Wooden reel seat, SK2 or skeleton reel seat with wooden insert. Use a hidden thread hood, either the KDPS or KSKSS/ASH hidden thread hood with an appropriate cork sleeve. These Fuji hidden thread hood will work with most size 16 threaded barrels. The reel seat you showed utilized a hidden thread hood with a cork sleeve and a wood insert between a skeleton seat. Norm
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I have an MHX 4 piece 9' 4wgt and like it very much. Have not tried the Quick Line. Norm
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I do it all also. Norm
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You are way over thinking this whole thing. CCS data is CCS data. You did CCS calculations on a finished rod, and will certainly have different CCS numbers than if you used a naked blank. The guides and wraps have a weight contribution. If fact, if you have two blanks which are supposedly the same you will probably get slightly different CCS number. There is some blank to blank variability, whic
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So if you take 2” off the tip of an 84” blank it is now 82” so you will change the CCS numbers, and slow the action. Norm
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IP is a direct measure of power, the greater the IP the more powerful the rod. Norm
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I think he has several candidates. Norm
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You can do a search on permaglosss, and you will get a ton of things to read. Basically, I use a round cosmetic sponge to apply permagloss. I use Kroger brand, but I am sure there are others that will work. I think Tom likes cheese cloth, and some like the foam from a foam paint brush. I pour a little into a small mixing cup about the size of a shot glass. Wearing a pair of nitrile gloves I let
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If one tried to describe a blank based solely CCS jargon to a fisherman his eyes would glaze over. You have to use subjective term when trying explain things to people who do not know the jargon. So subjective terms have value, and I think Dr Hanneman would agree because he used familiar subjective term to describe the CCS to us. Norm
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Gib Portwood, a member of rodboard, put to together a CCS work sheet about a year and a half ago. Mostly gives the Manufacturers’ number. Anyone can add data to this work sheet. I think it can be very helpful if more data gets added. Norm
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Very few if any manufacturer now give IP and AA numbers. NFC. Quickline, and Point Blanks use to give these number, but I don't think they are available on their websites anymore. MHX has CCS numbers for their flyrods, but not their other blanks. I guess I should do CCS numbers on all the blanks I build but I do not. A few years ago I was curious about the CCS numbers on a number of medium power
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There is no formula for IP, it is defined as the weight required to deflect a given blank 1/3 it's total length. It can be given in any weight unit you want, cents ( your 152), grams (your 380), grains ,oz, etc. Have a MHX EPS 81MXF in the shop that I thought might be OK, but had a higher IP than I thought, about 172¢ or 430gm. Nice blank though. Their EPS81MLXF might be right in your ball park
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Here are a few blanks that have similar IP and AA numbers to your rod. Rainshadow ETE S68M - IP 380 gm AA ~70+ Rod Geeks B470F - IP 380 gm AA ~70+ St Croix SCV 70MF - IP 400 gm AA ~70+ NFC SM MB662 - IP 380 gm AA 71 NFC HM MB662 - IP 386 gm AA 72 PacBay QLSJ 781 - IP 403 gm AA 73 Point Blank PB66LF. - IP410 gm. AA 74 Looks like the Rainshadow ETE S68M is your closest match to your rod.
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Yes Crystal Coat/Klass Kote can be used used a a rod finish if wiped on to give a very thin coat. I used Crystal coat many years ago to refinish some old rods and it worked quite well. Once Clemons folded I moved to Permagloss which does an excellent job if wiped on. Ralph Quinn has an article in the library and he gives his comment on the use of Permagloss, Crystal Coat, and others for refinishi
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When using weights other than cents, make sure you have an accurate scale to weigh the bag afterwards. The reason that cents are used is because they weigh exactly 2.5 grams each so you do not need a scale. Anything that supports your rod at the 10% point is fine. May need to shim the rod a little to get it level. Norm
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You do not need any thing fancy to get good common cents data. I think you are looking at a 6’ 9” (81””) rod, so you will determine the weight required to deflect that rod 1/3 its length or 27”. On a bench or table, support the rod so 8.1” (10% of length) of the butt is on the bench with the rest or the rod over hanging it. To support the butt, place an open book over the handle of the r
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Thanks Tom! Did not realize that Klass Kote is the same stuff as crystal coat. have thought about getting some for a while but never got around to it. May have to buy somee for old time sake. Norm.
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Yes, I liked crystal coat for clear coating blanks, it was very thin and light and you could apply it like Permagloss. Because it was so thin it took several coats for rod wraps, but at the time it was just about the only game in town. I would like to know it's repackaged name, if you remember. The freezer method also works with modern epoxies. On hot days I've used cold packs to extend the wor
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I remember that Dale Clemons suggested freezing your unused epoxy mix for later use. This was probably over 40 yrs ago. Norm
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The trouble with a masking tape arbor with an ECSM reel seat is that the ID of the back part of the reel seat is smaller than the front ID which is 16mm. So if you make a tape arbor to fit the front part of the reel seat you can not pass the back part over it. So the only options are to glue an arbor in the front part and the ream to fit, or ream an arbor to fit the blank and side it into place w
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The front part of the ECSM reel seat will accept a size 16 arbor. The back part of the reel seat is sized to fit the blank. I epoxy a polyurethane arbor in the front half of the reel seat, when cured ream the arbor to fit the blank and then epoxy in place on the blank. Norm
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I have no idea what you are talking about Phil! Fuji has done a lot of research concerning guide placement for both the NGC and the KR concept. In addition, there was a lot of research involved with the development of the microwave guide system. This research gave us starting points for placing guides on a particular rod blank. You should also realize that everytime someone places guides and twe
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I have not used, but have held both the Seaguide alien spinning and casting reel seats. They appear to be very good reel seats. They do require an insert, and I think both the Fuji and Seaguide inserts will work. Both Janns Netcraft and Anglers Workshop sell them. Norm
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If one is going to use heavy mono they should not be using the KR concept, which was designed for using microguides with braided line. Norm
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If you are going to do a KR concept rod then do it right! The KR concept is a microguide braid concept, and for most freshwater rods a KL25H stripper based reduction train is just too large. Like putting a size 40 stripper on a walleve rod, it will work but is totally unnecessary. A size 25 stripper would be used for large reels with heavy braid or mono. The Mudhole KLH kits are not put togethe
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I don't like the mudhole kits for KL-H guides. They do a terrible job of putting togethe a KL-H guide kit based on reel and line size. Rod length has nothing to do with the size guides needed for the reduction train. For your size 30 reel you would be better off with a reduction train consisting of KL20H, KL10H, and KL5.5M followed by size 5 KB/KT runners. The stripper would be placed 20" i
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Johnny Kuehn is usually very good at getting back to a customer. He has had some health issues over the past few years. I hope he is OK. Norm
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I like the Fuji VSS seat in a size 17 with a KDPS hidden thread hood. Can use it up or down locking. Can use either Fuji VSS cork or Winn grip handles. Norm
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Yes Norm
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Then do as Mark suggested and measure the rod via the Common Cents Sytem. If you measure it’s intrinsic power (IP) and action angle (AA), and post those numbers here, someone may be able to recommend a blank based on those numbers. There are a number of people on this site that do CCS numbers on the blanks they build. Otherwise we are all just guessing. Norm
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