I use 8 to 15 lb braided line. I use the stuff I would normally throw away when changing line on my reels. I like fluorescent yellow or chartreuse, because it makes the loops more visible. Norm
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Many rod producers used paint to make ‘faux’ trim wraps, this was a cheap way to go because it saved wrapping time. If I were you I would get rid if the paint and do a real thread trim wrap it looks better. If you insist on using paint then select a Testors enamel in the color you want and paint the area where you want it to show. You will need to use a NoCP thread or cp with regular thread to ma
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For me a 6 1/2’ is ‘tweener’, sometimes 5 runners sometimes 6. It will not make a big difference in either casting or fish handling ability. Since it is an ultra light I might go with 6 just to spread the load out a little more evenly. In my opinion it is your choice. As suggested by Tom mock up the rod and test both or as Michael suggests all three. The only thing is to make sure you get a nice
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Permagloss is one of the best choices for clear coating a rod. Do a search here, there are a lot of posts on how to do it. Very easy to apply to a naked blank and gives great results. There also are a lot of posts concerned with refrubishing and restoring old rods. It is not that difficult to do just go slow and easy, and don’t use 100 grit paper. I usually scrape the old finish off with a blade
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I always do all my reel seats down locking, I dislike unlocking reel seats, they were one of the reasons I starting making rods about 49 yrs ago. Direct contact of the reel seat with the blank is good thing, it will make the rod a little more sensitive. Many casting reel seat today are made to directly fit the blank. Take the shine off the blanks were the reel seat fits with steel wool or a scot
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Can honestly say I have repaired many many broken rods with internal plugs that are still in use after many many yrs. As long as you get a nice smooth curve under flex they will perform well and last for a long time. I think Roger will agree with this. If you have any concerns about repairing a rod then put it in your broken rod stash, and do as I suggested and check the warranty policy of the ma
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I agree with Roger, you can certainly insert a fiberglass or lower modulus graphite plug to join each of the two broken sections together. However, you will need a source of broken rod pieces with the proper taper in order to do the repair. If you are good at turning you may be able to turn a piece of solid fiber glass or graphite rod to the proper taper. The plug will need to span the break by
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The MHX crankbait rods are quite nice. I have made a number of them, and the people I have made them for love them. You can just about buy two MHX blanks for the price of one SCIV. Have not built a big crankbait rod with a RodGeeks blank, but have built on other RodGeeks blanks and they are very nice and also affordable. Norm
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Denatured alcohol is ethanol that has a little methanol mixed with to make it poisonous, this avoids having to pay alcohol taxes on it. It is a two carbon primary alcohol that is produced by fermentation, it is a very good solvent for a lot of things. Isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) is a 3 carbon secondary alcohol, it is cheaper to make than ethanol and is also a very good solvent. Both do very s
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I use 4 - 9 rpm drying motors, but it does not make a lot of difference. They all work, I just like slow speeds for drying, and fast speeds for applying. John is correct in saying that a variable speed DC mother gives you the option of slowing down or speeding up, they are the best of two worlds. I have one that goes from 0 to 45 rpms. You can apply epoxy and dry using the same motor.. Norm
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I would use the Fuji KR set up. If you are not going to use titanium guides, then I would use a KW10 stripper followed by a KW5.5 transition guide, and KB/KT runners size 5 or 4.5, your choice. If you are going to use titanium guides then use the RV6 followed by either a KW5.5 or KB5.5 as a transition guide, and the KB/KT runners in the size you want. Have built a number of deep cranking rods and
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Alcohol evaporates quickly, and is a very good solvent which will remove oils and other contaminants without affecting the blank. Wiping down a blank might not be necessary for most blanks, but since it doesn't hurt why not! It's just a form of insurance. I also agree with the others; tip up for both spinning and casting rods. The weight of the guides will tend to straighten the rod and will
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In my opinion Thread Master yellows much less than any other epoxy finish I have used. If you want something that never yellows use Permagloss. Requires several coats to get a smooth finish, and it is very hard, but will never yellow. Norm
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Goo Gone. Norm
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High frame small ring guides are not a new thing, they have been around for a long time. They were called Match guides, which for a given ring size are very similar in height to new Fuji KL-H guides, and are very popular in Europe for use on Match rods. At one time Fuji match guides were sold here in the US, and PacBay still sells them here. The Fuji KL-H guides are basically a match guide that
