You need to figure out if it is a stand up rod or one that fishes off the rail or in a fighting chair. Because it is only rated for up to 40# it seems it would be a stand up rod. Is it going to be a spinning or conventional reel rod? Figure out what you want and this site can help you with the right information.
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Sweet, really like those reel seats.
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I use them all the time. If the blank has a flat or sanded finish then apply epoxy first. I cut the corners round and burnish making sure to not have trapped bubbles. Extra burnish on corners and edges. Apply two coats of CP and epoxy over, usually two coats is sufficient. Its the same for just about any decal.
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The metallic threads hold guides just as good as any but they may have a tendency to flake if stressed too much. Nylon stretches more than poly and is easier to work with because of that, whereas poly will make you hold tension on it to get tight wraps, less forgiving. You get better at it and soon it doesn't matter. I have found that some brands are better at not being contaminated than others b
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Bill Hickey Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have 2 Dremel power tools, one is the electric, > very high RPM, variable speed, yes it can be used > for that, but it is aggressive. With any other > tool or procedure, you get a feel for it and when > it can be useful. > The other one is a rechargeable model (wife bought > it to trim my
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This is going to make many people angry because they have not done the testing for themselves. A lot of us make a big deal about weight of the guides. What I have seen is that tip top fly guides and guides with stainless steel inserts weight a lot more than ceramic single foot rings, It is really simple, the more guides you have, the straighter the line is going, It will cast farther because th
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I use 15 or 30 minute clear epoxy with the Bill Hickey washer, wingnut technique. Whatever glue you use you want it to be thin, waterproof and dry or set clear. I have tried paste epoxy and you can see epoxy between the rings. You may want that, but I prefer not. I also put them on a mandril and turn them on a lathe.
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Lance, > Are you still having to glue the ST741-1 together > into a one piece, or are they sending them out as > a one piece now? I have not actually purchased that blank. Just looking at the specs for his application it looked like it would be suited for his purpose. On their site it is supposed
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Up until very recently I have had some prejudice against single foot wire guides. Are they really lighter than single foot ceramic guides of similar size? I will weigh some that I have and see. I think that you need a few more than you would DF Snakes on a rod of the same length. A double foot snake guide will hold the line straighter with less sag in between guides than single foot guides at the
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Charlie, What size line in mono will you be using and what baitcaster reel? I think its a great idea. The spiral setups I do work in exactly the range you are using them for except mine go up to larger heavier top water lures. Don't be discouraged, I like the direction you are going in. I cast a little 1/16 oz jig head with my baitcaster spiral wrapped using a Shimano Curado DC 150, Core 50, or
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No that is correct. The smaller guides eliminate the "wave" in the line allowing it to go straighter through the guides. More distance and most likely better accuracy. You also need more guides because they are lower to the blank and to keep the line off it. Place the butt guide about 20" from the reel face and the first running guide about 3.25" from the tip top. I would use
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Too long a cure time, more chance to get a bug or something else in it. Pros; will level completely and no bubbles.
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Matt Ruggie Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Lance > Do you ever offset the butt guide in the > direction of the spiral. I did a couple with the > offset butt and dont see any line stacking on the > reel. Not sure it makes a huge difference > TBH..Like to hear your thoughts or anyone's for > that matter. I just put it at 0 degr
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Add a couple of more than you would double foot snakes. It will cast better. For the lightest tip top consider using a Fuji Torzite KG Arowana 6 or 7. Lighter than a REC, or other Fly large loop tip tops.
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I don't know any brands other than what we use sold as wrapping epoxy, but I do know the properties I am looking for. The properties I look for in a wrapping epoxy: It needs to be clear, flexible, self leveling and cure without leaving a tacky surface. Craft stores will have epoxies that may fit your bill. I would try whatever your wife is using on a sample piece and see if it is flexible enough
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To get the line in a more straight path toward the tip. A smaller and not tall butt guide will need to be farther away from the reel. The taller guides with small rings like the Fuji RV 6 are higher framed so they can be put closer to the reel and create that straight line path through the runners to the tip. Typically you want your butt guide about 20" to 21" from the face of the reel.
