After blowing thru a straw to get rid of bubbles when on the foil plate, I now do the same for the wraps with less fear of a mistake.
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The 84 is the inches (aka 7' blank) and the next number as you describe would be the power. Baston explained it best for my thick skull. I changed the wording a little in case an ambulance chaser is reading this. It is the power rating of a rod with -0- being the lightest and 9 being the heaviest (ultra-light to extra extra heavy). Power is how much pressure it takes to deflect a blank.
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Chris Richer Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I like to work with my hands, I like to fish, and > i like to learn. I could not explain it any better but I might list "I like to learn" first.
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Top left of screen left click on "CCS Database". Select Part 1. Goto page eight and scroll 3/4 of the way down and look at "Table C". Once you do your ccs homework go back online to find rods simular to yours and see what the line weight is recomended as per the weight measured by your homework.
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Hope I am not showing my rear end trying to help but is this the rod you talkin about: XF904-4 9FT 4PC 4WT 0.332Butt 4.0Tip ExtraFast 1.93oz
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Dave Gallenberger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I use the winding check calculator found here: > > c=11547 > Thank you.
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I can’t find it so I will try to explain correctly. Both sides of the wood are cut at 22.5?. When you put two pieces of wood together you form a 45? angle. 360? divided by 45? equals 8 pieces of wood to form a circle. Now measure your rod I assume (yes I have watched the odd couple) without reel for the width between the stripper guide and a parallel line from the widest part of your handle a
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I would like to make a suggestion if I may. I reviewed every thread in your twenty posts and did not see anytime you posted that you added a photo. Maybe a little advertising with a link to the picture here in the forum section about posting a picture in the gallery section accompanied with a little comment/story/lesson behind the picture would help.
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In Hawaii you have a STATE General Excise Tax. It is totally separate of Fed Tax. (Remember the double tax). Think of it as the upper 48 says Toe may toe and Hawaii says Toe ma toe. This tax completely ignores your FET. Think of the state telling you to "talk to the hand" when you say “FET” to them. A STATE tax is a STATE and has nothing to do with a FEDERAL tax. When you post
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It is a excise tax not sales tax. It is a cost of doing business you can pass on to the customer but is subject to sales tax. (Yes it is a double tax. Get used to it.) As a wholesaler you are selling product to reseller so no tax is collected since it is not a final sale of the product. In this case the retailer is paying for the excise tax (If you chose to do that.) with out knowing it is bu
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Thank you both guys, your answers tell me more than asked and is a good shot in the pants I am heading in the right direction.
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I have three rods under my belt, one microwave, one using 27X and one using GPS. I own and have read both Mr. K’s and Mr. C’s book several times before building and use them as a reference guide/reminder to make sure my memory is correct. Any monkey from NASA can accomplish this in my opinion and would like to take the next step to learning how to build a better rod. As a bank/surf fisherman c
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oops.
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My what long arms he has. I also, for a second, thought he was skitching a caboose with his fly line.
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I purchase Makoi nylon thread to match my St. Croix rod at this year’s expo in NC. I bought the M590 thread which was one shade darker and a good choice for my paranoia. But… if I could go back and do it again I would have picked their 5896 to match the rod.
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As a fairly new rod builder, for myself only, I feel you have made an intelligent move in getting the set up kit as your first purchase. Next thing is to read Tom K. book. Every Page of it. The book will explain that for the reel seat you can make arbors with masking tape of buy arbors from Mudhole that you can ream yourself just like the cork front & rear grip. The arbors you buy will fi
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I would like to second Joe Nicklo who suggested: Tiger Trout Burl
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I must disagree with the above. I feel you have gained a loyal customer who now knows you can be trusted to do right by him. He can't be the only fisherman he knows, plus being human he is gonna brag about the repair he made himself to others thanks to you. You passed on ten dollars today, but if you can't make that up several times in shear profit from your good business decision/investment,
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Kerry It is good that you did your homework on reading the 27X method. I hope you read both the New Guide Primer & New Guide Concept. Have you gone to the Fuji Anglers Resource yet? This site is invaluable in getting to know the alphabet soup of guides and info on guides. It will give you a summary of all the guides, there is a height list chart of their guides, a tutorial on reel measu
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Seems to me the GPS is telling you that the KL guides are the right ones with that reel. Maybe a 20, 12, 5.5?
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I bet the handle is reverse threaded.
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No matter which concept you use, it is a starting point / guideline to building the best rod you can. I tend to use "What do I think, what do I know and what can I prove" thru trial and error to find the answer. Only you can do that with your rod to find the answer. ;~)
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Jeremy Merkel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have read as a rule of thumb to put the stripper > guide 18" to 22" from the end of the reel spool > (correct me if I'm wrong). Yesterday I was using > the GPS software on anglers resource and noticed a > link to kr concept guide placement chart. In it, > the stripper guide was pl
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You could go to the hardware store and buy one of them hot water foam insulator tubes which are cheap and cut them down to different sizes an see what feels right to you.
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The measurements come from the Common Cents Info. Look to the left column here, it is the second item under sponsors.
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Peter I am glad you explained short leader. I don't know if it is just a Lung Eye Land thing or not but for most people who use a 11' pole (not a 9ft. rod) with a spinning reel usually only have a two to four ft. leader and fish with lures. Go to Montauk and try to fish with a conventional reel and bait and you will find yourself beaten and buried along the ocean pkwy. If you go American Ta
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I may be out of line here, but could you not explain to the world’s greatest sister that a custom build rod means it is built specifically to the fisherman. Examples would be arm length, belly girth, bait & wait, lures, line, preferred prey, experience and reel used. Then make up a computer generated gift card to give brother for the estimated amount. The lucky brother could pay for any up
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Mike Ortega Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Also, do the 4.5's require a forhan locking wrap? > Here is where I found the answer when I did not know. Thank you John Cates.
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Put braid on reel wet and pretty snug yourself, not with a machine. Spool should be under spooled not over. Suffix 832 is a limp braid unlike Berkley but try casting out onto a field and lightly spray some WD40 on the spool. Reel line in and lightly spray again. Do Not Drench it. 1/2oz lures or less may be too light for that particular rod. Always manually close bail to prevent line twist.
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Just finished my first build and now you tell me all I needed was a piece of straw slit lengthwise to tuck in the thread behind the micro guides! LOL. I agree with James, where were you last month! Might be a great way to line up the thread in front of the guide to. I got another one to go so thanks for the great demo and idea.
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