Hi Daniel, You can find a lot of opinions on this subject by doing a search on the board and looking in the FAQ and library. What works well for me is as follows: 1) I use Flex-Coat lite for the first coat applied with a brush ( I intend to try a spatula one of these days). 2) the second coat is Flex-Coat High build and I apply heavy on the butt wraps and or weaves while the rod is tur
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Thanks Bill, Will have to order one or two a month to get caught up!
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Acetone will not hurt the blank
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Hi Darren, Haven't tried that myself either but I recommend applying a coat of color preserver before applying the finnish just to be sure the finnish won't react with the paint. Good Luck,
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I completed watching Doc Ski's rod building video and recommend it highly to rod builders new and old! Something there for everyone!
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Hi Randy, I just built a spin/fly combo rod using a 4pc. 3-4wt. blank and the REC recoil spinning & snake guides. Weight was my biggest concern also for the build and I am not disappointed! I saw a couple of earlier posts where the post-ee was not happy with the REC recoils but I have had no problems. No vibration from them when the line is dry and no noise as discribed by the other bui
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Thanks Tom, BTW just subcribed to Rodmaker Mag. Can't wait to get my first issue. Should have done this months ago!
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Hi Steve, I have never tried to tint Flex-Coat yet but I know it's possible. Flex-Coat sells a package of their epoxy with glitter included but I am sure you could also buy some fine glitter elseware to add to the Flex-Coat you already have. Good Luck & Tight Lines!
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Tom, How long does it usually take to get my listing in the Directory after my info as been sent in? Thanks much,
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Regardless of the hows and whys? Would not an additional coat of epoxy to the effected areas fix the problem at least for a while?
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Arturo, I should think you will need about 9 or 10 guides but you will need to stress test . You will find clearer answers in the Library and FAQ sections of this board. Have Fun!!
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I failed to mention earlier that foam grips are easily reamed if the ID. is to small. Instructions for making reamers are located in the board library. (#6 from the bottom)
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Hi Gene, I have used most of the methods mentioned previously and find that not one method works best for all projects so try them ALL as well as trying "electrical heatshrink" tubing and or surgical tubing. Heat shrink is my favoite most of the time as it holds tight and secure! (no guide slipping!!) Have Fun!!
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Steve, I aggree with Tom. However, If you have a "special" handle on a rod that is no longer usable you can cut the blank where is exits the foregrip and A) slide a smaller dia. blank thru the old blank or B) carefully ream the old blank out. There are several ways to accomplish this and I bet other builders will chime in with a success story or two. Learning some of these techn
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David, 1) I don't think the EVA will strech enough but the Hypalon might. One way to install foam grips is to use air pressure. A gas station air hose works great if you do not have a compressor. Apply air and push down at the same time. If the fit is tight enough no glueing is needed. Glue will also act as a lubricant while wet and allow the grip to slide easier. 2) Rod bond is the first
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Larry, Try a white china marker. I have also used a "gold" fine tip sharpie on dark and light blanks. You can use a pencil eraser or the handle of most needle nose pliers to remove any unwanted or uncovered sharpie marks but a china marker is best.
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Ditto, Also, you could email me if you like.
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Hi Doc, The bottom one ( Blue ) shows the detail better. Both are SWEET though. Hope someday to due as well!
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Thanks Mo, I know fly line is classified by weight and has nothing to do with breaking strength. Dispite my use of terms you did figure out what I was looking for. Am I to assume that if a 5-6wt flyrod blank was built into a spinning or casting rod the completed rod would have a 4-10lb line-class? So, a 12wt. Flyrod blank could be rated at 20lb. ? Or there abouts? Instead of hammering you
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I am empressed with the CCS data site but I'm not familiar with the terms ERN, CC RATING, AA, CCF. Great info if I only understood it? What do you mean by Deflection? It's amazing how one could do something for so long and then find out just how much he doesn't know and has been missing!! This site is AWESOME! Also, looking forward to starting my subscription to Rod Maker Mag. and
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Mo, What is the average mono. line wt. of a 5-6wt. fly blank? I read another post on this subject and still confused?
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Hi Doug, Unfortunatly I don't have the chart you are seeking but maybe I can get you started. Because spacing charts are only guides and not writtin in stone just use your best judgement and then stress test. You may end up doing this several times before you get it "just right". I don't know what type of guides you are placing ( wire or ceramics or both) but it really does not
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Thanks Tom,
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Phil, Thanks for the photo info and good luck with the rod. I have candy red in "A" only otherwise I would be happy to rush some to you as this is an addiction I love to FEED!!
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Hi Phil, It appears that the center of the space between the guide feet is a point below the lower screw not the area between the screws of the rollers. All you need to do is push the guide toward tip just a tad to center it up. However, you are probobly going to have to re-wrap the over wrap at least on the butt side. Not a bad fix ! Quick and easy. If you leave the guide as is and do th
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My father in-law just gave me an old 3pc bait casting rod made by the Gephart Mfg. Co. I suspect it is a rare find and might be worth a pretty penny if were not in such very poor condition. My question is: Would a collector prefir the rod as is regardless of condition or would restoring it increase it's value? I know some collectibles are ruined if they are messed with while others don'
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Thank you all for the advice and encouragement ! I was pleasently surprised to see the replies to my rather lengthly post. This board is an awesome source of information, encouragement, and frank conversation! I hope I can do the same. Signed, Perfectionist (or not so! )LOL Raymond
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Finally, I have started building rods for sale to the public and I find myself stressing over every little imperfection I run across durring and after completion of a client's rod almost to the point of compulision. I still find it very gratifying when a client picks up their rod and is very happy and pays in full with no complaints but at times I stress really hard until I see that smile
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Thanks everyone for responding to Jim's post. I also don't use the hook keeper on my rods either but I have often asked my self the same questions about them that were discussed here. They do add a bit of "snap" to a well wrapped rod but I have often wondered if it was worth it putting one on. Customers do like them though!! Raymond
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Amen Ralph! I have built many rods and as perfect as would like to think I am this craft will humble me in a minute! Especially after I learn some thing new from this board and find "old habits are hard to break"! Tight Lines!! Raymond
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