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That's what I was thinking John. You would probably have to point it out to someone for them to see it.
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I once had the notion that a conventional casting rod would perform better than a spiral wrap but because of using micro guides, I have found they cast better than micro guides mounted on the top of the blank. To keep the line off the blank you must use more guides (more weight) on top than on bottom. The thing that causes the most friction on the line is the line touching the blank. The spiral w
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8 1/2 would be great to learn on and more of a general size that has multi uses, not just for small streams. It really is about technique, where if she learns on a shorter rod it may limit her overall conceptions about casting and everything else that goes with it. When she needs to cast farther because of different water, she will have to learn all over again with a short blank. Just my thoughts
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Standard grade (A) natural cork rings run as low as $0.36 1.25" x .5". Higher premium grade (Flor) can run anywhere from $2.25 to $4.00+ for the same size ring. The ratings are all over the place so A, AA, AAA, AAAA and Flor don't have a lot of meaning. They will even put filler in lower grade cork rings and sell them as high grade rings. Burl and rubberized cork are fairly consistent
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Duane, What is the brand and name of the finish. It just sounds like a bad batch of epoxy. I would call the manufacturer and tell them, and see what they say. These types of epoxies are done in short runs at the plants that make them. The same plant and process system may be used for other similar chemical compounds after they are cleaned and passivated. A new operator, valve malfunction, improp
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Butt length 1.5" to 2" with the largest diameter not much over or right at the largest grip diameter. It will look more proportional if you stay within that parameter. I usually use natural cork so the butt is natural cork and burl cork at the very end. To me rubberized cork is too heavy but really it won't hurt and may help balance the rod.
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John, I pretty much wrote the exact same thing as Herb before it got erased this morning (my fault). I would do a 16 cerecoil and a 10 cerecoil then the rest exactly as Herb says. I also like a Fuji KW 16 and 10. I will not ever use single foot snakes again because they just do not work as well as the double foot snake. If you use single foot add two more to your running train. Better yet dump
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I always use tape that I cut in thin strips. I tried dental bands but they were too difficult to remove without damaging the blank (at least for me). I saw something with a bead and a thin elastic cord piece that looked like you could adjust the tension and remove easy enough. I have not tried it yet because the tape is working for me for now.
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I tape the area with masking tap to help hold the fibers in place then cut with a fine tooth Japanese style miter saw using a miter box, then sanded the cut to square it up. Really don't have to sand that much because it makes a fairly square cut.
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I was just looking at the Point Blanks for this build and Joel is correct for what you want. You may also want to look at the North Fork Composites X-Ray line. Very similar. Depending on where you are going to place your seat, you most likely will need to go with a 17 size reel seat with that type of blank with a large butt and taper. There really isn't that much difference in diameter between a
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When we look at anything under a microscope we will see the flaws. Nothing is perfect, only God can do that, we just try to get as close as possible. I hope this comforts you as it has me in the past. I am very anal about anything I do and at some point you just have to step back and let it be. I only use a brush, I have tried other methods and this works best for me. A light thin coat applied wi
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A stiff material like the outer layer of carbon fiber coming into contact with the blank is going to transmit the most vibration with the least amount of resistance, so I would think that a hollow core that had chambers with supports of similar material that could be reamed out and make direct contact with the blank, would be the most sensitive. The hollow chambered ones I have used are not buil
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There was a picture of George Bush Sr fishing in Port Aransas, holding a spinning rod & reel upside down. Maybe it was custom made for him. LOL
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I have found pens at Hobby Lobby that will work with different tip sizes. They are opaque and have metallic colors (gold, silver, copper). My penmanship is not that great on a round surface like a blank so I use decals.
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