Aftco ferrules and nuts will fit as will Alps, colors and patterns may differ on the collet nuts but Aftco's are close.
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We have a busy shop located in Newburyport Mass and are looking for Rod Building help, flexible hours , pay commensurate with experience, will train, work at the shop or we will set you up at your home. Please reply to this ad.
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Hi Joe I have built many shark rods and have gained a lot of experience doing so. The blank I would use is a Rainshadow solid F/G rated at 80-130# and cut so that the overall length is no more that 5'6", 5'4" is even better. Use a straight or curved, your preference, Alps Unibutt or go all out and use a Winthrop Terminator Butt which changes from straight to curved, its pricey but I've
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Hi Bruno I agree 100% it is more prevalent over the abalone that I use on the butt sections only, I learned the hard way not to use abalone under the guides, it was a nightmare for me and will never do it again. These cracks are also completely around the rod in one section between two guides, there are three different cracks in this one section. The rod is brand new and just sent out last week,
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Thanks Tom ,any recommendations on urethane, I see Aftcoat is a modified urethane
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I build primarily heavy offshore rods that are put through their paces with Giant Bluefin Tuna, I coat the entire blank with epoxy to protect the blank, every now and then the epoxy cracks completely around the blank almost in a perfect line. The epoxy I use is touted as extremely flexible and overall it works well, does anyone have any ideas as to what would cause this problem, I am awaiting the
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Hi Tom Did not know that, instructions aren't that good, my AT moved on its own cant believe this doesn't
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I just got a new Renzetti Lathe and have set it up, the thread carriage does not move up and down the rod as it should, it will wind about 1/2" and then back over itself, I ve loosened both the thread tension and the carriage tension with no change, any help would be appreciated
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Kevin, I'm not looking to point any fingers just trying to reach out and see if anyone else is having an issue, they are not PAC Bay
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Have any rod builders experienced or know of any #6 Curved Unibutts failing this season.Primarily these would have been fished out of the gunwale rather than a fighting chair.
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Whoa, perhaps too much pressure on the brush while applying the epoxy, just tried just letting it flow onto the blank as best I could and had NO Bubbles
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I appreciate all the advice, I typically brush the finish on , if I just let it come off as the rod spins I think the finish would start to set before I'm done, these rods are typically 7'0" and a beefy diameter . I've tried lite, heavy ,sable brush, throw away brush, no difference, I'm frustrated
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I continue to have problems with getting a good finish without having to go back and touch up spots again. At first I thought it was dirt or lint getting on the finish but after closer observation it is bubbles that won't go away with heat. I am using high build on heavy offshore rods, and have two different brands with same results. I clean my cups with DNA and the foil before use, I have a clea
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I was going through an old post about epoxies and someone commented that there was a way to stop checking at the guide feet on heavy rods, he did not tell how, can anyone give the answer?
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Now that Gudebrod is gone again can anyone recommend a good replacement, I have tried others but find them to be of poor quality with the thread actually tied in a knot to fit the spools in some instances. I like the 4 oz spools especially in black. Has anyone used Robinson Anton?
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I often epoxy the entire blank on most of my rods, after applying decals it sometimes makes sense to do so. I will say that most of my rods are heavy offshore rods where weight is not a factor. Anyway to the question, what is the best way to apply epoxy just past the guide and get a nice looking end of epoxy. I've tried masking tape but the epoxy seems to get under the tape causing a not so desir
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I am looking for hosels for big game rods, can't find them at any supplier but some custom builders use them, the type Penn has on their rods, anyone know where I can get them?
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I would like some advice on tip top gluing, for my spinning and lighter rods I use regular tip top adhesive, on my offshore rods I am using two part epoxy, the problem with the epoxy is that once its on and dry its on and sometimes customers change their mind or worse I mess up and I can't get the top off without ruining the blank. I would like to know what others are doing for the heavy tops, I'
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Are any of the finishing epoxies more flexible than others? Lately I have been having a problem with my stand up tuna rods that flex quite a bit, this is true using aluminum guides and stamped metal, once you start to flex the rod you can see a crack in the epoxy, customers don't want to see this and neither do I , any suggestions?
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Perhaps I didn 't give enough info, the grip is a foregrip mounted on a standup rod, it is somewhat triangular in shape and has "finger grooves" cut into it,as I stated there is a rod builder that has these grips but will not sell them to other rod builders
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Does anyone know where to get EVA shaped trigger grips to be used on offshore trolling rods? The one dealer that I know of will not sell them because they are exclusive to his rods, I have a customer that insists on these grips, any help would be appreciated
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I have a customer looking for 18" foregrips, does anyone know where I can get large ID ( at least 7/8" ) grips. I have 3/4" but the od of the butt is 1" , I can get them on but they look distorted from compressing.
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I have noticed that most bent butt trolling rods have the roller stripper guide anywhere from 28" to 32" from the center of the reel seat, I know that this guide should be placed far enough from the reel to not cause line wear, while this is a concern I am more concerned about the possibility of the line coming down on someones hand when the rod is under a heavy load when the guide is s
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I have read alot about Winthrop Tool Roller Guides all positive, I am starting to use Alps Roller Bearing Guides on my rods, does anyone have feedback onthese guides, i think Alps has very nice components and their roller bearing guides are not quite as expensive as Winthrop
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I would like some info on shop air cleaners, any users out there. Thanks Ed
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Since Gudebod went away for awhile I ran low on my supply so I like others searched for an alternate, I tried many different brands and was not satisfied. I have finally found a great thread and wish I used it before now, it is FishHawk, I use mostly metallics and this is by far the nicest thread to work with, no springing or twisting off the spool and it lays nice. Both my son and me agree that
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I would like to build a couple of kite rods, I would like suggestions on which blanks to use Thanks Ed
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Lately I have been having trouble getting Gudebrod thread from my suppliers, some seem to think they are not making the thread anymore, does anyone have any info. I use mostly metallics and need to find a good alternative.
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Hi Brett I too have had several problems with Lamiglas, not with finished rods but with blanks. I get the same feeling as you when I talk to them, "just send it back and we'll check it out" so now I have bought the blank or blanks, built the rods and spent alot of time and money, now I have to pay to send the blanks back, you are right they are top money and we should expect top qualit
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Hi Tom Got you now, we were talking two different thimg, I think!!, you are talking about the gimbal and i was talking about the ferrule, I'm using curved unibitts so it would be hard, I'll try a straight butt.
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