the application. I would also look for a medium power fast action blank that flexes more toward the middle of the blank than just off the tip. That is somewhat confusing but if you can cherry pick out of some blanks something like that would be better for a fly ro
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Francis, Look at label printers like the Brother P Touch PT-P700. They have White on Clear tape and you can also get Green on Clear, Red on Clear and Blue on Clear. It can print from an original mono tone Logo or you can use their Fonts. The tape comes in 1/2", 3/4" and 1" widths. There are other label printers too like the Epson (LW-PX400 White on Clear and Gold on Clear 3/4"
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Wrap all your guides first, they can sit a while, you may have to blow some dust off or whatever gets on them. You can also adjust the straightness of your wrapped guides before epoxying. Just be careful not to let the wrap unravel. You can also repack the thread with a burnishing tool if you get gaps when adjusting the guides. After adjusting and repacking / burnishing, I will apply any color pr
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I would not worry about abrasion with any modern type of guide. I have had the black paint peel off the Fuji black guides so I really wouldn't worry about the black anodized REC guides (if that is what it is). AT and Seaguide both make black guides. I believe Kigan does also.
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Most likely a 20mm ring. If the spool is really wide, then a 25mm. If very narrow a 16mm ring. I have found a 20mm accommodates most spinning reels in that size.
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Try to iron it.
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My set up would be a Fuji RV6 and the rest KB5s with the last 3 guides near the tip KT5s. Doesn't have to be complicated. I like the size 5s for running guides due to the heavier line size. I would use a 4mm ring for 10# mono or 20# braid. Instead of the Fuji the AT guide would be a Typhoon DCRLS-8 stripper guide and the rest Titan Artus 4s. It doesn't look they have them in 5mm rings. Bothe set
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Very sorry to hear that. He was a great guy and a real enthusiast. I will miss talking to him at the component events. Prayers to his family.
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Survey says: Straightest axis.
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Charge enough to cover the cost of components and decide if its a business or for fun. Not much help, but if you need more money; charge more.
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5wt and up RSFX because the wire is already thin enough. I feel the light weight, thin wire guides will wear the larger fly line more. Maybe it is just paranoia. I use food grade silicone spray as fly line dressing and have not really noticed any strange sound. You may just need to clean your line if you hear something. I have been using REC double foot snake guides on most of my builds so I rea
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If it is supposed to be under 2oz then I expect it to be under 2oz. It makes a difference if you are trying to make it light. Maybe it is longer than what you bought it as and you can cut the weight off the butt.
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Pat, If you used ceramic guides (I prefer over single foot snakes) you did an excellent job. That is exactly how I would of done it. With double foot snake guides you could of gotten away with 10 + a tip top. I have done 3 wt to 10 wt rods like this and they all cast very well and really did not add that much weight to affect the action a bunch. It really comes to finding the correct line espec
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I think Nick nailed it down for you, I like the KW stripper guide recommendation but dislike the single foot snake guides. I would use a L frame ceramic instead of single foot snakes. Double foot snakes are better for running guides but if you are going to single foot, do ceramic inserts, they feel really slick when the line moves through them. Cork grips, you really can't go wrong there. Real se
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Michael Ward Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I like the disclaimer…. > > “ Please note, this Airrus fishing rod is a > technical instrument assembled with H.M. carbon > fiber and it is not recommended for novice > anglers.” > > Ie - pleas no high sticking - this isn’t a > UglyStik I got a real kick out of that too. So how
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Casting Reel Seats with actual exposed blanks and not inserts (1 piece): Fuji ACS, ACSM, ECSM, R3200, R3201 & R3230. / 2 Piece: SK2 casting. Seaguide 2 Piece: HSC casting. Spinning Reel Seat (No insert): Seaguide SAS (1 piece). 2 Piece: Fuji SK2 Spinning and Seaguide HSC spinning. There are probably other brands but this is what I would use or have used. You will need to buy these by si
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A lot will depend on how the rods are stored as to, how fast will the epoxy yellow. Like said earlier, "it all will yellow". White rods stored on a boat or in a hot area are going to get yellow quicker. Out of the sun in a dark cool place is best. Thick coats of epoxy are more noticeable and yellow quicker. They do look good when new though. The only type of stains I have seen on rods I
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Roger, I did want the yardage on the reel because I thought I could use it for red snapper jigging around the near shore rigs here. They are in about 60' to 200' of water and you never know what else you might hook up. The magnetic spool adjustment is definitely a plus on the SM reel. I see where you are going and I believe it will work. I don't think you will have a problem using the single fo
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