Casey, Re-finnish with permagloss, you can tint it if you like. ( see FAQ and library ) Some builders have used permagloss for guide wraps but I have not. I like epoxy. You can mix & match products from different companys but it's easier to order everything you need from the same place. Good luck and wecome to the craft. Feel free to email for help.
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Erik, Now you did it ! I finally subscribed to Rodmaker almost 2 weeks ago and have been frothing with exitement waiting for my first issue! Just when I think I'm calming down I here about an article that makes me feel like a 10 yr. old at Christmas time! Be still my beating heart! LOL ! LOL ! Thanks Erik & Tight Wraps!
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Several of the sponcers on the left have looms in various sizes & pricing. Gonna have to get one myself!!
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Hi All, How does one price their workmanship? For example: adding exotic weaves like Mr. Tanaka's or Doc Ski's? Closed multi-colored 4 axis butt wrapps etc. I have found that if I priced according to the time put in the price would be very high indeed! Maybe I haven't learned to be fast enough yet. Rods that have cost me $100 to build, with modest embelishment I have been able to get $
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Sounds like another sufferer of the dreaded "A" disease. LOL Been there, done that! Good Luck
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I aggree with Mike about the reel seat. The titanium framed SIC guides are the lightest regardless of the maker. Very spendy though! I too like Batson Ent. and of course Fuji concept has always been hard to beat. Tight Lines !!
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Steven, The reason for boiling is to break down or soften the glue so as to remove the blank from the inside easier. Using to much ebow grease could damage the cork or foam sections.
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Hey Randy, Where do you get your rodbond? I have thought of trying it more than a few times. Thanks, P.S. @#$%&'in marbleing photos !!
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I use epoxy, just my preferance. Check the FAQ tab on this board as well as the library to get more complete info. Email me and I would be glad to help. Good Luck and have FUN !!
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Doc. Ski puts out a great video!
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A med/heavy blank, I would think would work the best for those requirements and one that I like is the RainShadow 1021. I do like Batson very much also!
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Just received a SPAM email from someone promoting Nanotechnology Health. Who would'a thought? LOL LOL LOL
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Ditto ! Contact Doc. Ski He will be happy to send you a list of patterns & prices. He has looms also!
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Haleluya! Tom,!! I don't mind marketing but I hate mumbo-jumbo & nul-speak, catch phrases & such!
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Ellis, Could you remind me where I put the lemons? LOL ! ! Loved your post ! After all we are only human !! I recently built a rod with a removable rear grip of cork and forgot to incert a piece of blank or dowel onto the cork and the first time I casted the rod I broke the cork just below the fighting-butt hardware OOOPS!!! We all contract the "A:" disease from time t
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Hi Bill, I would not use anything but clean water and maybe an old toothbrush to clean the guide threads or butt wrap. I believe curtin chemicals could repel the epoxy finnish. There should be no reason to clean the guide wraps unless there was an accident or something that caused them to get dirty in the first place. ( I had to learn the hard way to keep my hands off the threads once wr
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Twice the diameter is the norm I believe. You can search the archives here and get more opinions on this subject. Tight Lines!!
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Size? I assume you are asking about ID? I would say a 15mm would be what you are looking for. Good luck Rick and have fun!!
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I think I got the drift, but I for got what this thread is about?
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Hi Luis, An old barbeque rotisserie works very well too!
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What is the "A" disease? What are the symtoms?
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D.L. I suggest trying the sponcer links to the left. I am sure one of them will have what you are looking for. Yes, if you cut a longer blank down to the length you need you most certinly will change the action! ( removal from either end will slow the action ) Good Luck,
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Hi Tyer, I built a bait casting rod with a Pac Bay olive green 1024 blank. I used gold Fuji guides with metlic green over wraps and metalic gold trim bands. Looks AWESOME! Thread size "A". Your thread color should match or accsent the guides, and or handle set, reel saet etc. If you are using a wood handle for example you would choose a thread color like brown or red or tan to
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Hi Derek, I added a sewing machine motor to a wooden rod jig that my dad built for me. When I get my garage back ( I do my building in there ) as it is full of my house stuff ( carpet layers coming and they don't move furniture! ) I would be happy to email a photo or two. In the mean time, You might find a similar jig by doing a search on @#$%& for the "master thread wrapper". My D
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Lee, I understand that some pop-up filters will cause the problem you are having.
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Cliff, You are soooo correct about RBO! Thanks to Tom and everyone else on the board. I also have learned more about rod building in a few months than the 2 yrs. of building rods in the 80's. I had left the practise for a lot of years but thanks to some friends and RBO I'm back in the saddle again! HOOK, LINE, and SINKER !! Better than I was before! I thank Don Burgess in Washington for st
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Eijiro, You might want to just motorize your manuel jig and see if you like it or use the motor enough. A sewing machine motor and foot pedel works well and you can also buy power heads, & other power jig componants seperatly. I build mostly by hand but upgrading the wooden jig my Dad built for me saves me a lot of time for a lot of things. The $ spent was minimal and it has serve
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Thank You Very Much Cliff !! I just completed reading the thread you mentioned. ] One of the most informitive threads I've read! A MUST READ!! for every rod builder. Especially builders from the old school.
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Just go for it Al, If you have built a 20lb. rod you can build a 50lb. Espescially if you follow Ellis's advice. I used to use all "C" thread for the bigger rods I built in So. Cal. but found the "A" thread looks better and the over-wraps lay better. Larger thread wraps easier and smoother over smaller thread. I don't know if you underwrapped the lower classed rods but yo
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Gerry is correct about the price of the Rec guides. However, if weight is a big concern for the project in question the price is well worth it. If slick is what one is looking for, ceramics are the way to go.
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