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I am a researcher at heart, and when the KR concept first came out I had to try it. The very first cast I made with my KR concept spinning rod I was hooked, and have not looked back. It gives a very light and responsive rod that casts smooth quiet and far. The KL16H stripper works extremely welll with 1000 to 2500 sized reels with light line. It’s not the guides ring size that’s important it,s th
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For a given ring size the AT guides are are very similar in height to Y guides. The KLH guides for a given ring size are taller than either the AT or Y guides. So a KL16H is the same height as an AT20. If you want want to use KR concept build for you 7’ UL rod then you would use a reduction train consisting of KL16H, KL8H, and KL5.5M, followed by KB/KT4.5 or 4 runners. The KL16H stripper would
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I agree with Mathew, chip it off. If it is anything like the handles I did on some old bamboo rods It should come off quite easily. You can easily clean it up by gentle scrapping. They did not use epoxy back when that rod was made. Do not need to get the handle area pristine since the new grip will cover up where the old handle was located. I would not use a strong solvent because it may affect t
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Not much, the last 14" or so of the butt is equiradius. Making it easy to fit winding checks if you use them. Just buy one size. Norm
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I own both the PB701MF and the PB701MH and love both of them. Both will throw 1/2 oz great, not sure which one I would pick. They both weigh about the same and feel similar. Depends on how much power you want. The PB701MF has an IP of 690gm with an AA of 78, the PB701MHF has an IP of 800 gm and an AA of 78. So both are very powerful and very fast. Norm
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Some tip tops that are put on using epoxy can be very difficult to remove even when heating. Do as Matthew suggests and heat while pulling. Hopefully, it will come off without any damage to the blank, but no guarantee. When replacing the new tip top use a hot melt adhesive, it precludes the problems you are now experiencing. Norm
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I believe the spacing charts for NFC blanks are for the NGC, which utilizesY guides for the reduction train and L guides as runners. The smallest runner they use is a size 6 L guide. If you want to use the microwave or KR guides then you should follow the recommended guide spacing given with the Microwave kit, which is 9 guides, or use the KR GPS, which also recommends 9 guides for a 7’6” Spin r
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There is no problem with extending a rod with an inserted piece of blank, it also may be easier to find an old blank that will fit inside the blank you have . Over sleeving would require stripping the rod down, a lot more work. Norm
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You are right, the guide placement software button does not mention NGC, it works well for most Fuji guides, except for KLH guides where it gives really strange results. I agree Anglers Resource should label that button better. The button below it is labeled KR GPS and is the one that should be used for KR (KLH) guide placement, and it works really well. Norm
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You were using the NGC GPS , and it does gives some really funky results when you input KLH guides. Jim Ising told once me not to use the NGC GPS when making a KR rod; not compatible. The KR GPS asks for rod length because it does increase the reduction train length on longer rods. It calculates the distance from the stripper to the tip top and places the choke guide from the stripper at a distan
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Castaway made the BB2 Big Show. It was a very popular flipping stick among Spouthern bass fisherman. Norm
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That is strange, which GPS did you use? Norm
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I agree with Herb the KR GPS does a very good job of getting you close, maybe just a little fine tuning. The NGC GPS is the one that gives people fits. What a lot of people do not understand about the KR concept is that it’s the height of the guides not the ring size that matters. So the KL-H guides feature a high frame with a smaller ring. Braid is soft and forgiving and passes easily through m
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It's not the way Norm does it, it the way it should be done according to the KR concept. If it is not set up properly then it is not a KR concept rod. The rod he listed is a medium light rod listed for up to 10# test line and up to a 1/4 oz lure at a list price of $550. F you are buying a KR rod then buy a KR rod. I did not invent the KR concept Fuji did, and in my opinion it is a great concept
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You are right it is not set up correctly for a 7’ ML KR rod. The entire reduction train should only be about 21”. The stripper would be at about 20” from the reel spool, and the choke guide would be at about 21” in front of the stripper, with the other two reduction guides spaced between them. So 15 1/4” is extreme for the distance from stripper to the second reduction guide, more like the di
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